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中國人不愛吃泡麪了?熱心的BBC深入分析原因,有理有據,無法反駁

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你有多久沒吃方便麪了(instant noodles)?

小時候,再窮也要每天買包乾脆面,因爲不能辜負剛集到一半的水滸英雄卡。

出門坐火車,到了飯點就掏出方便麪,開水一衝,熱氣糊滿了眼鏡,車廂裏頓時香飄四溢。不到十分鐘,滿滿一碗滋溜下肚,要是能加根腸(ham sausage)、來包榨菜(pickle)就香到心坎裏了。

飢腸轆轆的夜晚,在寢室邊吃泡麪邊刷劇,吃完麪再嘬幾口湯,既能填飽肚子,又能溫暖孤獨的靈魂。

出了國也要帶幾包方便麪,因爲對於遠在他鄉的留學黨來說,一碗泡麪能吃出家的感覺。

中國人不愛吃泡麪了?熱心的BBC深入分析原因,有理有據,無法反駁

的確,方便麪開袋即食,有煙火氣,是80、90後居家旅行必備單品。

英國廣播公司(BBC)最近也操心上了中國的方便麪,稱之爲“終極方便食品”。

Easy to make and cheap to buy, instant noodles have long been China's ultimate convenience food.
方便麪操作簡單,價格實惠,長久以來是中國的終極方便食品。

Be it a snack for students, a meal on the train, or just the go-to choice for hungry workers, more than 46.2 billion packets were sold in China in 2013.
方便麪是學生黨的快餐,火車上的餐食,或是飢腸轆轆的打工者的不二之選,2013年,中國賣出了超過462億袋方便麪。

說到這,文章筆鋒一轉:然而到了2016年,中國方便麪的銷量卻驟減(tumble)。

But by 2016 those sales had tumbled to 38.5 billion packets, according to the World Instant Noodle Association. That's a drop of almost 17%.
世界方便麪協會數據顯示,到了2016年,方便麪年銷量下降至385億袋,降幅接近17%。

該報道稱,世界其他區域的市場上,方便麪銷量基本穩定,所以這是一個很不尋常的現象。

小編仔細想了想,吃泡麪好像真的成了久遠的回憶,好懷念那熟悉又陌生的味道。

這一有意思的現象已經引發了多家媒體報道:

《商業內幕》:中國農村經濟發展導致方便麪銷量下降

《南華早報》:外賣是什麼?中國人網上點餐更多,方便麪吃得更少

—— 研究人員稱消費者更注重營養價值,不僅僅是填飽肚子

《緬甸時報》:中國的發展扼殺了方便麪產業

從標題中似乎看出了方便麪銷量下降的端倪,下面我們就仔細分析下BBC的報道,看看他們給出的原因。

1. 消費者想要更好的食物

BBC認爲,方便麪在中國銷量大幅下跌,一個重要因素是中國消費者對飲食的期望正在不斷提高。(One factor in the slump could well be that some Chinese consumers are upping their expectations in the dining department.)

BBC援引中國日報的報道說:

"The decline of instant noodle sales shows a shift in China's consumption patterns," said Zhao Ping of the Academy of China Council for the Promotion of International Trade," he told the China Daily. "Consumers are more interested in life quality than just filling their bellies these days."
中國國際貿易促進委員會趙平向《中國日報》介紹:“方便麪銷量下降表明中國的消費模式發生了轉變。如今,與填飽肚子比,消費者更感興趣的是如何提高生活質量。”

你有沒有發現,進餐已經不僅僅是追求“飽腹”,而是一種享受生活的方式。

如今,分享“網紅店”、曬“網紅飲料”變成了朋友圈新時尚。秀色可餐的食物(food porn)琳琅滿目、五花八門,成爲社交媒體上一道風景線。

不好看的食物怎麼能好吃。

除了顏值,大家對食物也有了更“個性化”的追求,開始選擇更健康、更營養、更走心的食物。說到底,是我們的生活水平大幅提高了。

2. 人口遷移:農村勞動力正在返鄉

Until 2014 the number of rural Chinese who had moved to cities had been on the rise. But that trend has now reversed for two consecutive years (and is expected to keep doing so when the 2017 data comes out). 
直到2014年,進城就業的中國農村人口數量一直呈上升態勢。但連續兩年,這一趨勢呈現逆轉,並至少持續到2017年。

Last year 1.7 million fewer migrant workers lived in cities than in 2015, which quite plausibly could be eating into noodle sales. 
2016年,在城市生活的農民工數量比2015年減少了170萬。城市中農村務工人口減少,很可能會侵蝕方便麪的銷量。

幾十年前,農民工人背井離鄉,到城市尋求謀生的機會。他們生活拮据,希望能多攢點錢,寄給遠方的親人。節衣縮食成爲無奈的選擇,一頓飯湊乎一口就過去了。

BBC文章稱,理論上來說,方便麪的一大消費者之一是外來打工者(migrant workers):

They are away from home, often living in cramped conditions with limited cooking facilities, and keen to save as much money as they can to send back to their families.
他們遠離家鄉,生活條件簡陋、烹飪設施有限,希望能多攢點錢寄回家。

而近幾年,農村經濟崛起,越來越多農民收入增長,外出務工不是唯一的致富途徑,城市也不再是農民工人們唯一的選擇。更多人可以留在家鄉建設自己的家園。

3 出行:基礎設施改善,生活習慣改變

中國“新四大發明”(new four inventions)已經享譽世界了:高鐵、移動支付、網購、共享單車。

居於四大發明之首的高鐵的速度約250公里/小時,大大縮減了人們旅途的耗時。

Chinese trains and stations have improved. Journeys are quicker, and the range of food options are far more international - meaning noodle sales on the railways have fallen.
中國的火車和車站環境都改善了,車速更快了。車上食物的種類也更加國際化了,這意味着火車上方便麪的銷量下降了。

以前,乘坐火車時感覺道路漫漫,從西至東動輒耗時三五天,於是很多人在路途中靠方便麪飽腹。

高鐵的普及使得行程縮減爲短短几個小時,乘客們不必在車上充飢了。

此外,坐飛機的人也越來越多了……

And then there is the boom in aviation as middle class Chinese people spend billions flying on domestic and international holidays instead of using trains.
假期裏,中等收入羣體乘飛機(而非乘火車)出遊的開支已達到數十億美元,中國航空市場正迎來空前繁榮。

4 外賣:另外一種“快餐”

About 730 million people in China now have access to the internet according to government figures. And about 95% of those are using smartphones to connect. And apps that offer food delivery to your home, office or wherever you happen to be are a real boom industry.
根據政府部門數據,目前中國互聯網覆蓋人口約爲7.3億。其中95%的人使用智能手機上網。而給用戶住宅、辦公室或其他任何地方提供上門送餐的APP是一項真正繁榮的產業。

如果你問遠在國外的小夥伴們最缺什麼,“外賣”無疑是高票回答之一了。

足不出戶,只需要輕輕動動手指,花費幾十元和半個小時,就算是深夜也能享受到美味,甚至可以擁有在朋友圈“放毒”的特權。這可是國外小夥伴們和外國友人們享受不到的待遇呀!

有了這樣方便快捷的美味,方便麪的“方便”就不再是個獨一無二的優勢了。

這四點原因看下來,覺得還蠻有道理的。

不過,如果你還是放不下泡麪,時不時想吃一碗,但又擔心不健康,那麼下面我們給大家介紹泡麪的5種健康吃法,好吃到爆,要不要試一試?

泡麪的5種健康吃法

➀ 培根雞蛋泡麪

❶ In a small pot, add the chicken broth, a few pieces of sliced tomato, water, chili paste and 1/2 of the flavor packet, and bring to a gentle simmer for 5-7 minutes. Taste and adjust to your liking. Remove from heat.
在小鍋中加入雞湯、幾片西紅柿、水、辣椒醬、一半調料包,小火慢煮5-7分鐘。根據個人喜好調節口味。然後把鍋從火上端走。

❷ Bring water to a boil. Add the noodles, separating them with chopsticks as they soften, about 3 minutes. Drain immediately and place into serving bowl.
燒開水,加入方便麪,煮軟後用筷子分開,3分鐘後濾水取出,放入碗中。

❸ Carefully pour soup over noodles and garnish with bacon, tomato slice, scallions, nori and sesame oil. Cut the boiled egg in half and gently place on top of noodles. Serve immediately.
將湯汁澆在麪條上,點綴上培根、西紅柿片、小蔥、紫菜、麻油。將煮熟的雞蛋切成兩半,溫柔地放在麪條上。開吃吧!

➁ 奶酪黃油泡麪

❶ Bring a pot of water to boil and add noodles. Boil 1 minute, or 1 minute 15 seconds.
鍋裏燒開水,加入方便麪,煮1分鐘到1分15秒鐘。

❷ Drain in a colander and rinse with cold water. Spray a little oil and toss them around.
在濾鍋中濾乾麪條,用涼水衝一遍。澆點油,攪拌一下。

❸ Heat butter in a large saucepan on medium heat and add flour to make a roux. Cook about a minute.
在大鍋中用中火加熱黃油,加入麪粉,製成麪粉糊,煮一分鐘。

❹ Pour in the milk and cook until it becomes frothy and thick, stir occasionally.
倒入牛奶,煮至湯汁粘稠起泡,不時攪拌一下。

❺ Reduce heat to low and gradually add cheese. Add chili paste and salt and stir until cheese is melted.
轉爲小火,加入奶酪。加入辣椒醬、鹽,攪拌至奶酪融化。

❻ Increase heat to medium to medium/low and add noodles. Cook until heated through, about 1-2 minutes. Add milk a tablespoon at a time if you want the sauce to be looser.
轉爲中低火,加入麪條。煮1-2分鐘,讓麪條完全加熱。如果想讓湯汁稀一點,可以一次加一勺牛奶。

➂ 韓式香辣幹拌泡麪

❶ Cook the noodles for about 3 minutes. Drain the noodles and run water over them.
麪條煮三分鐘,濾幹水,用冷水衝一遍。

❷ Combine the spicy Korean chili seasoning, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar and honey. Whisk to mix thoroughly, then toss with the noodles.
將韓式辣椒調味料、醬油、麻油、米醋、蜂蜜充分攪拌,然後和麪條拌勻。

➃ 沙拉乾脆面

❶ In a large bowl mix together cabbage, carrots, onion, chicken, and almonds.
在一個大碗裏放入捲心菜、胡蘿蔔、洋蔥、雞肉、杏仁。

❷ Remove the seasoning packets from the ramen noodle packages and set aside for use in the dressing. Place noodles in a large ziplock bag and crush them with a rolling pin. Add the noodles to the bowl with the cabbage.
把方便麪中的調料包取出,待用。把麪餅放入一個大自封袋,用擀麪杖碾碎,然後將碎面放入蔬菜碗裏。

❸ Mix dressing ingredients — vegetable oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce, white sugar, chicken flavored ramen seasoning packages — together.
把調味料攪拌好,包括植物油、白醋、醬油、白糖、雞肉味方便麪調味包。

❹ Pour desired amount of dressing over salad and toss to combine. Serve immediately.
按照個人口味將適量調味料澆在沙拉上,充分攪拌,開吃吧!

➄ 風味炒麪

❶ Whisk the sauce ingredients — rice vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, brown sugar, minced garlic, minced ginger — together in a bowl and set aside.
將白醋、麻油、醬油、海鮮醬、紅糖、蒜蓉、薑蓉在碗中攪拌均勻,製成調味料備用。

❷ Bring a medium pot of water to boil over high heat, and cook the noodles according to package directions.
將鍋中水煮沸,放入麪餅,按包裝說明煮熟備用。

❸ Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large wok over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the garlic, ginger, mushrooms, broccoli, and peppers, and saute for about a minute.
同時,在炒鍋中放油,燒至七成熱、泛油光,加入蒜、姜、蘑菇、西蘭花、辣椒翻炒約一分鐘。

❹ Add the scrambled egg, if using, and stir until it's mostly set up. Mix in with the vegetables.
加入打散的雞蛋,炒至雞蛋成塊,然後和蔬菜一起翻炒。

❺ Add the noodles. Drizzle the sauce over the stir fry, plus a big pinch of cilantro, and mix well.
加入麪條,大火快炒,澆上醬汁,再加一把香菜,翻炒均勻。

❻ Garnish with scallions and more cilantro before serving.
上桌前撒上小蔥和香菜。

饞了沒?趕緊自己動手做一碗香噴噴的泡麪吧……