歐羅巴十二寶之佛羅倫薩的絲綢

For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在歐洲版10月19日旅遊板塊，作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶，下面，我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設計，逐一欣賞吧。

Florence: Silk

佛羅倫薩的絲綢

Down a quiet lane in the San Frediano district of Florence, beyond an iron gate and leafy courtyard, is Antico Setificio Fiorentino, the sole remaining artisan silk workshop in the city. Since moving to this location (Via Lorenzo Bartolini 4) in 1786, the small factory has maintained uninterrupted production, despite wars and floods. The art of silk-making in Florence flourished in the Renaissance, when noble families amassed fortunes and fame by producing exquisite silks. That tradition endures at Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where silks are woven by hand on antique looms using Renaissance patterns.

沿着佛羅倫薩聖弗雷迪亞諾一條寂靜的小巷走下去，走過一道鐵門和樹影婆娑的庭院，就是佛羅倫薩古絲綢鋪(Antico Setificio Fiorentino)，整個城市碩果僅存的一座手工絲綢工作坊。1786年，這座小廠搬到了目前的店址（洛倫佐巴爾托裏尼大街4號），從此一直在無休止地生產絲綢，哪怕戰爭與洪水也不曾讓它停工。佛羅倫薩的絲綢製造工藝在文藝復興時期鼎盛一時，憑藉製造精美的絲綢，若干尊貴的家族積累起了財富和聲名。憑藉這一傳統，該店一直持續至今，古董織布機手工織成的絲綢使用的依然是文藝復興時期的圖案。

During a recent tour, the designer Maurizio Bonas rattled off the illustrious names of historic Florentine clans — Corsini, Pucci, Strozzi — whose signature patterns are still being produced. “When you go inside many historical houses in Italy, it’s Antico Setificio that did them,” said Mr. Bonas, who noted that the factory’s silks also adorn rooms in the Vatican, the Palazzo Vecchio and the Tribuna degli Uffizi in Florence, and even in the Kremlin in Moscow.

在最近的一次遊覽中，設計師莫里芝奧·博納斯(Maurizio Bonas)如數家珍地說起佛羅倫薩藝術史上那些響噹噹的名字——科爾西尼(Corsini)、浦西(Pucci)、斯特羅奇(Strozzi)，其中斯特羅奇的簽名圖案仍然在生產。“當你走進意大利很多歷史遺址，你們發現是古絲綢鋪塑造了它們的美麗。”博納斯先生說。他強調，該廠的絲綢產品也裝飾了梵蒂岡、佛羅倫薩美第奇家族的舊宮、烏菲齊美術館的講壇宮，甚至莫斯科的克里姆林宮。

“To make these kinds of fabric, we cannot use the modern machines,” Mr. Bonas said, pulling out a roll of sumptuous blue embroidered silk velvet made with 350,000 stitches per meter. One worker who was weaving a cream-colored damask from a design named for the Renaissance painter Pinturicchio could be expected to complete only 80 to 100 centimeters of the fabric per day. And because the small factory employs only 20 artisans, production is predictably limited — and costly. In the adjoining showroom, walls are lined with bolts of silk, from plush velvets and intricate damasks to diaphanous taffetas, 110 to 1,360 euros (about $135 to $1,670) per meter. Decorative pillows are adorned with hand-woven trims. And, on a table, a basket is filled with sachets made of Ermisino, a shimmering silk taffeta that dates back 500 years. Inside each is potpourri from Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a 400-year-old pharmacy that has partnered with Antico Setificio for, as Mr. Bonas said, “only 250 years.”

“製造這些織物，我們不使用現代機器。”博納斯說着，拉出一匹華麗的藍色刺繡絲綢天鵝絨，每米要用35萬針才能織成。有一種奶油色的緞子得名於文藝復興時期的畫家平圖裏喬(Pinturicchio)，一名工人一天只能織出80至100釐米。由於這家小廠只僱傭了20名手工藝人，可以想見產量十分有限——也非常貴。隔壁的展覽廳內，四壁掛着一匹匹的絲綢，有奢華的天鵝絨、精美的錦緞和嬌貴的縐絲，每米售價110歐元至1360歐元（合135美元至1670美元）。裝飾枕上綴着手工編織的流蘇，一張桌子上擺着個籃子，裏面裝滿了香囊，是用一種名叫艾莫西諾的有五百年曆史的閃亮絲綢做成的，售價110至1360歐元（約合135至1670美元）。香囊裏裝的是聖瑪利亞香草藥房Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella）供應的各種香花粉末，這家藥房已有400年曆史，但博納斯先生說的，“雙方的合作僅有250年。”

A more recent partnership with the Stefano Ricci luxury men’s wear label, which acquired Antico Setificio in 2010, means the designer’s nearby store now stocks wearable wares made with Antico Setificio’s fine silk. INGRID K. WILLIAMS

最近的合作是與豪華男裝品牌史蒂芬勞·尼治(Stefano Ricci)。2010年，它收購了古絲綢鋪，這意味着附近該品牌店內的領帶是用古絲綢鋪的精美絲綢製造而成的。英格麗德·威廉姆斯(INGRID K. WILLIAMS)供稿。