Sephora絲芙蘭如何在中國打假

Cosmetics retailer Sephora announced today in Beijing that it opened an online “flagship” store on , Alibaba’s rival, in part to reassure Chinese consumers they are buying authentic make-up in a country where around up to 20% of the cosmetics market is counterfeit.

化妝品零售商絲芙蘭日前在北京宣佈，在阿里巴巴的競爭對手京東商城上開設了網絡旗艦店，一部分原因是：確保中國消費者購買的彩妝產品是正品。在中國，化妝品市場約20％的份額被假貨充斥着。

“We’ve seen the effort by that they value authenticity, Helen Zhou, vice president of marketing and e-commerce for Sephora China, said in an interview today.

日前，負責市場營銷和電子商務的絲芙蘭中國區副總裁海倫o周在採訪中表示：“我們看到了京東堅持銷售正品的努力。”

China’s government has recently zeroed in on fighting online fakes to reassure the country’s online shoppers who increasingly desire authentic, brand name goods. China’s State Administration for Industry and Commerce said this spring it is intensifying penalties for online shops selling fakes and increasing fines to make “traders who sell such goods unable to continue operations or go bankrupt,” SAIC’s head Zhang Mao said.

近來，中國政府重點打擊網上售假，以打消網購者的疑慮，網購者越來越希望買到名牌正品。今春，中國國家工商行政管理總局稱，會加強對網店售假的處罰，提高罰款額度，工商總局局長張茅表示，要使售假企業“無法經營”，甚至被罰得“傾家蕩產”。

Sephora, which is part of French luxury goods group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA , said choosing as a partner came down to the company’s reputation for selling genuine products and its logistics: if Sephora keeps inventory at JD’s warehouses they could offer same-day delivery in 130 Chinese districts and counties (for now, Sephora will run its own inventory except in Shanghai).

絲芙蘭隸屬於法國路威酩軒奢侈品集團旗下，它說之所以選擇京東商城作爲合作伙伴，一是因爲京東堅持銷售正品的良好聲譽，二是因爲該公司的物流。如果絲芙蘭將庫存放在京東的倉庫裏，將能在全國130個區縣實現當日送達（在上海以外地區，絲芙蘭暫時仍將自行管理庫存）。

A few years ago Sephora wasn’t interested in expanding online in China, according to Zhou. It watched the way Chinese online shoppers gravitated toward sale offers, before considering brand or quality, and decided that wasn’t a fit for the retailer that sells brands like Dior, Guerlain and e then, the rise of Alibaba’s platforms and have made shopping for trusted brands about more than price in China. But fakes remain a problem.

海倫o周表示，幾年前，絲芙蘭尚無意在中國開設網店。當時，該公司看到中國網購者多被降價促銷吸引，而不大考慮商品品牌和質量，因此決定，作爲一家銷售迪奧、嬌蘭和紀梵希等高端品牌的零售商，其不適合在中國開設網店。自那以來，阿里巴巴旗下平臺以及京東商城的興起，使網購者將購買值得信賴的品牌作爲比價格更重要的考慮因素。但假貨問題仍然存在。

Earlier this year a Chinese regulator criticized Alibaba for the number of counterfeit goods it found on Taobao. The regulator contended only 19 of 51 items it bought on the consumer-to-consumer marketplace were genuine, creating a very public spat between Alibaba and its government accuser. (The regulator eventually removed the critical report from its website.) Taobao hosts 8 million sellers and Alibaba says it spends more than $16 million a year fighting piracy.

今年早些時候，監管機構工商總局批評阿里巴巴旗下的淘寶網上假冒僞劣商品衆多，稱在抽查的51件淘寶商品中，僅有19件是正品。阿里巴巴因此公開與工商總局辯論。（工商總局最終將相關報告從該局網站上刪除。）淘寶上有800萬賣家，阿里巴巴表示每年在打擊盜版上花費超過1600萬美元。

, meanwhile, generates over half its revenue from selling goods in its own warehouses, like Amazon, and only has about 60,000 merchants on its separate marketplace platform—which the company says allows it to better regulate fakes.

與此同時，同亞馬遜一樣，京東半數以上的收入來自銷售自營商品，其平臺業務與自營業務分開，而且僅入駐了約6萬家第三方賣家。京東稱，這使其能更好地杜絕售假。

Even on platforms where brands sell directly to consumers, genuine products aren’t guaranteed. SAIC also said six of seven items from Alibaba’s , where brands host their own stores, were authentic; 18 of 20 from and 9 of 10 from online food retailer , in which Wal-Mart owns a controlling stake.

即便在那些品牌直銷的平臺上，也無法保證100%都是正品。工商總局稱，在阿里巴巴天貓平臺上的品牌自營店中，抽檢的7件商品中，有6件是正品；京東抽檢的20件商品中，有18件是正品，而從沃爾瑪控股的網上食品零售商一號店抽檢的10件商品中，有9件是正品。

Jumei International, an online make-up retailer based in Beijing and traded on the New York Stock Exchange, abandoned its third-party marketplace business entirely last fall because of the difficultly of policing fakes. It now includes codes on the products it sells to verify their provenance. “We have to go the extra mile with consumers,” co-Chief Financial Officer Mona Meng Gao told Bloomberg last week.

由於打假難度很大，去年秋天，總部設在北京並在紐交所上市的在線化妝品零售商聚美優品，徹底關閉了其第三方平臺業務。現在，聚美在自己銷售的商品上打碼，以確保其來源可靠。公司聯席首席財務官高孟向彭博表示：“爲了消費者，我們必須做出額外的努力。”

Sephora may be among the brands benefiting most from the new focus on authenticity. Cosmetics are relatively easy to counterfeit, which explains why you see luxury brands trading at steep discounts in small shops around China and creeping into online marketplaces.

絲芙蘭可能是從消費者開始關注正品問題中獲益最大的品牌之一。化妝品相對容易僞造，在中國各地的小商店和網店裏，總能看到“奢侈品牌”超低價銷售，原因就在此。

Sephora and Jumei can warn consumers of the dangers of fakes—high levels of lead, mercury and other metals for one—but they still need to offer alternatives. Sephora’s “store” on , replete with the retailer’s black and white- striped designs, is its newest offering.

絲芙蘭和聚美可以提醒消費者使用假貨存在危險，比如假貨往往鉛、汞等重金屬超標。但他們也需要爲消費者提供替代方案。京東上的絲芙蘭官方旗艦店（充斥着絲芙蘭標誌性的黑白條紋設計）就是絲芙蘭呈獻給消費者的全新選項。