跟着《廣告狂人》尋找紐約美酒
“Mad Men” ends its run on Sunday night, and a toast is definitely in order. Martinis and Manhattans are among the cocktails made for the occasion, New York City the optimal locale.
週日（5月17日——譯註）晚上，《廣告狂人》劇終。肯定得喝一杯以示慶祝。馬提尼雞尾酒和曼哈頓雞尾酒最適合這種場合，紐約市是最佳慶祝地點。
A “Mad Men” tour of New York might start with a martini at Sardi’s (featured in Season 2), either the Little Bar on the main floor or the larger bar on the second called Club Sardi, but open to all. Upstairs, you get a view outside of the marquees for “Matilda” and “Mamma Mia” on West 44th Street, and inside of a gallery of caricatures — Bob Hope! George Hamilton! Marlo Thomas! The bartenders, in burgundy Sardi’s jackets, are pleasant, and a martini with Stolichnaya is $14.15 (tax included).
紐約的《廣告狂人》之旅可以從薩迪餐廳(Sardi’s，它在第二季裏經常出現）的一杯馬提尼酒開始，不管是在主樓層的小酒吧(Little Bar)還是在二層對所有人開放的更大的薩迪酒吧(Club Sardi)。在樓上，窗外能看到西44街上《瑪蒂爾達》(Matilda)和《媽媽咪呀》(Mamma Mia)的招牌，室內能看到漫畫展覽——鮑勃·霍普(Bob Hope)！喬治·漢密爾頓(George Hamilton)！馬洛·托馬斯(Marlo Thomas)！酒保們身穿酒紅色薩迪酒吧上衣，很討人喜歡。一杯加有紅牌伏特加(Stolichnaya)的馬提尼雞尾酒的價格是14.15美元（含稅）。
Don Draper wasn’t seen having a drink at the Waldorf Astoria (featured in Season 3), but you can be, at Peacock Alley, which gives you a prime vantage point from which to take in the comings and goings in the hotel’s beautiful lobby (complete with the bronze clock made for the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair). Frank Caiafa, who is the bar czar here, says the 1860 Manhattan is the lounge’s second most popular drink (after the Peacock, a refresher with cranberry vodka and apricot brandy) and it’s an excellent one, with a single-barrel Four Roses bourbon and bitters made in-house ($22).
唐·德雷珀(Don Draper)沒在華爾道夫酒店（Waldorf Astoria，它在第三季裏經常出現）喝過酒，但是你可以。孔雀巷酒吧(Peacock Alley)是觀看酒店華麗大堂（包括爲1893年芝加哥世界博覽會製作的銅製鐘錶）來往人羣的絕佳地點。弗蘭克·卡亞法(Frank Caiafa)是酒吧主管。他說，1860年曼哈頓雞尾酒是這裏第二受歡迎的酒水（最受歡迎的是孔雀雞尾酒——加有越橘伏特加和杏子白蘭地的提神飲料）。這款酒非常不錯（22美元），加有四玫瑰(Four Roses)單桶波本威士忌和自制苦味酒。
Keens Steakhouse on West 36th Street (which dates from 1885) appeared in Season 3, and you can have a steak or chops in the splendid main dining room, but I usually settle into the more casual wood-paneled pub room for the terrific prime-rib hash ($17.50) and a rye Manhattan ($14) or a glass of red wine. The storied pipe collection is featured in both rooms.
西36街的基恩牛排館（Keens Steakhouse，始創於1885年）出現在第三季裏。你可以在華麗的主餐廳點一份牛排或肋排，但我通常是去更隨意的鑲木板的酒吧間，點一份極好的上等肋條肉碎（17.50美元）和一杯黑麥威士忌曼哈頓雞尾酒（14美元）或一杯紅酒。兩個房間都有歷史悠久的菸斗收藏品。
You can pick up the caricature crawl at Minetta Tavern on Macdougal Street in the West Village (Season 5), where the barroom displays rows of them, some by the noted artist Franz Kline. The line, “The steaks are supposed to be good here,” was heard in the episode, and it’s true; the very flavorful Tavern Steak ($28) with a pile of crisp fries is a deal. Solid cocktails here, including a Brooklyn ($16), a Manhattan variation made with rye, Amaro Lucano and maraschino liqueur. The dining room is more fun than the bar.
你可以在西村麥克杜格爾街(Macdougal Street)的密尼塔酒館（Minetta Tavern，出現在第五季）繼續漫畫之旅。這裏的酒吧間展示着一排排漫畫，有些出自著名藝術家弗朗茨·克萊恩(Franz Kline)之手。《廣告狂人》有一集裏有這樣一句臺詞：“據說這裏的牛排很好吃。”的確如此。非常美味的酒館牛排（Tavern Steak，28美元）加上一堆脆脆的薯條是不錯的選擇。這裏的雞尾酒也很棒，包括布魯克林雞尾酒（16美元），它是曼哈頓雞尾酒的一個變種，是用黑麥、Amaro Lucano烈酒和黑櫻桃酒調製的。餐廳比酒吧更有趣。
P.J. Clarke’s on Third Avenue (at 55th Street) was in an episode in Season 1 — Peggy did the Twist here. It’s still a party after more than a century in business (born 1884). The Supremes’ “Stop! In the Name of Love” was on the sound system when I walked in the other night. (First “Mad Men” signifier: A woman at the bar had a canvas tote bag that read “Life Imitates Ads.” Second: I got a perch under an old print ad for Utica Club, headlined “Our Beer Is 50 Years Behind the Times.”) And a few minutes later the personable bartender George Arnioitis — one of his tattoos reads Each Day Is a Gift — was singing along with Al Green’s “Let’s Stay Together.” No Twists, but it was early.
第三大道（第55街）上的PJ克拉克酒吧(P.J. Clarke’s)在第一季的某一集裏出現過——佩姬(Peggy)在這裏跳過扭擺舞。在經營了一個多世紀之後（始創於1884年），這裏仍是歡聚之地。前不久的一個晚上，我走進酒吧時，音響里正在播放至上女聲組合(The Supremes)的《住手！以愛之名》(Stop! In the Name of Love)。（我在這裏看到兩幕極具《廣告狂人》特色的景象。第一幕是酒吧裏的一個女人拿着一個大帆布手提包，包上印着“生活模仿廣告”。第二幕是我的座位在一個宣傳Utica Club啤酒的老式平面廣告下面，標題是“我們的啤酒落後於時代50年”。）幾分鐘後，風度翩翩的酒保喬治·阿尼奧提斯(George Arnioitis)——他身上的一處紋身寫着“每一天都是禮物”(Each Day Is a Gift)——跟着阿爾·格林(Al Green)的《讓我們在一起》(Let’s Stay Together)唱起來。沒有扭擺舞，但時間還早。
The hamburgers are good (the Clarke Burger with cheese is $12.50), the drinks well-made (the bright Sidecar includes Hennessy Cognac and Giffard cura愀漀, and a sugar rim; price $15). The Sidecar is also the name of an inviting P.J. Clarke’s establishment around the corner on 55th. A manager at Clarke’s told me to walk two doors down, ring the bell and wait for the buzzer to let me up to the second floor. I stood there for several long minutes until I realized the door was unlocked. Do not let this happen to you.
PJ克拉克酒吧的漢堡很棒（克拉克奶酪漢堡[Clarke Burger]的價格是12.50美元），酒水也調製得很好（明亮的邊車雞尾酒[Sidecar]含有軒尼詩白蘭地[Hennessy Cognac]和吉法德庫拉索酒[Giffard cura愀漀崀，杯口邊緣抹了一圈糖，價格是15美元）。這家酒吧在第55街轉角處還有一個誘人的所在，名字也叫邊車(Sidecar)。酒吧經理讓我走過兩個門，按門鈴，聽到提示音後上二樓。我站在那裏等了漫長的幾分鐘後才反應過來門沒鎖。不要再讓這樣的事情發生在你身上。
One of the many pleasures of “Mad Men” is wondering where Don, Pete, Joan, Peggy and Roger might drink now (midway through a Manhattan, that list can be more expansive): It’s easy to see any and all at the Pegu Club on West Houston Street, having a signature Pegu Club cocktail (London dry gin, bitters, orange cura愀漀, fresh lime juice; $13) and letting the Frank Sinatra-Harry James recording of “Castle Rock” kick off the evening.
《廣告狂人》的諸多樂趣之一是想象唐、皮特(Pete)、瓊(Joan)、佩姬和羅傑(Roger)現在可能在哪裏喝酒（一邊喝着曼哈頓雞尾酒一邊想的話，那份名單可能會更長）。很自然會想到西休斯頓街的勃固俱樂部(Pegu Club)。在這裏喝一杯標誌性的勃固俱樂部雞尾酒（含有倫敦幹杜松子酒、苦味酒、庫拉索橙酒和鮮酸橙汁；13美元），讓弗蘭克·辛納屈(Frank Sinatra)和哈利·詹姆斯(Harry James)合唱的《城堡石》(Castle Rock)開啓這個夜晚。
Much of the advertising business has moved downtown so a drink at the airy Crosby Bar at the Crosby Street Hotel in SoHo may be in order: a finale on a recent night was the Charles Bronson ($18.50): Bulleit bourbon, sweet vermouth, yellow Chartreuse, Punt e Mes. Bronson movie it could evoke: “The Great Escape.”
絕大多數的廣告公司都搬到了下城，所以在SoHo區的克羅斯比街酒店(Crosby Street Hotel)寬敞的克羅斯比酒吧(Crosby Bar)喝一杯似乎也在情理之中：前不久的一個晚上，我最後喝的是查爾斯·布朗森雞尾酒（Charles Bronson，18.50美元），它含有布萊特波本威士忌(Bulleit bourbon)、甜味美思酒、黃色察吐士酒(Chartreuse)和潘脫米味美思酒(Punt e Mes)，讓我想起了布朗森的電影《大逃亡》(The Great Escape)。
The East Village would be a draw now, with the cocktail den Amor y Amargo on East Sixth a likely destination (three cocktails are showcased here: Manhattans, Old-Fashioneds and Negronis). It’s pretty easy to imagine a scene at the Campbell Apartment tucked into a corner of Grand Central Terminal, or, after a meeting at Google on Ninth Avenue, a drink at the elegant bar at Del Posto a block away (the barrel-aged Negronis are standouts; $17).
如今，東村也是一個好酒的好地方，東六街的Amor y Amargo雞尾酒酒吧可能是個理想的地點（這裏展示三種雞尾酒：曼哈頓雞尾酒、老式經典雞尾酒[Old-Fashioneds]和內格羅尼雞尾酒[Negronis]）。你還很容易想到在中央車站(Grand Central Terminal)角落裏的坎貝爾公寓酒吧(Campbell Apartment)喝一杯，或者在第九大道的谷歌辦公室開完會後在一個街區外優雅的Del Posto酒吧喝一杯（那裏的桶裝陳釀內格羅尼雞尾酒獨具特色；17美元一杯）。
And although “21” has not appeared in “Mad Men,” it fits. On a recent Friday night Tony Bennett’s “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” was followed by Sinatra’s “Chicago,” a proper soundtrack for a properly made Manhattan (with Whistle Pig rye; $22) by the bartender Mark Tubridy. It was so good I stayed for another, this one made by Tara Wright after Mr. Tubridy had departed. She decided to one-up him with the addition of a burnt orange peel, which required her applying lighter to citrus.
雖然21酒吧沒在《廣告狂人》中出現過，但它很適合那部電視劇。前不久一個週五的晚上，這裏播放着託尼·貝內特(Tony Bennett)的《情留舊金山》(I Left My Heart in San Francisco)，之後是辛納屈的《芝加哥》(Chicago)。這些歌曲與酒保馬克·託布里迪(Mark Tubridy)調製得當的曼哈頓雞尾酒（含有Whistle Pig黑麥威士忌，22美元）相得益彰。它太好喝了，所以我又要了一杯。這杯是塔拉·賴特(Tara Wright)調製的，因爲託布里迪已經離開了。賴特想更勝一籌，決定加點焦橙皮，這需要她用打火機燒橙子。
“A little bit of drama,” she said, which was sufficiently “Mad Men” for me.
“來點戲劇效果，”她說。在我看來，這很有《廣告狂人》的感覺。
