殺死默克爾 德國模特震驚巴黎T臺

PARIS — It was Look 25 that stood out, and not for any of the intended reasons.

巴黎——Look 25品牌脫穎而出，但卻不是故意安排的緣故。

It takes a lot to upstage snout-like helmets made of frizzed hair, but a German model known as Jera managed it on Thursday afternoon.

要比打理成豬鼻狀頭盔的蓬鬆長髮更搶風頭還真不容易，但一個名叫吉瑞(Jera)的德國模特在星期四的下午就做到了。

As he made his way down the runway in the Rick Owens show at the Palais de Tokyo here, he pulled a piece of white cloth from somewhere beneath his sea-foam-green top and oversize black shorts. And then, as he turned toward the editors and buyers in the front row, he unfurled a hand-lettered banner that read “Please Kill Angela Merkel — Not.”

他在裏克•歐文斯(Rick Owens)東京舞廳的走秀上亮相，身穿海綠色上衣和寬大的黑色短褲，突然從衣服下面拿出一塊白布。然後他轉向第一排的主編和買手，展示白布上手寫的大字：“請殺死安吉拉•默克爾——不。”

Social media immediately began to throb with the news, and articles about the protesting model proliferated immediately — though none seemed especially clear on what Jera’s message about Ms. Merkel, the German chancellor, was supposed to convey.

社交媒體迅速爲這個消息而轟動，關於這個發起抗議的模特的文章鋪天蓋地——但是似乎沒有人清楚吉瑞關於德國總理默克爾女士的這條消息到底想表達什麼意思。

Mr. Owens, who in the past has referred to Jera as his muse, wasn’t sure, either, but made it plain that he was not aware of the model’s plans and did not in any way approve of his actions.

歐文斯曾說吉瑞是自己的繆斯，這一次，他也不知道吉瑞是什麼意思，但他澄清，自己不知道吉瑞的計劃，也絕不贊同他的行爲。

“This was an independent statement,” read a statement issued by his public relations firm shortly after the show, “and does not reflect the opinion of the house of Rick Owens.”

“這是與品牌無關的宣言，”走秀不久後，歐文斯的公關公司發表聲明，“完全不代表裏克•歐文斯時裝屋的看法。”

Speaking backstage to a reporter from Women’s Wear Daily, Mr. Owens put it more bluntly: “It’s a crazy, rogue model that I punched when he came back out,” he said, adding an unpublishable third descriptor. “Please say that I punched him.”

歐文斯在後臺接受了《女裝日報》(Women’s Wear Daily)記者的採訪，他直率地說：“就是一個瘋狂的模特在搗亂，他下來的時候我給了他一拳，”他還補了一句不太適合刊出的話。“你一定要寫我打了他。”

Reached by phone Thursday night, Mr. Owens had grown more reflective.

星期四晚上，歐文斯在接受電話採訪的時候顯得深思熟慮了一些。

Though he had initially been angry, he said, “Afterwards I thought, ‘I kind of created this.’ Maybe I’ve created an environment where provocation is endorsed or maybe even encouraged. Maybe he saw it as ‘In Rick’s world, anything goes.’ ”

他說，儘管自己一開始很生氣，“後來我想，‘這局面也是我造成的。’我可能是創造出一種允許挑釁的氣氛，甚至有點鼓勵挑釁。也許這讓他覺得‘在裏克·歐文斯這兒幹什麼都行’。”

In fact, Mr. Owens added, he had intended the show to be a comment on determination and the danger of such determination tipping into aggression, specifically male aggression. Jera’s gesture, and the designer’s response, ironically dovetailed with just that.

事實上，歐文斯還說，他希望這場走秀對攻擊性傾向，特別是男性的攻擊性傾向，乃至這種傾向的危險性發表意見。而吉瑞的做法乃至歐文斯本人的迴應正好吻合了這個主題，雖說有些諷刺意味。

Mr. Owens is a fearless showman, and his shows have often bordered on performance art.

歐文斯是個無所畏懼的公衆人物，他的走秀通常打些行爲藝術的擦邊球。

In 2013, he cast American collegiate step dancers to stomp their way through a widely heralded women’s show. Last season’s men’s show, in a gesture meant to question the idea of bodily shame, featured several models on the runway in outfits that exposed their genitals. Jera was one of these.

2013年，他請來美國大學的踢踏舞演員，在一場廣泛受到宣傳的女裝走秀上跳踢踏舞。在上一季他的男裝秀上，有幾個模特身穿暴露生殖器的服裝走秀，挑戰對身體某些部位感到羞恥的觀念。吉瑞也在其列。

The model has worked with Mr. Owens for more than 10 years. He has appeared in many of the designer’s runway shows, and there are several pictures of him on the designer’s Tumblr, including one of Mr. Owens shaving his eyebrows. The earliest dates from 2004. As recently as a few months ago, Mr. Owens photographed Jera nude with a live horse for the magazine Neue Journal.

吉瑞爲歐文斯工作已經有十幾年，參加過許多歐文斯的走秀，歐文斯的Tumblr賬號上也有一些他的照片，有一張是歐文斯幫他修眉毛。兩人最早的合作可以追溯到2004年。幾個月前，歐文斯還爲《Neue Journal》雜誌拍過吉瑞裸體騎馬的照片，

Jera was discovered 12 years ago on the streets of Cologne, Germany, by Eva Gödel, the owner and founder of the Cologne-based modeling agency Tomorrow Is Another Day. But he is not on the main roster of the agency, working by special booking for only Mr. Owens, who counts him as something of a house favorite.

12年前，科隆模特經紀公司“明天又是新的一天”(Tomorrow Is Another Day)的老闆兼創始人愛娃•哥德爾(Eva Gödel)在德國科隆的街頭髮現了吉瑞。但他並不是公司主要花名冊上的成員，而是隻接受歐文斯的特別聘請，歐文斯視他爲品牌最青睞的模特。

“He’ll never work again,” said Ms. Gödel, speaking by phone Thursday afternoon. “He’s out of the agency. I’d never expect him to do something like that. No one expected it. I never thought he’d be so disrespectful.”

“他再也不會工作了，”哥德爾女士在週四下午接受了電話採訪。“他不再是我們公司的一員。我從沒想到他會做出這種事。沒人能想到。我從沒想過他會這樣失禮。”

She declined to give Jera’s full name or make him available for comment, but added in a follow-up email: “I always said that I can not take any responsibility for Jera if they [would] like to book him, because he is crazy and unreliable. It was always a pain to get him to Rick’s bookings in time.”

她拒絕透露吉瑞的全名，也拒絕讓他接受採訪，但她在一封后續電子郵件中補充道：“我說過，如果有人願意僱用吉瑞，我無法爲他負責，因爲他瘋狂、無法信任。讓他準時參加裏克預訂的活動非常吃力。”

Those who knew Jera from Mr. Owens’s studio recalled him as a loose cannon.

在歐文斯的工作室，認識吉瑞的人都覺得他是個無法無天、難以控制的人。

“In all honesty, I feel like it’s something that we’ve slightly expected from this particular character, or I have, anyway,” said Angus Munro, the co-founder of AM Casting, who is Mr. Owens’s casting director.

“誠實地說，我覺得我們其實有點期待這個特別的人物做出這種事來，起碼我是這樣，”“AM選角”(AM Casting)公司的聯合創始人安格斯•芒羅(Angus Munro)說，他也負責爲歐文斯挑選模特。

When Jera returned from the runway, Mr. Young and the backstage security guards told him he had to leave immediately, and he did not return for the finale.

當天吉瑞從秀臺下去後，一位姓楊的先生和後臺保安讓他馬上離開，他也沒有參加最後謝幕。

“He is a kook,” Mr. Owens said, “and I love a kook.” But he also said that at the moment Jera unfurled the banner, he wondered whether “this is my Valerie Solanas” — referring to the crazed hanger-on who shot Andy Warhol.

“他是個怪人，”歐文斯說，“我喜歡怪人。”但他也說，吉瑞展開橫幅那一剎那，他忍不住想“這該不會是我的瓦萊麗•索拉納斯(Valerie Solanas)吧”——瓦萊麗•索拉納斯就是那個槍擊安迪•沃霍爾(Andy Warhol)的食客。

And though Mr. Owens said that he and the model had “great warmth for each other,” Jera’s English is spotty and Mr. Owens’s German nonexistent. So even after more than a decade, Mr. Owens said, “our conversations have been pretty vague.”

歐文斯說，他和吉瑞“彼此非常友善”，但是吉瑞說英語結結巴巴，歐文斯也不會說德語。所以儘管兩人合作了十幾年，歐文斯說，“我們之間的對話其實非常含糊。”

But he did recall an odd moment from Jera’s fitting earlier this week. According to Mr. Owens, the model produced three cards and asked him to choose between them: “Kill Angela Merkel,” “Kill Angela Merkel — Not” and “Kill the Last Unicorn.”

但他回憶起這個星期的早些時候，吉瑞試衣時確實有些奇怪。歐文斯說，吉瑞拿來三張卡片讓他選，上面分別寫着：“殺死安吉拉•默克爾”、“殺死安吉拉•默克爾——不”、“殺死最後一隻獨角獸。”

“I thought it was just a little game, a wordplay thing he was doing for the moment,” Mr. Owens said. He chose “Kill the Last Unicorn”; his wife, Michele Lamy, chose none of them, saying, “I don’t like any killing at all.”

“我覺得這是個小遊戲，是他一時興起的文字遊戲之類的，”歐文斯說。他選了“殺死最後一隻獨角獸”；他的妻子米歇爾•雷米(Michele Lamy)沒選，說“我不想殺死任何東西。”

“I guess he figured I endorsed it from that,” Mr. Owens said. “I didn’t know it was going to come back to haunt me.”

“我覺得他可能認爲我這麼做就代表同意了他的做法，”歐文斯說。“我不知道這還會再回來煩我。”

After the model’s stunt, Mr. Owens said he would likely not work with Jera again.

歐文斯說，吉瑞搞出這件事以後，自己不願再同他合作了。

Asked whether Jera would be barred from future shows, Mr. Munro said, “I think you would be safe to say that, yes.”

被問到吉瑞是否會被禁止出席未來的走秀，“AM選角”公司的芒羅說，“肯定地說，是的。”