哪些中國美食堪稱世界非物質文化遺產

Chinese food- or at least some portion of it - may be soon joining the likes of kimchi and Mediterranean food on Unesco's list of intangible cultural heritage items.

中國美食，或者至少是其中一部分，可能將很快加入韓國泡菜和地中海食物的行列，進入聯合國教科文組織(Unesco)的非物質文化遺產名錄。

The Chinese Cuisine Association, which tried to get Chinese cuisine on the list in 2011 when it proposed More than 30 foods and food-preparation techniques, is making another go at getting Chinese food on the organization's list. But this time, they're making a more targeted recommendation.

中國烹飪協會在2011年就曾試圖讓中國美食加入非物質文化遺產名錄，並在當時申報了逾30種食物和烹飪技藝。如今，該協會再次作出嘗試，然而這一次，他們的推進更加具有針對性了。

'One thing is certain,' says Bian Jiang, the association's vice director. 'We're not going to get Chinese cuisine in general listed.'

該協會副會長邊疆稱，有一件事是確定的，那就是該協會將不再會把中國美食打包申請了。

The association tried that tactic in 2011, he says. But the attempt didn't even make it past Beijing's Ministry of Culture, which has to approve all Unesco bids.

他說，該協會在2011年曾嘗試過這一策略，但是甚至都沒有在中國文化部獲得通過。“申遺”均需要先獲得文化部的批准。

So this year, the association is putting together a panel of experts to narrow down the list.

所以今年，該協會召集了一個專家團隊來縮短名單。

'Chinese cuisine is so complicated and complex that it's hard for the Unesco officials to understand it as a whole,' Mr. Bian says. 'In the end, we will probably choose one specific food, like dumplings, or a kind of cuisine technique,' such as pickling, he says.

邊疆稱，中國美食體系龐大、複雜，Unesco官員把它作爲一個整體去理解是很難的。他說，最終他們可能將會挑選一種特色食品（例如餃子），或者一種烹飪技巧（例如醃製）。

The intangible cultural heritage list is Unesco's attempt to honor things like rituals and community-based activities, intended especially for cultures that may not have Machu Piccus or Parthenons. The intangibility, in turn, sometimes translates into something as tangible as food and its preparation. In 2013, both Koreas' kimjang - the making and sharing of kimchi - and the Mediterranean diet made the list. The Mediterranean diet, Unesco says, brings about moments 'of social exchange and communication, an affirmation and renewal of family, group, or community identity,' which might be translated into drinking wine at three-hour lunches.

Unesco設立非物質文化遺產名錄，目的在於對儀式和民俗文化表示敬重，尤其是對可能沒有馬丘比丘(Machu Piccus)或帕特農神廟(Parthenons)的文化。而非物質這個詞，有時候就可以解讀爲美食及其工藝這類的東西。在2013年，韓國的泡菜（既包括製作又包括分享）以及地中海餐飲都進入了該名錄。Unesco稱，地中海餐飲反映了社會交流和溝通，是對家庭、集體或者社區身份的一種確認和延續，這也許可以解讀爲在一頓吃了三個小時的午餐時喝酒。

So which Chinese foods should make the Unesco list? Opinions are nearly as diverse as Chinese cuisine itself.

那麼，哪些中華美食應該被列入Unesco文化遺產名錄呢？就像玲琅滿目的中華美食一樣，人們給出的答案也是五花八門。

Judith Farquhar, author of 'Appetites: Food and Sex in Post-Socialist China,' says she'd go for dumplings.

《饕餮之慾：當代中國的食與色》(Appetites: Food and Sex in Post-Socialist China)一書的作者馮珠娣(Judith Farquhar)說，她認爲餃子該上榜。

'They have a certain symbolic form, they have an inside and outside, and include meat and grain, the two fundamental divisions of food for Chinese cuisine,' she says. 'Dumplings have a social life - they're made in groups and eaten in groups.'

她說，餃子有特定的符號形式，有外表有內在，兼有肉和小麥這兩種中華美食的基本元素。餃子擁有社交生活，它們成羣做好，吃的時候也是成羣下肚。

Qu Hao, a Chinese chef who won the China Golden Chef Award given by The Chinese Cuisine Association, recommends braised sea cucumber with leeks because it 'enjoys a long history,' he says. 'Many famous Chinese chefs have contributed to the development of this dish, and it's now widely known by Chinese people, even though it is a Shandong specialty. '

曾被中國烹飪協會授予“中華金廚獎”榮譽稱號的屈浩推薦大蔥燒海蔘，理由是這道菜歷史悠久。他說，許多中國名廚爲這道菜的發展做出了貢獻，雖然這是一道山東名菜，但在國內家喻戶曉。

Tim Sedo, a history professor at Concordia University in Montreal who makes a YouTube cooking series with his wife, has a different idea: Hangzhou food.

康卡迪亞大學(Concordia University)歷史學教授塞多(Tim Sedo)給出了不同的答案：杭州菜。塞多和他的妻子製作烹飪系列視頻，並在YouTube上發佈。

To make a long story short, a famous Song dynasty hero named Yue Fei defended the country from northern invaders and became a folk hero and a symbol of loyalty. The story goes that he died in a Hangzhou prison - betrayed by his captors.

一些杭州菜具有歷史淵源，宋代名將岳飛英勇抵抗大金國的侵略，成爲名族英雄以及忠誠的象徵。但他遭人背叛，據說是在杭州的一個牢中被毒死的。

Hangzhou, in turn, 'has a lot of food that represents the people's hatred for these people,' he says, such as the fried bread, youtiao, which stands for 'the frying of the two characters' who betrayed Yue Fei, says Mr. Sedo.

塞多說，正因爲如此，在杭州有很多食物代表了對陷害岳飛的那些人的憎恨。例如油條，代表對陷害岳飛的兩個人物施以下油鍋的酷刑。

Mindi Schneider, a professor at the International Institute of Social Studies at the Hague in the Netherlands, goes one step further in her idea, recommending indigenous Chinese pig breeding - and the fatty pork that you get from it.

在位於海牙的國際社會科學研究所(ISS)擔任教授的謝敏儀(Mindi Schneider)提出了更進一步的想法，推薦中國本土生豬養殖技術以及所得到的高脂肪的豬肉。

'China is the actual home of the pig, which was domesticated there between 6,000 and 10,000 years ago. And each place has a local adapted pig breed. It's really diverse. You really need to preserve that indigenous livestock breed,' she says. Ms. Schneider published a four-page proposal for her idea.

她說，中國是飼養家豬的鼻祖，早在6,000至10,000年前就實現了家豬飼養。每個地方都有當地培育的生豬品種，各有不同。這些本土牲畜品種很有必要被保留下來。謝敏儀發表了一份四頁紙的報告來闡述其想法。

No surprise that Shi Xiusong, chef and general manager of Da Dong Roast Duck restaurant, recommends his restaurant's specialty dish as a combination of inheritance and innovation with a storied history. Meanwhile, Shu Qiao, editor of the Chinese Epicure magazine and an author of several books about food, recommends fermented tofu and Shaoxing wine.

大董烤鴨店的廚師兼總經理石秀鬆推薦自己餐廳的特色菜餚，稱其兼具傳奇歷史的繼承和創新。與此同時，中國雜誌《悅食Epicure》主編兼幾本美食書籍的作者 俏推薦了臭豆腐和紹興黃酒。

Unesco, for its part, has nothing to say about this stage of the process. 'We cannot speak about any specific possible nomination,' writes Frank Proschan, the Paris-based chief of the Programme Implementation Unit of the Intangible Cultural Heritage Section at Unesco.

Unesco未透露評選的進程。該機構非物質文化遺產名錄規劃實施部門主管Frank Proschan稱，他們不能談論任何特定的提名。

After the Chinese Cuisine Association picks its top choice, it goes to the Ministry of Culture in March. In June or July, the Ministry will make its application to Unesco, but the results won't appear until the following November, Mr. Bian says.

邊疆說，中國烹飪協會確定其首選提名後，將在明年3月申報至文化部。明年6月或7月，中國文化部將向Unesco申報，要到11月份纔會有結果。

China has had luck with other intangibles on the Unesco list: using the abacus for mathematical calculations (2013), shadow puppetry (2011), acupuncture and moxibustion (2010) and block printing (2009). Maybe someday dumplings or fatty pork will join the canon.

在Unesco非物質文化遺產名錄上，中國已取得的收穫包括：使用算盤進行數學教學(2013年)，皮影戲(2011年)，鍼灸艾灸療法(2010年)以及雕版印刷(2009年)。或許有一天餃子或高脂肪的豬肉也將上榜。