巴黎 如何用100美元游出1000美元的效果

As a concierge at the elegant Pavillon de la Reine hotel in Paris, Arnaud Ilisca dresses in tails. His manner is elegant yet personable; his advice comes in flawless English with just enough of a French accent to lend legitimacy. On any given day, he can arrange a private cruise on the Seine or land a difficult reservation at a three-star Michelin restaurant. In other words, he is the kind of person I never run into in my frugal travels.

阿諾·伊利斯卡(Arnaud Ilisca)是高雅的巴黎皇后亭酒店(Pavillon de la Reine)的禮賓員。他身穿燕尾服，舉止優雅，風度翩翩，以無可挑剔的英語向客人提供建議，只帶有一點可資證明權威性的法語口音。隨便哪一天，他都能給你安排塞納河上的私人遊覽，或者在米其林三星餐廳搞到難得的預訂。換句話說，他是我在窮遊旅行中永遠遇不到的那種人。

But there we sat, on a recent Thursday afternoon, in the Pavillon’s bar in a building off the Place des Vosges that was once a royal residence. Mr. Ilisca was formulating a perfect Paris day for a fictional well-heeled guest. Cost: about 1,000 euros (or a little more than $1,100). I was sipping espresso, taking notes for the task ahead — creating the most similar day I could for one-tenth of the price.

但是前不久的一個週四的下午，我們坐在皇后亭酒店的酒吧裏。該酒店位於孚日廣場(Place des Vosges)的一座建築之中，那裏曾是皇家宅邸。伊利斯卡在爲一位想象中的富有賓客設計完美的巴黎一日遊。費用約爲1000歐元（約合1100多美元）。我一邊喝着特濃咖啡，一邊爲自己的任務做筆記——我的任務是以十分之一的費用，設計出與他的規劃最接近的版本。

I commenced a deep dive into the online rabbit hole of Paris blogs and personal advice from Paris-based friends and colleagues (including Seth Sherwood and Pamela Druckerman, contributors to The New York Times, and Meg Zimbeck, the founder of the blog Paris by Mouth). I made one tweak to Mr. Ilisca’s itinerary: He had suggested an à la carte lunch and prix fixe dinner; I flipped those, since prix fixe lunch can be an excellent deal in Paris. And then I was off.

然後我開始深入研究網上數不勝數的巴黎博客，以及我在巴黎的朋友和同事們（包括《紐約時報》的撰稿人塞思·舍伍德[Seth Sherwood]和帕梅拉·德魯克曼[Pamela Druckerman]以及博客Paris by Mouth的創立者梅格·澤姆貝克[Meg Zimbeck]）的私人建議。我對伊利斯卡設計的行程做了一點修改：他的建議是午餐按菜單點菜，晚餐選擇固定價格套餐。我反了過來，因爲在巴黎，午餐時選擇固定價格套餐可能會很實惠。然後我就出發了。

Breakfast

早餐

High

富遊

The prix fixe petit déjeuner at Carette, a fancy patisserie with tables nestled beneath the arches that skirt the Place des Vosges, is 18.50 euros, or $20.64 at $1.12 to the euro.

高檔法式糕點店Carette的固定價格早餐套餐是18.50歐元，按照1歐元兌換1.12美元的價格計算，約合20.64美元。這家蛋糕店位於孚日廣場邊緣的拱門下，店裏有餐桌。

Low

窮遊

I traded in the regal Place des Vosges for a sidewalk table across from the leafy Square Trousseau, the perfect spot to watch the 12th Arrondissement awaken. I was at Blé Sucré, a patisserie with a deceptively everyday look; it is run by Fabrice Le Bourdat, the former pastry chef at Le Bristol, the three-star Michelin restaurant that is now called Epicure. Along with my espresso, I had a kouign-amann, a caramelized cross between a palmier and a croissant that comes from Bretagne and has been positively compared with the Cronut. Blé Sucré’s decadent version costs just 1.76 euros.

我把堂皇的孚日廣場換成了綠樹成蔭的特魯索廣場(Square Trousseau)。這裏是觀看第12區甦醒的絕佳地點。廣場對面的Blé Sucré糕點店其貌不揚，店主卻是米其林三星餐廳Le Bristol（現名Epicure）的前任糕點大廚法布里斯·勒·布爾達(Fabrice Le Bourdat)。除了特濃咖啡，我還點了焦糖味的kouign-amann，它來自布列塔尼，像是蝴蝶酥和羊角麪包的結合，經常被與羊角甜甜圈(Cronut)相提並論。Blé Sucré糕點店的這個低級版本的售價僅爲1.76歐元。

With an espresso, my breakfast was 3.26 euros, but I did miss the glass of fresh juice I knew was in the Carette prix fixe. Luckily, an elegantly dressed older woman eating alone at another table had been humoring my rusty French and directed me to the nearby Aligre Market, where the gorgeous produce made me wish for a kitchen. (I settled for an Instagram post.) A juicy orange was 65 cents.

加上特濃咖啡，我的早餐總價爲3.26歐元，不過我的確很想來一杯Carette糕點店固定價格套餐菜單上的鮮榨果汁（我知道它家的菜單上有這個）。幸運的是，在另一張桌子上單獨就餐的一位穿着優雅的老婦人顧念我法語生疏，把我引到了附近的Aligre市場(Aligre Market)，那裏超棒的農產品讓我有下廚的衝動（我在Instagram上發了張照片聊以慰藉）。我在那裏花65分買了一個多汁的橙子。

Shopping

購物

High

富遊

Mr. Ilisca sends guests to the haute couture shops of the famed Golden Triangle: Champs-Élysées, Avenue Montaigne and Avenue George V. Let’s grant our fictional fat cat 300 euros for something modest from Gucci or Prada.

伊利斯卡建議賓客們去著名的金三角(Golden Triangle)的高檔服裝店購物：香榭麗舍大街、蒙田大道和喬治五世大道。讓我們假定我們想象中的富翁花了300歐元從古馳(Gucci)或普拉達(Prada)買了一件普通的衣服。

Low

窮遊

My first thought was the gargantuan Les Puces flea market at faraway Porte de Clignancourt, but a great web page directed me to smaller, more occasional markets by arrondissement. (Find the list at ) In fact, my shopping started after I finished my Aligre Market orange, at the flea market adjacent to the produce stands. For 1 euro, I bought a yellowed 1951 issue of Temps Modernes, the journal edited by Jean-Paul Sartre. (It listed a piece called “Is God Photogenic?,” and I had to know. It turned out that the article was actually about the state of religious films at the time; the headline was clearly a clever ploy aimed at American tourists 64 years in the future.) Three markets later, at Village St.-Paul, I’d fall for a small, lovely powder-blue wall-mounted coat rack. I bargained it down to 22 euros from 28 by claiming to be a “pauvre Américain.” (They didn’t believe me, but it got the conversation started.)

我的第一個念頭是去偏遠、龐大的科里尼安古爾門(Porte de Clignancourt)跳蚤市場(Les Puces)，但是一個很棒的網頁按區列出了那些更小、更隨意的市場（你可以在找到這個列表）。實際上，我吃完在Aligre市場買的橙子就開始在旁邊的跳蚤市場購物了。我花一歐元買了1951年的一期泛黃的《新時代》(Temps Modernes)雜誌（這期上有篇文章題爲“上帝上相嗎？”我很想知道這個問題的答案。結果發現，那篇文章實際上是談論當時的宗教電影狀況；那個標題顯然是個聰明的計策，足以吸引64年後的美國遊客），編輯是讓-保羅·薩特(Jean-Paul Sartre)。逛完三個市場後，在聖保羅村(Village St.-Paul)，我看上了一個可愛的粉藍色小壁掛式衣帽架。我自稱“貧窮的美國人”（賣家不相信，不過這麼說算是起了個頭），把價錢從28歐元砍到了22歐元。

Lunch

午餐

High

富遊

L’Arpège has three Michelin stars and a No. 25 spot on Restaurant magazine’s world rankings. Its chef, Alain Passard, is famous for his farm-to-obsessed-chef-to-table ingredients, especially vegetables. Tasting menu (remember, this was supposed to be dinner): 340 euros.

L’Arpège是米其林三星餐廳，在《餐廳》雜誌(Restaurant)的世界餐廳排行榜上排名第25位。它的大廚阿蘭·帕薩爾(Alain Passard)以選用“從農場到癡迷大廚到餐桌”的食材而聞名，尤其是蔬菜。主廚精選菜單（注意，這個菜單本來是爲晚餐準備的）的價格是340歐元。

Low

窮遊

I tried, really I did, to find a reasonably priced prix fixe at a contemporary, cool and vegetarian-friendly spot. No luck — vegetarians, beware. But a blog post about farm-to-table spots I had found during a search for L’Arpège also raved about Le Timbre, where Charles Danet’s three-course lunch fit the bill, literally, for 26 euros. That’s in part because everyone eats the exact same thing in this pleasantly cramped space the size of a postage stamp, which is what “timbre” means.

我努力（我真的努力了）在一個現代時髦、適合素食者的餐廳尋找一個合理的固定價格套餐菜單。可惜我沒找到。素食主義者，要當心哦。不過，我在搜索L’Arpège餐廳時找到了一個關於“從農場到餐桌”的餐廳的博客帖子，它對Le Timbre餐廳也是讚美有加。該餐廳大廚查爾斯·達內(Charles Danet)的三道主菜午餐售價爲26歐元，剛好符合條件。其中一個原因是這裏的食客吃的東西是一模一樣的。這個溫馨的餐廳像郵票一樣小巧，timbre就是郵票的意思。

Seth joined me, and as the last lunch guests to arrive, we got a step-by-step preview of our meal from those seated (very) nearby. It turned out to be false advertising — the kitchen ran out of both the starter (hake) and the main course (duck filet). “On a mal compté le canard,” our very apologetic server said. But we enjoyed the cod starter substitute (as if I could tell the flaky, white difference), served with puréed celery root and lovage, and were impressed at how crunchy pine nuts and spicy bits of chorizo took to a moist cut of guinea fowl. When everyone started getting gorgeous dollops of chocolate mousse around us, I impishly asked, “On a mal compté le chocolat?” They had not. It was delicious. My share of the bill: 29 euros.

塞思和我一起去那裏用午餐。我們是午間的最後一批食客。我們一道菜一道菜地看了鄰座（真的跟我們緊挨着坐）的午餐，相當於預覽了自己的午餐。結果呢，看也是白看。開胃菜（鱈魚）和主菜（鴨肉片）都賣光了。“我們算錯了鴨肉的量，”服務員滿懷歉意地說。不過，我們很喜歡替換的開胃菜（好像我能辨別出這兩種薄薄的白魚片的區別似的），它配有芹菜根泥和拉維紀草。主菜換成了柔軟多汁的珍珠雞塊，它配上鬆脆的松仁和西班牙辣香腸塊，效果令人驚喜。當旁邊的顧客紛紛開始享用誘人的巧克力慕斯時，我頑皮地用法語問道，“巧克力沒算錯吧？”沒算錯。很好吃。我們均分賬單，我那部分是29歐元。

Afternoon Stroll

下午漫步

High

富遊

Mr. Ilisca’s guests often request a personal tour of the cobblestone streets of the shopping and art-packed Marais. Cost: 240 euros.

伊利斯卡的客人們通常要求在充滿商店和藝術畫廊的瑪萊區(Marais)的鵝卵石街道上來個私人嚮導遊覽。費用：240歐元。

Low

窮遊

There are reasonably priced walking tours of the Marais, but I opted out of being part of a group clogging its already tourist-packed streets. Instead, I simply downloaded a very helpful self-guided version at , and ended up at Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, a gorgeously bright space where I got absorbed in the dreamily textured works of the Spanish painter Miquel Barceló. Free.

瑪萊區有一些價格合理的步行旅遊團，但我決定不參團。那裏的街道本來就擠滿了遊客，那些旅遊團更是添堵。我在上下載了一個很有用的自助旅遊嚮導。最後來到華麗明亮的Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac畫廊，那裏正在展出西班牙畫家米克爾·巴爾塞洛(Miquel Barceló)的作品，我被它們夢幻般的質地迷住了。全部免費。

Dinner

晚餐

High

富遊

Mr. Ilisca recommended a meal of veal sweetbreads (52 euros) from Allard, a classic bistro owned by Alain Ducasse. Full meal, about 100 euros.

伊利斯卡推薦的是Allard餐館的牛羊雜碎（52歐元）。Allard是一家典型的法式小餐館，店主是阿蘭·迪卡斯(Alain Ducasse)。一頓豐盛的晚餐總共約需100歐元。

Low

窮遊

Seth may not wear tails, but he was right on in taking me to Le Bistrot du Peintre, near his home in the Bastille. If it hadn’t been around since 1902, I’d say the Art Nouveau décor was overdone. Everything is dreamily wavy, from the massive wood mirrors to the vines painted along the tops of the walls, even the precariously twisting stairs that lead to the kitchen. For dinner, we split a 17-euro bottle of fruity 2013 Gamay from the Loire Valley, and a very generous bone-marrow starter. To make up for my duck-less lunch, I had the duck breast, seared in an oil-free pan, baked and served with raspberry sauce; Seth had a tender braised paleron of beef, loaded with tomatoes and olives, Mediterranean style. My half of the bill was 32.50 euros.

塞思也許不穿燕尾服，但他的建議不遜於伊利斯卡。他把我帶到巴士底他家附近的Le Bistrot du Peintre餐館。要不是這家餐館始創於1902年，我會覺得這裏的新藝術裝潢太多了。所有的東西都充滿夢幻般的曲線，從巨大的木鏡子到牆頂繪製的葡萄藤，甚至包括通往廚房的扭曲搖晃的樓梯。我們分享了一瓶來自盧瓦爾河谷的2013年果味佳美葡萄酒（Gamay，17歐元）以及一份份量很大的骨髓開胃菜。爲了彌補中午沒吃上鴨肉的遺憾，我點了一份鴨胸肉，它是在沒抹油的煎鍋上煎出來的，配有樹莓醬。塞思點的是地中海風味的嫩燉牛排，裏面有很多番茄和橄欖。我那一半賬單的費用是32.50歐元。

Nightcap

睡前小酒

High

富遊

Where else would a concierge send a classy guy like our stand-in jet-setter but the Hôtel Costes, the ultrachic hotel lounge where a cocktail runs you north of 15 euros.

豪華酒店的禮賓員在給我們想象中的富豪推薦睡前小酒時，肯定會推薦Hôtel Costes。在這個超級時髦的酒店雅座酒吧裏，一杯雞尾酒的價格在15歐元以上。

Low

窮遊

Hotel + bar = cheap? In travel-writer math class, that’s what we call a false equation. So why does the lively young crowd at Hôtel du Nord pay just 5 euros to drink a glass of Bordeaux along the Canal St.-Martin? Answer: Because it’s not actually a hotel, but a restaurant named after a 1938 film. Did I mention the 5-euro wine?

酒店+酒吧=便宜？在旅遊作家的數學課上，這樣的等式是錯誤的。那麼，爲什麼北方旅館(Hôtel du Nord)活躍的年輕人們花五歐元就能在聖馬丁運河(Canal St.-Martin)邊上喝一杯波爾多葡萄酒？答案是：因爲北方旅館不是酒店，而是以1938年的一部電影命名的餐館。我剛纔說了嗎？那裏的一杯葡萄酒售價僅爲五歐元。