歐羅巴十二寶之柏林的街頭藝術

For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在歐洲版10月19日旅遊板塊，作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶，下面，我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設計，逐一欣賞吧。

Berlin: Street Art

柏林的街頭藝術

Despite relentless hypergentrification, Berlin remains a bastion of street art. Elaborate murals still decorate firewalls; images by sprayers and stencilers pop up everywhere else. But how can the visiting aficionado take street art home? The answer is easy, if counterintuitive: get off the streets. The number of galleries selling urban art keeps growing: Neurotitan, a sprawling space in a scruffy complex in the central district of Berlin-Mitte, has shown urban art since 1996; newer on the scene is Urban Spree, a high-energy gallery in a postindustrial complex near the Spree River, which also hosts art events. So does Open Walls Gallery in Stattbad Wedding, a defunct swimming pool repurposed as a nightclub and cultural center in the blue-collar district of Wedding.

儘管無情的階層分化仍在進行，柏林依然是街頭藝術的堡壘。壁爐邊的牆上掛着精美的壁畫，城市裏噴筆畫和版畫比比皆是。但是，熱愛藝術的遊客怎樣才能把街頭藝術品帶回家呢？答案很簡單，只是略有些反直覺——離開街頭。出售都市藝術品的畫廊越來越多了，比如神經巨人(Neurotitan)畫廊，這家寬敞的店鋪位於柏林米特中心區一片蓬亂的小區內，從1996年起就開始展覽都市藝術品。想看更前衛的景觀，就去都市狂歡(Urban Spree)畫廊，這個高能量藝術館位於斯普利河附近一座後工業時代的街區，平時這裏也承辦藝術盛典。在藍領聚居的威丁區，斯塔巴德的開放牆壁藝術館(Open Walls Gallery)也有同樣的功能，這座夜總會兼文化中心是由廢棄的游泳池改建而成的。

“I wanted to do something that fits the city’s cultures and subcultures,” said the Paris native Guillaume Trotin, who founded Open Walls with Elodie Bellanger, in 2012, after running pop-up art projects in Miami, Paris and other cities. Mr. Trotin now exhibits urban artists like Alias and Vermibus in a sleek indoor space.

“那時我想做些事，來映襯這座城市的文化與亞文化。”生長於巴黎的紀堯姆·特洛丁(Guillaume Trotin)說。2012年，他與艾洛蒂·白朗格(Elodie Bellanger)聯袂建起了開放牆壁藝術館，之前也曾在邁阿密、巴黎和其他城市運營過流行藝術項目。而今，特洛丁先生在美麗的館內舉辦都市藝術家作品展，比如《化名與終點》(Alias and Vermibus)主題展。

Treasure hunters can also go straight to the source — the artists themselves. Jim Avignon’s panels on the Berlin Wall’s East Side Gallery are legendary, but he also paints eye-popping graphic works in his Kreuzberg studio, sometimes selling them in person or on his website, jimavignon­ (an exuberant solo show is on view at Neurotitan until Oct. 25). Packed with cartoonish characters and clever visual commentaries on Berlin’s gentrification, his acrylic-on-paper panels are affordable (starting at about 100 euros).

尋寶人也可以直接追溯藝術的源頭——藝術家本人。柏林牆東側畫廊上吉姆·艾維格農(Jim Avignon)的鑲嵌裝飾畫堪稱傳奇，但他也在自己位於柏林十字山區的工作室內創造那些讓人驚豔的繪畫作品，有時候親自出售畫作，在網站jimavignon­上也可以買到。（10月25日前，神經巨人畫廊舉辦了一場蔚然大觀的吉姆·艾格維農個人藝術展）他的丙烯鑲嵌畫將卡通人物與慧黠的視覺評論融爲一體，展現了柏林都市階層分化的社會風情。這些作品售價100歐元起。

Working in a former metal fixtures factory, the duo who call themselves 44Flavours create geometric wall pieces, murals and sculptures incorporating found materials. “We’re interested in anything that tells stories, so we go outside and collect stuff,” said Julio Rölle, who collaborates with his business partner, Sebastian Bagge, on not only art but also designs for shirts and snowboards.

朱力歐·羅萊(Julio Rölle)與塞巴斯蒂安·貝格(Sebastian Bagge)這對雙人搭檔自稱44道風味，在一座由金屬裝置廠廠房改建而成的工作室裏，創造幾何圖形牆拼作品、壁畫以及用能夠找到的一切材料做成的雕塑。“我們對一切有故事的東西都感興趣，所以出去收集各種材料。”朱力歐說，他與生意夥伴的合作不僅在藝術領域，還涉足了T恤及滑雪板設計。

Arguably the most polished urban art can be found at Circle Culture, which has grown into a multivenue enterprise. The newest, largest space opened on Potsdamer Strasse, Berlin’s main gallery strip, last November. Showing artists like the Brooklyn-based muralist Maya Hayuk or XOOOOX (whose haunting stencil figures still lurk on Berlin streets), the owner Johann Haehling von Lanzenauer sees the lines between artistic subdefinitions blurring. “The term ‘street art’ is done, over,” said Mr. von Lanzenauer, pointing at Stefan Strumbel’s neon-kitsch cuckoo clocks and prints on the gallery’s walls. “I call this contemporary art. Street is just a medium.” KIMBERLY BRADLEY

可以說，最鮮亮的都市藝術品都可以在圓圈文化(Circle Culture)藝術館看到，這家企業已經成長壯大，開了多家分館，其中最新最大的一家於去年11月開業，地址在柏林的重要藝術地段波茨坦大街。館中展出的傑作包括來自布魯克林的壁畫家瑪雅·海雅克(Maya Hayuk)和XOOOOK（他的版畫在柏林的街道上隨處可見）的作品。店主約翰·海靈·馮·蘭澤諾爾(Johann Haehling von Lanzenauer)認爲各種藝術之間的界限正日益模糊。“‘街頭藝術’這個詞該消亡了。”馮·蘭澤諾爾先生指着畫廊牆上斯蒂芬·施特魯貝爾(Stefan Strumbel)的新刻奇布穀鳥鐘表和印刷作品說道。“我把這些東西叫做當代藝術。街頭就是博物館。”金伯利·布拉德利(KIMBERLY BRADLEY)供稿。