經濟發展考驗越南歷史古城保護

HUE, Vietnam — This is a city of edifices and their ghosts.

越南順化——這座城市關乎建築，以及與這些建築有關的魂靈。

Straddling the Perfume River in central Vietnam, Hue was the seat of the last imperial dynasty, and it has long been known for what the Nguyen emperors left behind: the imposing walled Citadel with its former palaces and pleasure gardens; the ornate royal tombs scattered across the verdant hills; and the wooden villas of their mandarins.

順化是最後一個王朝的都城所在之地，位於越南中部的香江從這裏橫穿而過。長期以來，它一直因爲阮氏王朝的遺蹟而聞名：圍牆環繞的皇城莊嚴肅穆，裏面是舊時的宮殿和宜人的花園；裝飾華麗的皇家陵墓散落在翠綠的山坡各處；還有不少阮朝官員的木質別墅。

These buildings have endured the infamous Hue weather — dank and misty and gray much of the year — and the brutality of modern armies. Some of the bloodiest urban combat the United States Marines have ever faced took place in the Citadel during the 1968 Tet offensive, a battle depicted in Stanley Kubrick’s “Full Metal Jacket.”

這些建築經受住了順化臭名昭著的天氣——在這裏，一年中的大部分時間都潮溼、霧氣縈繞、灰濛濛的。它們也經受了現代軍隊的暴行，美國海軍陸戰隊所面臨的一些最血腥的城市戰鬥，就在1968年的春節攻勢期間發生在皇城。斯坦利·庫布裏克(Stanley Kubrick)在《全金屬外殼》(Full Metal Jacket)中呈現了這場戰鬥。

The monuments have also withstood decades of rule by the Communist Party, despite being symbols of the feudal traditions the party was trying to exorcise from Vietnam.

這些具有歷史意義的建築物還經受住了共產黨數十年的統治，儘管它們代表着共產黨試圖從越南消除的封建傳統。

But what weather, war and ideology had not yet undone, a newer threat may: the economic boom that has been transforming the character of this central Vietnamese city of 340,000 people in recent years. Preservationists are struggling to ensure that officials, businesspeople and residents here properly protect Hue’s heritage.

但那些並未被天氣、戰爭和意識形態破壞的東西，可能會被一種新的威脅破壞。在這個位於越南中部，擁有34萬人口的城市，近些年來經濟的繁榮一直在改變城市的面貌。保育人士正艱難地確保當地官員、商人，以及居民保護順化的文化遺產。

A freeway now runs through hills facing the baroque tomb of Khai Dinh, a Nguyen emperor, compromising the tomb’s feng shui, or geomantic qualities. A tourist resort has been built along the Perfume, a languid, tree-lined waterway, and there is talk of apartment towers being erected within sight of the Citadel’s ramparts.

如今，一條高速公路貫穿阮朝皇帝啓定(Khai Dinh)巴洛克式皇陵對面的山丘，破壞了這座皇陵的風水。水流緩慢的香江沿岸綠樹成蔭，這裏出現了一座度假村，有人在談論要在離皇城城牆不遠的地方建造公寓大樓。

All the while, the city’s climate remains as persistent a threat as time.

這個城市的氣候也像時間一樣，一直是一個持久的威脅。

“The humidity makes it hard to restore,” said Truong Dinh Luat, 47, a Hue native, as he guided visitors around the Citadel on a recent morning. Bullet holes from 1968 still scarred some walls, and the rubble of fallen stonework lay in small piles in a few areas. “The workers have a tough job,” he said.

“潮溼的空氣使修復工作變得很困難，”47歲的當地居民張營律(Truong Dinh Luat)最近一天上午帶着遊客在皇城周圍參觀時說。他說，“工人們的工作很艱難。”一些牆壁上仍然能看到1968年留下的彈孔，一些地方還有倒塌石雕留下的成堆碎石。

William Logan, a scholar of heritage and conservation at Deakin University in Australia, sounded an alarm over the challenges to preservation last October at a conference on wooden architecture here. He said that Hue’s monuments were at risk of losing the World Heritage Site status bestowed by Unesco, the United Nations cultural agency.

澳大利亞迪肯大學(Deakin University)遺產及保護學者威廉·洛根(William Logan)去年10月在順化參加一場有關木質建築的會議時對保護工作面臨的挑戰提出了警告。他表示，順化的歷史遺蹟可能會失去聯合國教科文組織(Unesco)授予的世界文化遺產的稱號。

“If the province fails to monitor and better manage its preservation of the monuments, the entire complex’s overall value will certainly be hugely undermined,” Professor Logan said, according to a report by Tuoi Tre News, a Vietnamese state-run newspaper.

越南官方報紙《青年報》(Tuoi Tre News)報道稱，洛根表示，“如果該省沒能監督或更好地開展歷史遺蹟保護，整個遺蹟的總價值肯定會遭到極大程度的損害。”

Professor Logan expanded on his remarks in a telephone interview. “If the problems aren’t addressed, the World Heritage Committee can consider putting the property on the World Heritage Endangered List,” he said. “No country likes that. It’s a loss of face. It can impact negatively on tourism.”

洛根教授在一次電話採訪中進一步闡述了他的觀點，“如果問題得不到處理，世界遺產委員會將考慮把當地的古蹟列進瀕危世界遺產名錄”，他說，“那是任何一個國家都不想看到的。因爲這是丟面子的事情，會對旅遊業產生負面影響。”

“Heritage is fairly low down on the list for governments — they all want development,” he added. “It’s hard to convince governments they can have heritage and development at the same time.”

“文化遺產的問題對政府而言不是特別重要——他們都希望經濟得到發展，”他還說，“很難讓政府相信文物保護與經濟發展兩者之間並不相互衝突。”

Tourism in Hue got a boost in 1993 when the city’s major Sites were given World Heritage status. No other city in Vietnam is as boastful of this honor as Hue is. Signs outside the Citadel and the Nguyen royal tombs declare that last December, officials recognized the 30 millionth person to visit the city since the designation.

1993年，這個城市的主要景點被授予了世界遺產稱號，當地的旅遊業得到了飛速的發展。與越南其他城市相比，沒有哪一個城市比順化更加強調這一榮譽的。皇城和阮朝皇家陵墓外的告示牌上寫着，官方在去年12月宣佈，這座城市迎來了自獲得世界遺產稱號以來的第30億位遊客。

The Nguyen Dynasty made Hue its capital from 1802 to 1945. The Citadel was begun by one emperor, Gia Long, and completed 29 years later by his successor, Minh Mang, who was known in part for having had 142 children with scores of women. (Numbers vary, but some accounts say he had a total of 500 wives and concubines, kept in the Purple Forbidden City deep inside the Citadel.)

阮朝從1802年至1945年間將順化設立爲都城。皇城的建造始於嘉隆皇帝，在其繼任者明命皇帝在位時完工，歷時29年。明命帝的一個出名事蹟是和數十個女人（具體數字各方說法不一，也有說他在皇城深處的紫禁城內養着500名妻妾）生了142個子女。

In lanes near the Citadel are nha ruong — wooden garden homes that once housed mandarins and other personalities of note — and more modern villas built late in the imperial period. Though not recognized as World Heritage Sites, those houses have their proud residents.

皇城附近的街巷裏有nha ruong——一種木結構花園住宅，曾經是官吏和其他顯耀人士的宅邸——以及建造於帝國時代晚期的現代別墅。這些建築雖然沒有被確認爲世界遺產，但是住在裏面的居民以此爲傲。

“I still believe in the heritage of Hue,” said Hoang Xuan Bat, 83, as he sat in the dark living room of a European-style manor dating to 1910. “I respect its history, and want to tell foreigners about it when they visit, but I can’t speak English.”

“我對順化的文化遺產仍然有信心”，83歲的晃軒巴特(Hoang Xuan Bat)坐在一座建造於1910年的歐式莊園建築的黑暗客廳裏說。“我尊重它的歷史，並且把它介紹給來此參觀的外國人，但我不會說英語。”

When it rains in Hue, which is often, some of the challenges to conservation become obvious. One wet morning in a throne room of the Citadel, pools of water collected on the floor in front of the gold-painted throne. More pools could be seen along a wood-planked hallway.

雨水經常光顧順化，一些文物保護的難題開始凸顯。在一個下雨的早晨，皇城的一座大殿裏，刷着金漆的寶座前的地面上有幾處積水。鋪着木板的走廊上還有更多積水。

“Every time it rains, water comes down from the roof,” said Mr. Truong, the tour guide, whose father was a soldier for South Vietnam and was on home leave in Hue when the Tet offensive began. Mr. Truong said his father threw his uniform into the Perfume River to avoid repercussions as the North Vietnamese and Vietcong forces advanced, and then attached himself to the United States Marines as an interpreter when they arrived to retake the city.

“每次下雨時，都會有雨水從屋頂漏下來，”導遊張庭選說。他的父親曾是一名南越士兵，春節攻勢開始時正回到順化的家中休假，眼看北越和越共部隊節節推進，父親爲避免麻煩把軍服扔進香江，當美國海軍陸戰隊到達並奪回這座城市時，他做了一名隨軍翻譯。

Much of the Citadel was destroyed in the fighting, he said, but the former imperial library was not, so it was possible to restore it. Its interior has been given new wooden beams and doors, and construction workers were there during a recent visit, wearing masks and walking on a layer of sawdust.

他說皇城有相當一部分毀於戰火，但是前帝國圖書館卻得以倖免，因此這是有可能被恢復的。在他最近的一次遊覽中看到，建築內部已經重新安裝了新的木樑和門，一羣戴着口罩建築工人走在一層木頭碎屑上。

Professor Logan said he was concerned that property developers might gain permission to build high-rise towers around the Citadel and other sensitive sites. He said nothing should be built there that extends above the treetop canopy.

洛根教授說，他擔心的是房地產開發商有可能取得環繞皇宮和其他敏感位置建造高樓的許可。他說在那裏的建築不應該高於樹冠。

At the request of the World Heritage Committee, the Hue Monuments Conservation Center, a government organization, is drafting a plan to improve conservation of the sites. Phan Thanh Hai, director of the conservation center, said that “Hue history may be the most impressive” in all of Vietnam because Hue was once the home of “many skillful craftsmen, famous poets and intellectuals.”

在世界遺產委員會的要求之下，一家名爲順化古蹟保護中心(Hue Monuments Conservation Center)的政府機構正在起草一項計劃，旨在更好地保護古蹟。中心主任潘清海(Phan Thanh Hai)說，由於曾經生活着“許許多多的能工巧匠，著名詩人和知識分子”，順化也許是越南“最有歷史底蘊的城市”。

But he acknowledged that Hue’s monuments had suffered from “inappropriate management” around the historic sites, as well as “impacts from natural disaster, and from harmful insects, microorganisms as well as fungi on wooden components.”

但他也承認，順化歷史遺蹟周邊的古蹟遭受了“不恰當的管理”，此外還有“來自自然災害、有害昆蟲、微生物以及木構件上的真菌的不利影響”。

Professor Logan has suggested that Vietnam try to nominate Hue for Unesco designation as a Cultural Landscape that would make a whole stretch of the city a protected site. Ideally, he said, the area would include a green wedge of land running southwest from the Citadel as well as the Perfume and the mausoleums in the south.

洛根教授曾建議越南向聯合國教科文組織提名順化爲文化景觀(Cultural Landscape)，這將使受保護的範圍延伸至整個城市。在理想的情況下，他說，受保護的地區將會包括一塊西南走向的綠色楔形區域，從皇城開始，沿着香江達到位於南部的陵墓羣。

“It’s the river that binds all the serial sites together,” he said. “Bodies were taken up and down the river to be buried.”

“河流將這一系列古蹟聯繫在了一起，”他說，“皇帝的遺體葬在河的沿岸各處。”

Traditionally, an emperor who died would lie in state at the Citadel, and then would be carried by boat to a tomb that he would have had built during his lifetime. Some emperors even spent leisure time at the tombs they built, drinking wine and composing poetry. That was the case with Tu Duc, the fourth Nguyen emperor, whose tomb has a small lake with a wooden pavilion.

傳統上，逝世的皇帝將會先安置在皇城中供人瞻仰，然後用船運送至花費其一生時間所建造的陵墓。有的皇帝甚至會在爲自己建造的陵園裏度過其閒暇時間，在那裏飲酒作詩。阮朝第四位皇帝嗣德就是這樣，他的陵園裏有一個小湖和一座木亭。

Officials allowed a two-lane highway to be built toward Tu Duc’s tomb years ago, but construction was halted before it reached the mausoleum. The tomb remains intact, with a symbol made of glazed blue tiles on one wall that means “long life.”

幾年前官方批准了一條通往嗣德陵的雙車道高速公路，但是路還沒修到陵墓就停工了。陵園保存完好，其中一面牆上有用藍色瓷磚拼成的符號，寓意“長壽”。