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日本精品服飾店出售“原味”牛仔褲

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有部電影叫《牛仔褲的夏天》,我們今天要說的則是“牛仔褲的春夏秋冬”。日本一家精品店專門收購二手牛仔褲,而且是要幾乎天天穿,穿上至少一整年的牛仔褲。被同一個人穿着走過春夏秋冬,必然會留下那個人的專屬印記,因此每一條這樣的牛仔褲都是獨一無二的。

The Onomichi Denim Project, a chic boutique in Onomichi, Japan’s Hiroshima Prefecture, is a popular destination for denim enthusiasts looking for a pair of truly special jeans. The shop is well-known around Japan and even abroad for selling premium jeans that have been worn by select members of the local community for at least one year.
“尾道丹寧計劃”精品服飾店位於日本廣島縣,是丹寧愛好者們尋找別緻牛仔褲的“聖地”。這家店鋪名揚日本甚至海外,其特色卻是售賣當地民衆穿過一年以上的舊牛仔褲。

Selling used jeans, or any other type of clothing for that matter, is not exactly a new business model, but Onomichi Denim Project is not your average second-hand denim retailer. Created in 2013, as a collaborative effort between local designer Yoshiyuki Hayashi, textile expert Yukinobu Danjo, and Discoverlink Setouchi, an organization that aims to supports local industry, the minimalist boutique aims to draw attention to the city’s top-quality craftsmanship and its people in a unique way. Plus, while used denim is generally sold at a discount, these particular jeans actually get about twice as expensive after being worn by somebody almost daily, for at least a year.
嚴格意義上說,出售二手牛仔褲或者其他種類的服飾並非某種新興商業模式,但“尾道丹寧計劃”也絕非你心中普通的二手牛仔褲零售店。該店創立於2013年,由本土設計師Yoshiyuki Hayashi、紡織專家Yukinobu Danjo和致力於支持本地產業的Discoverlink Setouchi機構聯手打造。這家極簡主義精品店力求以獨特的方式吸引外界關注本市的頂級工藝和匠人。除此之外,儘管二手牛仔褲一般都是打折出售,但這家店裏被別人天天穿了至少一整年的舊褲子售價卻是原價的兩倍。

日本精品服飾店出售“原味”牛仔褲

Denim aficionados know that jeans usually require breaking to look their best, but there’s an art to how to wear, wash and dry them to achieve that desired look. That’s what makes Onomichi Denim Project so special – they hand-pick the wearers from the local community and closely monitor their transformation over the course of one year. Wearers rotate through two pairs of jeans that they promise to wear almost every day for the entire period, and bring them to the shop every week, to be laundered at a special denim processing facility, which ensures that every pair retains the evidence of each wearer’s life and work.
丹寧愛好者們都知道歷經滄桑的牛仔褲穿起來最好看,但爲了達到理想的穿着效果,牛仔褲的穿着、洗滌、烘乾其實自有一套門路。正是因爲這樣,“尾道丹寧計劃”才如此別具一格——工作人員在當地各個社區親自挑選褲子的穿着者,一年中密切監測牛仔褲的變化。選中的人們各有兩條牛仔褲輪流換穿,還要承諾一年內幾乎每天都穿牛仔褲,他們要每週把褲子帶去店裏,送去一家特殊的牛仔布加工廠進行清洗,以保存每條褲子上穿着者的生活和工作痕跡。

Meridian Magazine reports that Onomichi Denim Project recruits wearers from various walks of life to achieve various patterns. For example, a pair of jeans worn by a fisherman has faded lines left by knee-high rubber boots, a factory worker’s will feature the marks of a year’s worth of iron powder penetrating the fabric, while a wild boar hunter’s jeans will have permanent traces of blood. Every pair is obviously unique.
據《子午線》雜誌報道,此店僱傭來自社會各界的人士,以創造多種多樣的圖案。例如,漁民穿過的牛仔褲上有高筒膠鞋留下的褪色線條,工廠工人穿過的褲子上可以看到一年裏鐵粉浸入織物的印記,而野豬獵手穿過的褲子上沾有洗不掉的血跡。顯而易見,每條褲子都是獨一無二的。

But getting people to agree to wearing one or two pairs of jeans for an entire year was tough, in the beginning. Some were intrigued by the idea but were reluctant to wear jeans almost exclusively, especially in the hot summer months, while others simply wondered who in their right mind would want to buy used jeans at premium prices. But soon a local architect jumped at the opportunity, thinking it would be fun, and others joined the program as well, to help boost their city’s travel industry.
但是,起初說服人們把一兩條褲子穿一整年可不是什麼容易的事。一些人對這個點子很感興趣卻不願意整天只穿牛仔褲,尤其是在炎熱的夏季,另一些人卻懷疑正常人誰會願意付高價買這些二手牛仔褲。但不久後,這個計劃就得到了一名本地建築師的賞識,覺得這很有趣,其他人也加入其中,爲刺激本市旅遊業發展獻力。

When the pre-wearing period ends, each pair of jeans is washed according to color, hang-dried or tumbled, checked for individuality, tagged with detailed descriptions and put on sale at the minimalist Onomichi Denim Project boutique for anywhere between ¥25,000 ($215) and ¥48,000 ($415). That’s about twice as they usually cost when new, but these are not just any jeans, they are cultural artifacts.
在穿着時段結束後,每條牛仔褲都會按顏色洗滌、風乾或甩幹,工作人員會檢查每條褲子的獨特品質,打上寫有詳細描述的標籤,放在“尾道丹寧計劃”精品店內出售,售價爲2萬5千日元(215美元)到4萬8千日元(415美元)不等。雖然價格是原價的兩倍,但這些二手牛仔褲可不是一般的褲子,而是文化手工藝品。

It’s not clear whether some of the proceeds from the sales go to wearers, but most of them are just happy to not have to spend money on jeans for a year.
該店賣出的利潤是否會分給穿着者尚不可知,但至少他們中的大部分人都爲一整年不用花錢買牛仔褲而感到開心。