米歇爾奧巴馬的裙子 看似簡單卻意涵豐富

The first night of the DeMocratic National Convention on Monday was, rightly, not about the clothes: It was about trying to unify the party, rise above the opponent and so on, as many of my colleagues have described. Which is not to say it lacked a fashion statement or two.

民主黨全國代表大會週一召開的首晚，服裝沒有上議事日程，正該如此。大會是關於試圖建立黨內統一、超越對手等議題的，正如我的許多同事所描述的那樣。但這並不是說，大會上沒有發出一兩個時尚宣言。

The loudest may have come early in the evening, courtesy of a video starring the economist Austan Goolsbee and the actor Ken Jeong in which Mr. Goolsbee reveals to Mr. Jeong that most of the Donald Trump-branded clothing line is not Made in the U.S.A., but rather in Bangladesh, China, Mexico and other countries (facts that seem to undermine Mr. Trump’s assertion of America First but also seem to have had no impact on his supporters). But the most pointed came, not surprisingly, from Michelle Obama.

承蒙一個視頻，最響亮的宣言可能是當晚早些時候發出的，該視頻由經濟學教授奧斯坦·古爾斯比(Austan Goolsbee)和演員鄭肯(Ken Jeong)主演，古爾斯比在視頻中對鄭肯說，大部分唐納德·特朗普品牌的服裝不是美國製造，而是孟加拉國、中國、墨西哥和其他國家制造的（這些事實似乎有損特朗普的美國第一的說法，但似乎對他的支持者們沒有影響）。但最刻意的宣言來自米歇爾·奧巴馬(Michelle Obama)，這並不奇怪。

Not that you would have known it at first. Like her speech, in which she castigated Mr. Trump without ever saying his name, her dress spoke volumes while appearing, at first glance, to be entirely subdued.

這並不是說你會在一開始就注意到了。米歇爾·奧巴馬在演講中斥責了特朗普，但並沒有提他的名字，與她的演講一樣，她的着裝含義深刻，但初看起來，似乎一點特色也沒有。

Cobalt blue silk crepe, with cap sleeves, a flared skirt and a neat waist, it was by the designer Christian Siriano, and it pretty much matched the backdrop, playing down Mrs. Obama’s appearance and playing to the patriotic theme, especially when contrasted with the bright red jacket that Senator Elizabeth Warren of Massachusetts wore during her speech.

她的裙裝出自設計師克里斯蒂安·西里亞諾(Christian Siriano)之手，鈷藍色的絲綢縐紗、蓋肩的短袖、喇叭裙，以及緊湊的腰圍，顏色幾乎與背景相匹配，這使米歇爾的出場不那麼重要，迎合了愛國的主題，尤其是在與馬薩諸塞州參議員伊麗莎白·沃倫穿的鮮紅色外套相比之下。

But the simplicity and the color were just the beginning. See, Mr. Siriano is a former reality TV star — the only designer to really have emerged from the television show “Project Runway” (he won the fourth season competition) and carved out a place on the New York Fashion Week scene.

但是，簡單的設計和顏色的選擇僅僅是開始。要知道，西里亞諾是前真人秀明星，是從電視節目《天橋驕子》(Project Runway)（他在該節目的第四季中勝出）真正走出來的唯一設計師，並在紐約時裝週(New York Fashion Week)上謀得了一席之地。

But unlike another reality TV star, Mr. Siriano has built his career on being inclusive: on catering to women regardless of size or age.

但是，與其他真人秀明星不同，西里亞諾的職業生涯是建立在包容之上的：他爲不同年齡和身材的女性設計服裝。

Most recently, he was, for example, the designer who stepped forward (via Instagram) when Leslie Jones, the late-40-something six-foot-tall star of the movie remake “Ghostbusters,” complained that no designer wanted to dress her, making a custom off-the-shoulder red gown for her premiere that became something of an internet moment. He also has a collaboration with the plus-size store Lane Bryant, for which he held a runway show at the United Nations this year, and has dressed other celebrities, including Kate Hudson and Zendaya.

最近的一個例子是，當出演翻拍版的《捉鬼敢死隊》(Ghostbusters)的40好幾、身高1米8有餘的演員萊斯利·瓊斯(Leslie Jones)抱怨說，沒有願意爲她配置服裝的設計師時，西里亞諾（通過Instagram）挺身而出，爲她出席首映式定製了露肩紅色禮服，在互聯網上引起了一時的轟動。他還與大尺碼服裝店萊恩·布賴恩特(Lane Bryant)有合作，併爲這個合作今年在聯合國舉辦的一個時裝秀，他還爲凱特·哈德森(Kate Hudson)和贊達亞(Zendaya)等名人設計過服裝。

“I just don’t think anyone should be excluded from having a beautiful dress,” he said to me when we were talking about the Jones brouhaha, and why he had volunteered to play fairy godfather.

我們談起瓊斯的禮服引起的騷動、以及他爲什麼自告奮勇地擔當了童話救星時，他對我說，“我不只是認爲，任何人都不該被排除在能穿漂亮裙裝之外。”

Lest you think Mrs. Obama’s wardrobe choice was just happenstance, however, know that the convention appearance was only the second time she has worn Mr. Siriano; the first time was this month, at the funeral for the police officers killed in Dallas.

但是，免得你認爲奧巴馬伕人的着裝選擇只是偶然，你須知，她這次出席大會穿的只是她第二次穿西里亞諾的設計；第一次是在本月參加達拉斯被槍殺警察的葬禮時。

Throughout her time in the White House, the first lady has made something of a secondary cause out of supporting new, independent American designers, and choosing her clothes not only because she likes them but because their back story has a certain resonance that goes beyond the aesthetic. Monday night was no different. Fashion is not known for its embrace of togetherness (more for its exclusion). But Mr. Siriano is.

在白宮做第一夫人期間，奧巴馬伕人把支持新的、獨立的美國設計師差不多當成了一件次要事業來做，她選擇服裝不僅是因爲她喜歡它們，而是因爲其背後的故事有某種超出美感的共鳴。週一晚上的選擇也是如此。時裝不以其接受團結友愛而聞名（更多地是爲了排他）。但西里亞諾是例外。

Think that’s just a coincidence?

還認爲米歇爾的着裝選擇只是偶然嗎？