70年代古董珠寶行情火爆 Ultra cool 1970s vibe inspires wave of must have collections

The 1970s is achingly cool once again. In the world of fashion, Saint Laurent and Gucci are riding the crest of the 70s-inspired look.

上世紀70年代的流行風格再度成爲時尚寵兒，聖羅蘭(Saint Laurent)與古馳(Gucci)是這股復古之風的引領者。

And the world of jewellery is cashing in on the trend for nostalgia, albeit nostalgia only a few decades old.

儘管只是懷舊幾十年前的流行時尚，但珠寶首飾界卻乘勢利用這股復古之風大獲其利。

In 2007, Daphne Lingon, senior vice-president of jewellery at Christie’s New York, identified what would be the next big thing in the market. She won a surprisingly hard-fought bidding battle for a pair of 1970s David Webb gold and white enamel ear pendants for an unidentified high-profile client for the world of fashion.

早在2007年，紐約佳士得(Christie)首飾拍賣部副總裁達芙妮霠Ⅷ(Daphne Lingon)就已經對未來的珠寶潮流未卜先知。她曾代表一位未透露姓名的時尚名流，在一場驚心動魄的競標大戰中，出人意料地拍到了大衛韋伯(David Webb)上世紀70年代用黃金與白琺琅打造的一對耳墜。

Today, her instinct has proved accurate as the market for 1970s jewellery flourishes. Yet despite this, according to Ms Lingon: “We don’t have enough [1970s] pieces for demand.”

今天，隨着上世紀70年代的首飾行情火爆，證明她當初的直覺完全正確。然而儘管如此，林貢說：“我們目前的‘存貨’供不應求。”

Prices are climbing, more pieces are on the market and estimates are being smashed. A simple Bulgari gold chain necklace went for $25,000 — five times its estimate — at a sale in April held at Sotheby’s New York.

這些上世紀70年代的首飾售價正不斷攀升，而更多類似物件正源源不斷進入交易市場，先前的預估價不斷被刷新。在今年四月舉行的紐約蘇富比(Sotheby)拍賣會上，一件造型簡單的寶格麗金項鍊最終以2.5萬美元成交——比預估價足足高出了4倍。

Frank Everett, sales director of jewellery at Sotheby’s New York, says: “People collecting jewellery in the 1970s are now in their 80s and 90s and are selling now. And there are more estates with 1970s pieces.”

紐約蘇富比首飾拍賣主管弗蘭克埃弗雷特(Frank Everett)說：“上世紀70年代首飾的那些收藏者如今已屆耄耋之年，他們開始出手這些藏品；更多人家裏還收藏有上世紀70年代的物件。”

He cites two big private collections in the company’s forthcoming December sale as an example, including an 18-carat gold and carved jade David Webb necklace with detachable pendant estimated at $80,000-$120,000.

他以紐約蘇富比12月拍賣會上競拍的兩件私人收藏的精品爲例加以說明，其中之一就是由大衛韋伯打造的一款鑲嵌18克拉黃金與玉雕件、搭配可卸式掛件的項鍊，預估價爲8-10萬美元。

Fashion has shown jewellery the way. Hedi Slimane, creative director of Saint Laurent (which made its name in the 1970s) has doubled the brand’s sales revenue from 353m in 2011 to 707m in 2014, thanks to his sellout 1970s rock ’n’ roll collections.

時尚界已爲珠寶首飾指明瞭未來發展方向。正是由於聖羅蘭（上世紀70年代創建品牌）創意總監艾迪斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)設計的上世紀70年代搖滾風格的首飾系列一款難求，公司銷售額從2011年的3.53億歐元飈升至2014年的7.07億歐元。

And now there is Gucci’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, who has overhauled the company — and influenced the industry — with his heavily 1970s-inspired debut collections, which have helped reinvigorate the brand. In July, Gucci announced a 4.6 per cent jump in second-quarter sales, after a 7.9 per cent drop in first-quarter sales.

另一緊跟這股潮流的代表人物是古馳新任創意總監亞歷桑德羅猠歇爾(Alessandro Michele)，他讓古馳風格發生了脫胎換骨的變化，正是他深受上世紀70年代時尚風格啓發而推出的首場時裝系列讓古馳品牌重現輝煌，進而深刻影響了整個時尚界。今年七月，古馳宣佈第二季增收4.6%，從而與首季營收減少7.9%形成了鮮明對比。

“Everyone loves the 1970s and the idea of being so cool yet so laid back,” says Justin O’Shea, buying director for luxury e-retailer . “The 1970s spirit is unbridled and it provides a feeling of pure happiness, which resonates with the end consumer, whether fashion or high jewellery.”

“大家都喜歡上世紀70年代的時尚風格，它顯得既新潮又休閒。”奢侈品線上零售網採購總監賈斯汀攠謝(Justin O’Shea)說。“上世紀70年代崇尚天馬行空的時尚風格，它提供的是純粹的快樂感，不管是時裝還是高檔首飾，都深受終端消費者的青睞。”

While 1970s jewellery by Bulgari, David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and other big names make the highest prices, the market for independent 1970s designers such as Andrew Grima and John Donald is growing, too.

雖說寶格麗(Bulgari)、大衛韋伯以及梵克雅寶(Van Cleef & Arpels)等知名品牌推出的上世紀70年代時尚風格的首飾市場售價最高，但安德魯格里馬(Andrew Grima)以及約翰唐納德(John Donald)等上世紀70年代獨立設計師同樣越來越受到市場追捧。

Indeed, according to Daniel Struyf, Bonhams’ new international jewellery director, there was more craftsmanship in 1970s jewellery than in today’s pieces. Little wonder a Grima grey-blue sapphire and diamond square-cut ring in Bonhams’ fine jewellery sale in London next month is estimated at 500,000- 700,000.

沒錯，在邦瀚斯拍賣行(Bonhams)新任國際珠寶總監丹尼爾斯特魯伊夫(Daniel Struyf)看來，相比如今的珠寶首飾，上世紀70年代的物件多由手工打造。由格里馬打造的一款鑲嵌藍寶石與鑽石、方形切割而成的藍灰色戒指在下月的邦瀚斯倫敦名貴首飾拍賣會上預估價高達50萬-70萬英鎊也就不足爲奇了。

London gallerist Louisa Guinness, who launched LG Treasures in May focusing on rare 1970s (and 1960s) jewels, says these pieces have widened the pool of traditional jewellery collectors. “The designs are mini artworks so they appeal to collectors who like design rather than rocks or gold,” she says.

倫敦畫廊經營者路易莎吉尼斯(Louisa Guinness)於今年五月舉辦了LG Treasures，專門展出上世紀70年代（以及60年代）的珍稀款首飾。她說這些展品拓寬了傳統首飾藏家的收藏範圍。“這些精品猶如微型藝術珍品，深受癡迷設計風格而非寶石或黃金本身藏家之青睞。”她說。

More women in their 30s to 50s are purchasing these pieces, too — to wear as well as invest. Catherine McKenna, co-founder of fine antique and period jewellers McKenna & Co, says: “They want an exclusive piece like a Kutchinsky instead of the same Rolex as everyone else.”

更多30歲至50歲之間的女性也開始買入這類首飾，既是投資工具，也作穿戴之用。凱瑟琳麥肯納(Catherine McKenna)是老款珠寶首飾名品公司McKenna & Co的聯合創始人，她說：“藏家希望擁有一款限量版的辜青斯基首飾（Kutchinsky，一個源自波蘭的古老珠寶品牌，距今已有一個多世紀的歷史，設計極爲精美，以工藝繁複著稱），而不是大同小異的勞力士腕錶。”

According to Jon King, senior vice-president of product and store design at Tiffany & Co, the yellow gold that characterises 1970s jewellery makes it today’s canny investment, thanks to a better understanding of assets and investments. Tiffany has recently plundered its design archive for the first time, using its 1970s Blue Book catalogue for an eight-piece capsule collection with Dover Street Market including diamond and tsavorite gold earrings adapted from a 1973 cufflinks and stud set. “The 1970s broadens our international appeal,” says Mr King.

蒂芙尼負責產品與門店設計的執行副總裁喬恩金(Jon King)說，用金銀銅合金材料打造的上世紀70年代首飾如今成了投資寵兒，這都歸功於對資產以及投資理念的深刻理解。蒂芙尼最近首次大規模逆襲留存的設計檔案——它從上世紀70年代的Blue Book高級珠寶目錄中汲取靈感，與時尚概念店丹佛街集市(Dover Street Market)合作推出了八件套的混搭系列首飾(capsule collection)，其中就包括一款鑲嵌鑽石與沙弗來石的金耳環，它改自1973年的一套袖釦與鈕釦。“上世紀70年代風格的首飾提升了我們品牌的國際知名度。”喬恩金說。

“Nineteen seventies jewellery is still relatively inexpensive compared to other popular periods such as Art Deco or Georgian,” says Sam Loxton, manager of Lucas Rarities, a London-based jeweller specialising in the 1910s to the 1970s, who spoke on 1970s jewellery at September’s Lapada art and antiques fair. “Prices [for 1970s pieces] tend to be under 50,000, while I sold a Cartier Art Deco diamond sautoir for 125,000 at Art Antiques London in June and a pair of Georgian diamond drop earrings for 145,000 in July,” he says.

“與阿泰科風格(Art Deco)以及英王喬治時代風格(Georgian)其它知名時期相比，上世紀70年代的珠寶首飾價位仍然較低。”Lucas Rarities經理山姆洛克斯頓(Sam Loxton)說，該店是倫敦專營20世紀初至70年代風格的珠寶零售店。在今年九月舉行的Lapada藝術與古玩博覽會上，他這樣評價上世紀70年代的珠寶首飾。“這個時代的首飾售價往往不到5萬英鎊，而在今年6月與7月舉辦的倫敦藝術古董展(Art Antiques London)上，卡地亞(Cartier)一款阿泰科風格的鑽石項飾以及喬治王時期風格的一副鑽石耳墜分別賣了12.5萬英鎊與14.5萬英鎊的高價。”他說。

Cristina Miller, North American head of dealer relations at online marketplace 1stdibs, says the high visibility of 1970s jewellery online is fuelling the market — whether on its website or the auction house e-catalogue.

奢侈品購物網1stdibs北美地區經銷商主管克里斯蒂娜猠勒(Cristina Miller)說：不管是在自家網站、還是在拍賣行的電子目錄上亮相，上世紀70年代風格首飾的高曝光率讓珠寶首飾的行情更加火爆。

“The big, bold designs and unmissable yellow gold are easier to see online than say the intricate Art Deco looks which are harder to see even with a zoom,” she says.

“在網店上，設計大膽的大物件首飾以及消費者不應錯過的金銀銅合金材質首飾在網店上比比皆是，而做工精巧的阿泰科風格首飾即便出高價也是難覓蹤跡。”她說。

The deep-pocketed big brands are also driving the market as they buy back their archive to showcase in retrospectives and bolster their collections.

財大氣粗的知名首飾品牌通過回購自己以前推出的老款式舉辦回顧展以提升自己品牌知名度，從而再助首飾火爆行情以一臂之力。

Van Cleef & Arpels is hoovering up its 1970s pieces as “if I wait I won’t find anything on the second-hand market”, says Catherine Cariou, the company’s heritage director. And Bulgari is showcasing its first coin collections, multi-gem sautoirs and other 1970s pieces in its Art of Bulgari show at the Tokyo National Museum.

梵克雅寶大量回購自己上世紀70年代推出的首飾款式，給人的感覺是：“自己在二手市場不果斷出手，就會一無所獲”。其傳承典藏總監凱瑟琳慍裏烏(Catherine Cariou)說。寶格麗在東京國立博物館(Tokyo National Museum)舉辦了“寶格麗的藝術展”(Art of Bulgari show)，展出了自己推出的首個紀念幣系列、鑲嵌多顆寶石的項飾以及其它上世紀70年代的各款首飾。

“Everywhere we expose the brand, we show these [1970s] pieces to bring desirability to the brand and to convince clients to go for a high jewellery piece, particularly those clients from China and south east Asia” says Vincent Reynes, Bulgari’s UK managing director.

“不管在哪兒舉辦展會，我們都會展示這些上世紀70年代的首飾，以增加品牌滿意度，並且成功說服消費者購置高檔首飾，尤其是那些來自中國以及東南亞的客戶。“寶格麗英國區總經理文森特雷恩斯(Vincent Reynes)說。

With the 1970s look still vibrating across the spring/summer 2016 catwalks, boho jewels look set for a glittering future.

上世紀70年代風格的首飾仍在各大時裝品牌2016年春夏季展中大放異彩，波希米亞風格的首飾前景註定是一片光明。