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紐約時裝週最難忘的十個瞬間

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Brows that wowed驚人的眉毛The front row is usually abuzz with less-than-salacious chatter: industry gossip, editorial deadlines, how tired everyone feels. But every now and then something comes down the runway that's so shocking that the fashion set can't stop talking about it. This season? The incredible pierced eyebrows at Rodarte.秀場前排通常充斥着不那麼刺激的閒聊:業界八卦、截稿日期、大家都很疲憊之類,但是秀臺上不時也會出現驚人的東西,讓整個時尚圈都談論不休。這一季的話題是羅達特(Rodarte)不可思議的眉環。

紐約時裝週最難忘的十個瞬間


A canine on the catwalk
秀臺上遛狗
And at Hood by Air, someone walked a dog . . . down the runway. The (very large) Great Dane sparked as much conversation as did the Lucite collars around the models' necks.
Hood by Air的秀場有人遛狗……而且是在秀臺上。這隻體型碩大的大丹狗和模特們脖子上戴的透明樹脂項圈都引發了不少話題。

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High-tech touches
高科技
Designers upped the technological ante at fashion shows this past week. Samsung's Gear S smartwatches on the Diesel Black Gold runway were small potatoes compared to Ralph Lauren's 4-D holographic, virtual runway, projected over a pond in Central Park. The fashion show as we know it has been changed forever.
上週的秀場上,設計師們在科技方面投下了賭注。迪賽黑金(Diesel Black Gold)的走秀中使用了三星的Gear S智能手錶,不過和拉夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)相比就遠遠不如了。拉夫·勞倫在中央公園的秀場上採用4-D全息技術,把虛擬秀臺投影在一處池塘上,從此刷新了我們所熟悉的走秀概念。

Little pink house
小粉紅房子
Marc Jacobs's last-minute change of time and venue left everyone wondering what elaborate set he would be constructing this season. Lo and behold, as his guests entered the Park Avenue Armory, they discovered a surprisingly suburban setting — an oversize house surrounded by gravel — in a decidedly ostentatious shade of pink. The bright image dominated Instagram streams for the remainder of the evening.
馬克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)到最後時刻才改變走秀的時間和地點,所有人都在猜測,這一季他精心設計的秀場佈置會是什麼樣子。睜大眼睛看吧,當賓客們走進他在公園大道軍械庫的秀場,便發現一個令人驚訝的城郊風情佈置——一棟大號房子,有着非常招搖的粉紅色調,周圍環繞着灌木。當天晚上,這個明麗的形象傳遍整個Instagram。

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Chlo? serves up lunch
克洛伊提供午餐
The designer-actress Chlo? Sevigny loves a performance. But this season, it was the delicious lunch at the presentation of her Opening Ceremony collection — three courses catered by Roberta's (a Brooklyn pizza joint), including heirloom-tomato-and-burrata panzanella — that stole the show. The combination of fashion and food was a warm welcome to tired editors on the last day of Fashion Week.
設計師兼演員克洛伊·塞維尼(Chlo? Sevigny)喜歡錶演。但是這一季,她的“開幕式”(Open Ceremony)時裝發佈會上,卻是美味的午餐搶盡了風頭。這頓飯由布魯克林披薩店羅伯塔(Roberta's)提供,有三道主菜,包括祖傳西紅柿與巴雷塔奶酪意式麪包沙拉。那天是時裝週的最後一天,對於疲憊的編輯們來說,時尚與美食的結合大受歡迎。
All fashion week's a stage
時裝週上的舞臺劇
nd another buzzy Opening Ceremony presentation: the label's designers, Humberto Leon and Carol Kim, put on a one-act play written by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill. Elle Fanning, Bobby Cannavale, Catherine Keener, John Cameron Mitchell and Dree Hemingway delivered a funny and touching (if not universally admired) performance, complete with a musical number (Drake's "Hold On, We're Going Home").
“開幕式”還有另一場熱鬧的發佈會:品牌設計師休伯託·里昂(Humberto Leon)和卡羅爾·基姆(Carol Kim)把一部斯佩克·瓊斯(Spike Jonze)和喬納·希爾(Jonah Hill)撰寫的獨幕劇搬上了舞臺。參演的有埃拉·範寧(Elle Fanning)、鮑比·坎納瓦爾(Bobby Cannavale)、凱瑟琳娜·基納(Catherine Keener)、約翰·卡梅隆·米歇爾(John Cameron Mitchell)和德里·海明威(Dree Hemingway)。該劇雖然並非人人喜歡,但也非常精彩感人,最後以德雷克(Drake)的一曲《堅持住,我們回家了》(Hold On, We're Going Home)告終。

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Stores galore
好多門店
It wouldn't be Fashion Week without store openings, and New Yorkers celebrated many this season. The first to open its doors was Trademark in SoHo, a highly anticipated brick-and-mortar toasted by the likes of Mary-Kate Olsen and the Proenza Schouler boys. Next and further uptown was Phillip Lim's new flagship in NoHo, followed by the Tod's reopening on Madison Avenue.
沒有門店開幕式還算什麼時裝週,這一季紐約就迎來了不少新門店。第一家開張的是“商標”(Trademark)在蘇活區的門店,它用磚塊和灰泥建造而成,備受期待,瑪麗-凱特·奧爾森(Mary Kate Olsen)和普羅恩薩-施羅(Proenza Schouler)的兩位設計師都表示了祝賀。接下來開張的店在更靠近上城的地方,是林能平(Philip Lim)在NoHo區的旗艦店。然後是託德斯(Tod's)在麥迪遜大街重開的門店。
A buzzy bistro
時髦小餐館
Did anyone even eat this week? The New York schedule is always so jam-packed that the fashion set looks forward to the London/Milan/Paris circuit for its long, leisurely lunches. This week, though, editors were at least talking about making a pit stop at the new bistro on the block: Cherche Midi, which fills the French-dining void left by the closing of Pastis earlier this year.
這星期有人好好吃過飯嗎?紐約時裝週的安排總是那麼滿滿當當的,時尚界人士們都盼着倫敦、米蘭和巴黎時裝週趕快到來,好去享用那些地方漫長閒適的午餐。不過這個星期,編輯們都說要去城裏新開張的小餐館"Cherche Midi"歇歇腳, 它正好填補了今年年初Pastis餐館關門後出現的法國菜空白。

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Pop stars on parade
流行歌星成羣結隊
It seemed like every party this week featured a big-name musical artist. From Iggy Azalea and Rita Ora at Calvin Klein's fragrance launch party to Jillian Banks at the Phillip Lim store opening to St. Vincent at the Versus after-party, social media platforms felt more like an MTV Top-10 video roundup than a Fashion Week feed.
這星期所有派對裏似乎都有音樂界的大人物出現。從凱文·克萊因(Calvin Klein)香氛發佈會上的伊基·阿澤莉亞(Iggy Azalea)和瑞塔·奧拉(Rita Ora),到林能平門店開張儀式上的吉莉安·班克斯(Jillian Banks),再到範瑟絲(Versus)慶功派對上的聖文森特(St. Vincent),看社交媒體平臺的感覺不像時裝週的消息報道,倒像是MTV十大音樂錄像綜述。
RiRi makes the rounds
蕾小姐四處走動
Last season in Paris, it was hard to go to a show without seeing Rihanna in the front row. The same thing happened again this season in New York. Her appearances at shows like Edun, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra and Adam Selman meant for multiple outfit changes, which monopolized street style coverage. Miss RiRi is either a total fashion addict or gunning for a market director job at a glossy title.
上一季在巴黎,幾乎每場秀的前排都能看到蕾哈娜(Rihanna)的身影。這一季的紐約也是如此。她出現在Edun、王大仁(Alexander Wang)、奧圖扎拉(Altuzarra)和亞當·塞爾曼(Adam Selman)等品牌的秀場,意味着她要換很多行頭,而且壟斷了街拍報道。蕾小姐不是對時裝上癮,就是想拼命找份光鮮的市場經理工作。

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