36小時玩轉法國斯特拉斯堡
Have you been naughty or nice? A self-proclaimed “Christmas Capital” — thanks to one of the oldest and largest Christmas markets in Europe — Strasbourg welcomes the virtuous and vice-loving alike to its December citywide extravaganza of gift bazaars, concerts, lights and mulled wine. But the city is hardly a holiday novelty. Nestled along France’s border with Germany, Strasbourg has been fawned over and fought over for centuries by the two nations, ping-ponging back and forth before returning to France at the end of World War II. The result is a fetching Franco-Teutonic core of cobbled traffic-free lanes, canals, half-timbered houses and spires where you can fill both your belly (with copious rustic Alsatian dishes) and your brain (with impressive art museums). Toss in the seat of the European Parliament, a lively bar scene and some winningly repurposed historical buildings — now elegant hotels and gastronomic havens — and you have an international city with year-round appeal.
最近你表現怎樣？淘氣了沒有？因擁有歐洲最古老、規模最大的聖誕市場之一而自稱“聖誕之都”(Christmas Capital)的斯特拉斯堡向各方遊客張開臂膀，歡迎大家探訪12月遍及全城的禮品集市、音樂演出、聖誕燈光和香濃美酒，不管你是好孩子還是壞孩子。但除了新奇假期以後，這個城市還有很多好玩的東西。斯特拉斯堡坐落在德法邊境，歷史上德法兩國爲它的歸屬發生過多次爭鬥，四個回合以後，斯特拉斯堡在“二戰”結束前歸入法國。這段歷史的直接後果，就是今日兼具法蘭西和日耳曼特色的迷人城市風情。這裏既有鋪滿卵石、只適合步行的小巷，也有縱橫交織的運河，還有半木結構的房屋和各種尖頂建築——在那些建築中，你可以用分量十足的阿爾薩斯美食充實自己的腸胃，也可以用令人驚豔的藝術博物館充實你的大腦。作爲歐洲議會所在地，斯特拉斯堡擁有活力四射的酒吧文化，還有許多改建爲優雅旅館和高端飯店的歷史建築，這個國際都市一年四季都有別樣的魅力。
Friday
星期五1. Scenic History | 4 p.m.
1、觀景懷古遊 | 下午4點
Over the centuries here in Strasbourg, Gutenberg invented the printing press, a local military officer wrote the French national anthem and the young Goethe wrote and wrote. These and other tidbits form the narrative of “Strasbourg, Over Twenty Centuries of History,” a scenic Batorama boat tour that circles Strasbourg’s Grand Île, a Unesco World Heritage site, and proceeds upriver to institutions of the European Commission. Passing grassy banks, you’ll ogle architectural masterworks like the Romanesque Église St. Paul, the flamboyant neo-Gothic Lycée des Pontonniers and the silvery postmodern European Court of Human Rights, animated by multilanguage commentary. Adults 12.50 euros, or $15 at $1.20 to the euro.
在斯特拉斯堡數百年的歷史中，古騰堡發明了印刷術，一位當地軍官創作了法國國歌，年輕的歌德在這裏專注寫作。諸如此類的歷史點滴形成了文化遊船之旅“斯特拉斯堡，20個世紀之歷史”的解說詞。這個旅行路線會圍着斯特拉斯堡知名景觀——聯合國教科文組織認可的世界文化遺產大島(Grand Île)前行，接着逆流而上到達歐盟委員會。沿着綠草如茵的河岸，你會看到很多建築學的傑作，比如羅馬風格的聖喬治教堂(Église St. Paul)、誇張新哥特風格的龐特尼爾高中(Lycée des Pontonniers)、銀色後現代風格的歐洲人權法院(European Court of Human Rights)。遊覽中，多國語言的解說詞讓旅行更加有趣。成年人12.50歐元，按照歐元兌美元1.20的匯率合15美元。2. Canals and Towers | 5:30 p.m.
2、運河與尖塔 | 下午5:30Strolling past gingerbread-style mansions in the Petite France neighborhood, you half expect to glimpse Hansel and Gretel scurrying across the cobblestones. A web of lanes, canals, narrow bridges, ivy-draped walls and wrought-iron streetlamps, the storybook atmosphere invites meandering. Place du Quartier Blanc leads to medieval stone towers and Barrage Vauban, a 17th-century defensive fortification resembling a covered stone bridge. In leafy Place Benjamin Zix, La Corde à Linge cafe offers lovely views of the canals and classic half-timbered houses. A Café Alsacien (7.50 euros) — spiked with Gewürztraminer eau-de-vie — warms body and spirit.
在“小法蘭西”(Petite France)社區走過薑餅屋風格的房屋，你會自覺身處格林童話《亨舍爾與格雷琴》(Hansel and Gretel)的場景中，暗中期待亨舍爾與格雷琴在卵石小道匆匆跑過。細密繁複的街巷、運河和窄橋，爬滿常青藤的牆壁，鑄鐵材質的街燈，營造出故事書一般的氛圍，令人流連忘返。從白四方廣場(Place du Quartier Blanc)出發，可到達中世紀的石頭尖塔和沃邦大壩(Barrage Vauban)。沃邦大壩是座17世紀的防禦工事，看起來像一座覆有頂棚的石橋。在綠葉婆娑的本傑明奇克斯廣場(Place Benjamin Zix)，晾衣繩(La Corde à Linge)咖啡館能夠看美妙的運河風光，還有經典的半木結構房屋。一份阿爾薩斯式套餐（7.50歐元）加上一杯Gewürztraminer白蘭地，會瞬間溫暖你的身體和心靈。3. A Galloping Success | 8 p.m.
3、馬到成功 | 晚上8點Food lovers and jockeys alike will appreciate Brasserie Les Haras, an 18th-century horse stable that was renovated and reopened in 2013 by a dream team of designers and restaurateurs. The dramatic two-level space was decorated in autumnal colors by the Jouin Manku firm — known for designing restaurants for Alain Ducasse — while the menu was overseen by the chef Marc Haeberlin, whose Auberge de L’Ill restaurant to the south has three Michelin stars. Appetizers include warm smoked eel and foie gras with fruit chutney, while main dishes offer a Mediterranean-Mideast touch, such as the succulent, smoky-sweet shank of lamb with cinnamon, cumin and other souk spices. A three-course dinner for two runs about 90 euros, without wine.
吃貨和騎馬愛好者都會喜歡馬廄酒館(Brasserie Les Haras)。這家小店設在18世紀的一座馬廄裏，2013年經過一羣設計師和餐飲企業家的改造以後重新開業。飯店充滿張力的兩層空間以秋天色調爲主的裝修，設計師來自Jouin Manku的事務所，而巴黎Alain Ducasse飯店的設計師也來自這家。菜單由名廚馬克·哈伊伯林(Marc Haeberlin)監督打造——此人在城南還擁有一家米其林三星飯店Auberge de L’Ill。開胃菜是熱乎乎的薰鰻魚、鵝肝醬和水果酸辣醬。主菜通常是地中海和中東特色，比如肥嫩多汁、口味香甜的烤羊腿，搭配月桂、孜然和其他中東香料。包括三道菜的二人晚餐約90歐元，不含酒水。4. Booze and Bowlers | 10:30 p.m.
4、美酒和圓頂禮帽 | 晚上10:30Strasbourg worships beer. Au Fût et à Mesure provides a novel means of sampling local and other Continental brands, courtesy of credit cards that you deploy at automated self-service taps scattered around the small, neo-industrial hangout. Fill one with credit and then fill your mug with Alsatian suds like Queue de Charrue (3.75 euros), a crisp, spicy blond brew made with spring water and barley. Chase them with a Dirty Duck (Cognac, Licor 43, ginger beer, Perrier, mint; 11 euros) or one of the dozens of whiskeys at nearby Code Bar, a dimly lighted nook with bowler hats for lampshades.
斯特拉斯堡崇拜啤酒。“鼓和天秤”酒館(Au Fût et à Mesure)提供一種新奇的手段，讓大家品嚐當地和其他歐陸品牌的酒水。空間略小、新工業風格裝修的酒館裏安裝了許多水龍頭，顧客自助品酒時可直接在龍頭上刷信用卡消費。插卡，然後將你的酒杯裝滿泡沫豐富的阿爾薩斯美酒，比如每杯3.75歐元的尾犁(Queue de Charrue)，一種脆爽辛辣的金色啤酒，用泉水和大麥釀製而成。接下來，嘗一杯“髒鴨子”（Dirty Duck，由法國干邑、Licor 43、薑汁啤酒、沛綠雅礦泉水和薄荷調配而成，11歐元）或在附近“符號吧”(Code Bar)的十多種威士忌中選一種。代碼吧設在一個燈光昏暗的角落，用圓頂禮帽做燈罩。Saturday
星期六5. Go Underground | 10 a.m.
5、走進地下 | 上午10點Sure, everyone in France still raves about the country’s 2010 vintages. But they’ve never tried the Alsatian white from 1472. Tucked in a vast barrel in Cave Historiques des Hospices de Strasbourg, the world’s oldest wine reveals hints of vanilla, honey, hazelnut and spice — at least according to tasting notes from 1944, when the keg was last tapped for consumption. It’s one of many enormous barrels stored in the hospice’s centuries-old cellars, which lie beneath the grounds of Strasbourg’s municipal hospital. Most are recent vintages from regional winemakers who have been granted the honor of aging some of their wines in the venerable kegs. The adjacent boutique sells the bottled versions, from pinot gris to riesling to pinot noir.
當然，所有法國人都在讚美該國2010年份的葡萄。但他們從未嘗過1472年的阿爾薩斯白葡萄酒。藏在斯特拉斯堡老人院的歷史酒窖(Cave Historiques des Hospices de Strasbourg)中，這批世界最古老的葡萄酒略帶香草、蜂蜜、榛果和香料的滋味，至少1944年的品酒記錄這樣認爲——那一年這批酒桶最後一次打開龍頭讓人品嚐。這個古老的酒窖位於斯特拉斯堡市醫院的地下，窖中藏有數不清的酒桶。目前大多數藏酒都來自本地的葡萄酒製造商，他們有幸將自己的葡萄放入這些尊貴的木桶發酵。隔壁的精品店出售瓶裝版本的葡萄酒，從灰皮諾、雷司令到黑皮諾都有。6. Watch the Clock | 11:30 a.m.
6、觀賞鐘錶 | 晚上11:30Has your time on Earth been well spent? Existential questions arise when beholding the towering astronomical clock inside Strasbourg’s iconic medieval Notre Dame cathedral. Constructed in the 16th century and now running on a mechanism from the 1800s, the multistory, many-tiered clock is outfitted with biblical automatons, Zodiac imagery, elemental motifs, religious statues and moving dials. At 12:30 p.m. every day, an angel strikes a bell, and another turns over an hourglass. An old man passes before Death, who clangs a bell 12 times with a bone. The 12 apostles pass before Christ, while a rooster beats his wings. Then, finally, Christ offers a gesture of peace. Tickets (2 euros) for the pageant (preceded by a film) are sold from 11:30 a.m. to noon inside the south door. Prepare to queue.
你珍惜此生時光了嗎？目視斯特拉斯堡的地標建築、中世紀風格的聖母大教堂那高聳入雲的鐘樓時，你心中會升起許多存在主義的疑問。這座建於16世紀的鐘樓在1800年代更新了機械組，至今仍在正常運行。鐘樓有好幾層高，多座尖塔直衝雲霄，樓面裝飾着聖經場景、星座圖案、哲學主題、宗教雕塑，還有時刻移動的指針。每天下午12:30，一個天使敲響鈴鐺，另一個天使就將沙漏翻過來。一位老人走過死神，用一根骨頭來更換鈴鐺。12門徒走過耶穌，同時一隻公雞拍打翅膀。最後，耶穌做出一個和平的手勢。在南門內，每天上午11:30 到正午會出售花車盛會的票（2歐元），盛會之前會有一場電影。請做好排隊的準備。7. Surrogate Grandmother | 1 p.m.
7、代理祖母 | 下午1點If you don’t have an Alsatian grandmother to cook you boiled beef with horseradish or riesling-braised chicken, Fink’Stuebel is a warm, wood-beamed substitute. You might start with the lush, buttery onion and ham tart before trying a classic choucroute garnie: mounds of zesty sauerkraut topped with a plethora of pork: a large leg joint, boiled and grilled sausages and multiple slices of meat. Dessert might be waffles in chocolate sauce or a cherry-plum crumble with schnapps syrup and whipped cream. If a food coma sets in, upstairs the restaurant rents guest rooms. A three-course meal for two, without drinks, runs about 75 euros.
如果你沒有一個阿爾薩斯祖母爲你烹製加了山葵的燉牛肉或雷司令燉煮的雞肉，溫暖而裝滿木樑的Fink’Stuebel飯店是個不錯的替代品。也許，應該以味道豐厚的黃牛洋蔥和火腿撻作爲開胃菜，然後嘗試經典的德國醃菜：一撮滋味豐富的泡菜，下面放着一大堆豬肉：有大塊的腿關節、先煮後烤的香腸，還有各種肉片。甜點可能是加了巧克力醬的華夫餅，或加了櫻桃和裏子的麪包碎，搭配烈酒糖漿和生奶油。酒足飯飽之後如果感覺昏昏欲睡，樓上就有客房出租。包括三道主菜的二人份正餐大約75歐元，不含酒水。8. Three Museums in One | 3 p.m.
8、三合一的博物館 | 下午3點Designed by a royal architect, the 18th-century Palais Rohan is a masterwork. But the real gems are inside the magisterial edifice, which houses museums devoted to archaeology, decorative arts and fine arts. The latter is the marquee attraction, thanks to the stellar assortment of Italian Renaissance paintings, which include Correggio’s haunting, surreal “Judith and the Servant” and Raphael’s richly colored and finely detailed “Portrait of a Young Woman.” Dutch and Flemish painters also make a strong showing, from the plump cherubs of Rubens to scenes of social life by Pieter de Hooch. Admission 6.50 euros.
由一位皇家建築師設計並在18世紀建成的羅翰宮(Palais Rohan)是個建築學的傑作。但真正的寶貝卻在宮殿裏面，那設於室內、分別專注於考古、裝飾藝術和美術的三家博物館。美術博物館尤爲引人，因爲裏面有許多意大利文藝復興時代的繪畫，包括柯勒喬(Correggio)陰暗驚悚、超現實主義風格的《朱迪斯與僕人》(Judith and the Servant)和拉斐爾色彩豐富、細節精美的《一位年輕女人的肖像》(Portrait of a Young Woman)。荷蘭和弗蘭德畫家也有大量作品入選，包括魯本斯胖乎乎的小天使到彼得·德·霍赫(Pieter de Hooch)筆下的社交場景。門票6.50歐元。9. The Home Team | 5 p.m.
9、家族團隊 | 下午5點Whether your home is classy, kooky or retro, a design boutique awaits in the Rue des Juifs area. Fou du Roi brims with classic Verner Panton chairs and Tom Dixon lighting, as well as French products like spice-scented candles from Gilles Dewavrin. Samurai-sword umbrellas, serving dishes embossed with Napoleon’s face and waving solar-powered mini-statues of the pope form part of the kitschy collection at Tadzio. In Polychrome, a mishmash of bright plastic furniture, vinyl LPs and funky glassware hearkens back to the ’60s and ’70s.
不管你家的裝修風格是古典、怪異還是懷舊，在Rue des Juifs 街區都能找到類似的店面。Fou du Roi商店充滿了古典的維納·潘通(Verner Panton)椅子和湯姆·迪克森(Tom Dixon)燈具，還有各種法國物品，比如吉勒·德瓦文(Gilles Dewavrin)家散發胡椒氣味的蠟燭。貌似武士長劍的雨傘，有拿破崙肖像浮雕的餐盤，Tadzio商店還有多種媚俗的小擺設，包括形狀波浪起伏、太陽能充電的教皇小雕像。Polychrome商店出售色彩明豔的塑料傢俱、黑膠唱片和令人憶起六七十年代的奇特玻璃製品。10. Rising Stairs, Rising Star | 8 p.m.
10、樓梯之上，新星升起 | 晚上8點Which floor, please? Opened in 2012 and awarded its first Michelin star this year, the fast-rising 1741 restaurant occupies an early-19th-century mansion whose stairwell elevates guests through four levels of small salons decorated in Baroque boudoir style. The food is elevated too, from the foie gras-larded table butter to desserts like honey-soaked fig purée with panna cotta and honey ice cream. In between you might find a foie gras trifecta (in glazed form, as nougat and mixed with powdery Parmesan cheese) or slices of rare venison with tiny mushrooms, raspberries and beets. Four courses cost 89 euros per person.
請問您去哪層樓？2012年開業的飯店“1741”今年已經獲得了第一顆米其林之星，不愧是餐飲界的新秀。這家飯店設在一座19世紀早期的建築裏，顧客需要走過四層樓梯並途徑幾個巴洛克閨房風格的店面才能到達。當然飯店的美食也很高端，比如摻有鵝肝醬的餐桌黃油、搭配甜蜜無花果醬的奶油布丁和蜂蜜冰淇淋。有時候還能發現混搭產品，比如三合一鵝肝醬（與杏仁糖和粉狀的帕馬森奶酪摻在一起，做成抹醬的狀態），以及搭配小蘑菇、覆盆子和甜菜的罕見鹿肉片。包括四道菜的一餐，人均89歐元。11. Bathtubs and Barrels | 10:30 p.m.
11、浴缸和木桶 | 晚上10:30If you fancy a drink in the bathroom, step into Wawa, one of the hip new spots around Place St.-Nicolas-aux-Ondes. A clawfoot tub and a disconnected, disused commode are among the seating options in this trashy-chic design haven. Clearly someone had a few absinthes (5 euros) when drawing up the plans. More rustic and refined, Le XX, a wine bar, opened this year with tables made from barrels, a cozy lounge nook and a list of Gallic vintages that includes a dense, honeyish grand cru Gewürztraminer from Kaefferkopf Simonis (6.50 euros a glass).
如果你喜歡在浴室裏喝一杯，就請走入Wawa酒吧，這家位於Place St.-Nicolas和aux-Ondes交叉口的體育酒吧是市內最新最酷的去處之一。飯店風格既頹廢又時髦，四爪浴缸和拆掉管道的廢棄洗臉檯都是可供客人選擇的座位。顯然在繪製室內裝修圖的時候，設計師喝了過多的苦艾酒（5歐元）。相比之下，今年開業的葡萄酒吧Le XX裝修就更偏於鄉村風格，也更加精緻。它採用木頭酒桶做餐桌，氣氛輕鬆，供應各種法國葡萄酒，比如來自Kaefferkopf Simonis酒莊的低度白葡萄酒（每杯6.50歐元），質感濃稠、略帶蜂蜜口感。Sunday
星期日12. Modern Arp | 11 a.m.
12、以阿爾普爲代表的現當代藝術 | 上午11點“Art is a fruit that grows in man ” begins a quote by the artist Jean Arp — a Strasbourg native — stenciled inside the Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain. If so, then the museum is a blooming orchard indeed. The modern art collection is stronger than the contemporary holdings (one flight up), so begin with Rodin’s iconic “The Thinker” (1904), then admire the strong lines and bold color blocks of Picasso’s “Nude Gathering Flowers” (1958) before threading through the rooms of works by Sisley, Gauguin, Juan Gris, Magritte, Kandinsky, Max Ernst and other heavyweights. Local talents like Arp and the illustrator Gustave Doré get rooms of their own, highlighted by Doré's massive, dynamic, mystical “Christ Leaving the Praetorium” (1867-72). Before taking your own leave, take a last look at Strasbourg from the rooftop terrace of the museum’s Art Café. Then bid the city au revoir — or, as they say in German, auf Wiedersehen. Admission 7 euros.
“藝術是人類身上結出的果實。”阿爾薩斯本地人、藝術家讓·阿爾普(Jean Arp)的這句名言，鐫刻在現當代藝術博物館的牆上。如果他的話屬實，這家博物館就是座碩果累累的果園。現代藝術的展品比當代藝術數量更多，位置也在後者的樓上。所以，讓我們的旅行從羅丹的代表作《思想者》（1904年）開始，然後欣賞畢加索《裸女採花》（Nude Gathering Flowers，1958年）粗獷的線條和大膽的色彩。接下來，仔細觀摩希思黎(Sisley)、高更(Gauguin)、胡安·格里斯(Juan Gris)、瑪格里特(Magritte)、康定斯基(Kandinsky)、馬克斯·恩斯特(Max Ernst)和其他重量級藝術家的作品。阿爾普、古斯塔夫·多雷(Gustave Doré)等當地藝術家都有各自的展廳，多雷的畫作《耶穌離開總督府》（Christ Leaving the Praetorium，1867-1872年）宏大磅礴，充滿神祕氣息。離開博物館之前，請到屋頂露臺的藝術咖啡館Art Café俯瞰整個斯特拉斯堡。然後用法語“au revoir”（再見）告別這個城市，或者用德語“auf Wiedersehen”。門票7歐元。LODGING
住宿Graffalgar (17, rue Déserte, 33-3-88-24-98-40; ) opened this year near the main train station with 19 simple rooms painted in varying colorful styles by 19 street artists. Doubles from 90 euros.
Graffalgar(17, rue Déserte, 33-3-88-24-98-40；)是今年開張的一家旅館，位於該市主火車站附近，有19間簡單的客房，內飾由19位街頭藝術家繪製而成，色彩鮮豔，風格各異。雙人房90歐元起。For stately, aristocratic ambience in the historical Petite France neighborhood, Hôtel Le Bouclier d’Or & Spa (1, rue du Bouclier, 33-3-88-13-73-55; ) is a two-year-old addition. Many of the 22 rooms feature wood beams, parquet floors and antique-style furnishings. Doubles from 194 euros.
如果你想在老城區小法蘭西入住一家華麗高檔酒店，請到金盾溫泉酒店(Hôtel Le Bouclier d’Or & Spa；1, rue du Bouclier, 33-3-88-13-73-55; )。酒店兩年前開張，22間客房都配有木樑、鑲木地板和精緻傢俱。雙人房194歐元起。
