歐羅巴十二寶之薩拉熱窩的咖啡壺

For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在歐洲版10月19日旅遊板塊，作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶，下面，我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設計，逐一欣賞吧。

Sarajevo: Coffee Sets

薩拉熱窩的咖啡壺

To know Sarajevo, you must understand the importance of coffee. Making traditional kafa (coffee) — introduced here soon after the Ottoman Empire conquered the Kingdom of Bosnia in 1463 — is a process. Grounds are roasted in a dzezva (JEHZ-vah) before adding boiling water. When the froth foams to the top, the rich brew is poured into a small, handleless china cup known as a fildzan (FILL-john), which sits in a copper sheath, or zarf. The world grinds to a halt. Cigarettes are lit. Conversations take hushed tones.

想了解薩拉熱窩，你必須瞭解咖啡的重要性。烹製傳統咖啡有一套特定的流程。1463年，奧斯曼帝國征服了波斯尼亞王國，之後沒多久，傳統咖啡就引進了此地。把咖啡豆放在咖啡機裏烤熟，然後倒入開水。當咖啡汁液裏的泡沫升到頂部，就可以把濃香的咖啡倒進一隻小小的無柄瓷杯，這種杯子稱作費爾江(fildzan)，平時放在一隻叫做扎夫(zarf)的黃銅護套裏。咖啡煮好了。香菸點起來了。低沉的交談即將開始。

The ritual that is Bosanska (Bosnian) kafa is lost on many tourists as they navigate the beehive of trinket-peddling hawkers in the cobblestone alleys of Bascarsija, the Ottoman Quarter. But a trained ear can make out craftsmen coaxing copper into vessels used for preparing and drinking Sarajevo’s beloved beverage.

當遊客漫步於奧斯曼街區巴斯卡斯加街巷的卵石路，在密密麻麻的小商販之間穿行時，他們大都淡忘了波斯尼亞咖啡的烹製儀式，但一隻經過訓練的耳朵卻能夠分辨出工匠把黃銅敲製成容器的聲音，他們會用這些容器烹製及啜飲薩拉熱窩人最愛的飲品。

On Kazandziluk (or coppersmith’s) Street, across from Sebilj, find the wooden fountain in Bascarsija’s main square. Midway down the narrow flagstone avenue, Muhamed Husejnovic sits in his shop, Kazandzijska Radnja (Kazandziluk 18), hammer-pinging coffee sets (around 50 Bosnian convertible marks, or KM, $34 at 1.46 KM to the dollar), as Bosnians have done for 500 years.

在塞比利對面的銅匠大街，在巴斯卡斯加大廣場上尋找木噴泉，沿着狹窄的石板路走到一半，就看到穆罕默德·胡塞努維克Muhamed Husejnovic)坐在自家的店鋪Kazandzijska Radnja (Kazandziluk 18)裏，揮舞着錘子鍛造咖啡壺（售價大概50波斯尼亞可兌換馬克，或稱KM；按照1美元等於1.46KM計算，合34美元），正如波斯尼亞人500年前所做的那樣。

“This work is not respected like it once was,” said Mr. Husejnovic, whose family business goes back more than 200 years. “For every 100 cheap coffee sets sold in Bascarsija, I sell one.”

“這種工作不像過去那麼受尊敬了。”胡塞努維克先生說，他的家族企業有200多年的歷史了。“在巴斯卡斯加，每100套平價咖啡壺裏，都有一套是從我這兒買的。”

Walk north, across the square, to another tiny atelier, Manufaktura (Kovaci 28), where the owner and coppersmith Abdulah Hadzic treats visitors to impromptu master classes, explaining how he turns his dzezvas (30 to 80 KM) into functional art. Some are filled with molten lead so Mr. Hadzic can hammer dimples and floral swirls onto their exteriors without compromising their shapes. He removes the lead and sanitizes the dzezva before applying a stove-ready tin lining. For others, he’ll apply a coat of tin outside and in, and engrave through to the underlayer of copper in geometric patterns. “There is no end to this work,” said Mr. Hadzic as he chiseled away.

穿過廣場向北走，去往另一個小型的手工咖啡壺作坊（Manufaktura，庫瓦西大街28號），店主兼銅匠阿卜杜拉·哈茨克(Abdulah Hadzic)在這裏招待遊客，即興講授大師級課程，演示他是如何將咖啡壺（售價30至80KM）變成功能藝術的。有些半成品內填滿了融化的鉛水，哈茨克先生就在外殼上用錘子敲出水波或漩渦花朵的圖案，卻不用改變咖啡壺的造型。他將鉛水倒掉，爲咖啡壺消毒，最後鑲嵌上一條已經在爐中鎔好的錫邊。至於其他的咖啡壺，他會安上一層錫殼，鑿出幾何圖形的鏤空圖案，露出黃銅底層。“這活兒永遠幹不完。”哈茨克先生一邊說，一邊繼續手中的雕刻工作。

Purchase in hand, make your way to Cajdzinica Dzirlo (Kovaci 16; 387-61-159-965), a cafe that serves kafa (3 KM) the old way, in individual-size dzezvas. Then, on a terrace overlooking Bascarsija, fill your fildzan, and heed the words of Diana Dzirlo, the cafe’s owner: “A coffee must take at least half an hour just to sit and enjoy.” ALEX CREVAR

手工咖啡壺買到手了，你可以直奔卡茲尼卡澤露咖啡館（Cajdzinica Dzirlo，庫瓦西大街16號；387-61-159-965），這家餐廳供應的老式咖啡（售價3KM）盛放在單獨的容器內。然後在一座能俯瞰巴斯卡斯加風光的露臺上，倒上滿滿一杯咖啡，傾聽老闆娘戴安娜·澤露(Diana Dzirlo)的盈盈笑語：“一杯咖啡起碼得喝半小時，就坐在這裏盡情享受吧。”亞歷克斯·可瑞瓦(ALEX CREVAR)供稿。