老格林威治，和睦古樸的海濱社區
One night last Month, Lesley King received a Facebook message that reflected what she considers one of the finest qualities of Old Greenwich: a connected community.
上個月的一天晚上，萊斯利·金(Lesley King)收到一條Facebook訊息，這件事體現出老格林威治(Old Greenwich)在她看來最好的一面：這是個很團結的社區。Her new business, Back 40 Mercantile, an upscale general store for the eco-conscious, had opened that day in the small commercial center called "the village." (Ms. King is an owner with family members.) She had closed up shop only a few hours before. The Facebook message arrived around 9: A man she barely knew wanted her to know that he had spotted a candle still burning in the shop.
她新開的Back 40 Mercantile是一家高級雜貨店，客戶多爲有環保意識的人羣。這家商店那天剛剛在一個名爲the village的小型商業中心開業（店主是金和她的家人）。她在幾個小時前纔剛剛結束營業，收到這條Facebook訊息的時候大約是9點：那是一個她不大認識的人。他就是想讓她知道，他看見她的店裏還點着一隻蠟燭。
A resident of Old Greenwich since 2001, Ms. King says that sort of neighborly outreach is the custom in a community where people's yards don't extend much beyond their houses.
金從2001年起就成了老格林威治的居民。她說，在這樣一個各家的屋外庭院都伸不出多遠的社區裏，那種從鄰里間延伸出來的相互關照，已經成了一種風俗。
At the home she shares with her husband, Bill, and their four children, the swing set sits in the front yard, an open invitation to youngsters walking by. That might not pass muster in the parts of Greenwich that take pride in pristine, gated isolation, but the culture of Old Greenwich is better expressed by the prevalence of front porches.
在她與丈夫比爾(Bill)及四個孩子共同居住的家裏，前院安裝了一副鞦韆，這對於路過的孩子們來說就是個公開的邀請。那樣的設施在格林威治一些以古樸守舊、門禁森嚴爲傲的地方，可能是不合要求的；但在這裏，隨處可見的前院門廊卻更好地體現了老格林威治的文化。"The best thing about Old Greenwich," Ms. King said, "is that everybody lives in houses close to each other."
“老格林威治最好的地方，”金說，“就是大家都住得很近。”A census-designated place with its own ZIP code, Old Greenwich occupies the southeastern edge of the town of Greenwich, bordering Stamford and extending into Long Island Sound. A summer beach resort in the 19th century, it takes in a large peninsula that tapers into a spit prized townwide as a public recreation area. Officially, the 147-acre site is called Greenwich Point Park; unofficially, it is known as Tod's Point, after a banker who once had an estate there.
老格林威治社區位於格林威治鎮的西北部邊緣，與斯坦福德(Stamford)交界，並伸入長島灣(Long Island Sound)，是一個有單獨郵政編碼的普查指定居民區。這裏作爲19世紀的夏季海濱度假地，下轄一座漸成細長岬角的大半島，是全鎮居民都鍾愛有加的一處公共娛樂場所。這片佔地147英畝（約60公頃）的地方，正式的名稱是“格林威治岬角公園”(Greenwich Point Park)；而私下裏，人們則稱之爲“託德岬角”(Tod's Point)，名稱取自一位曾在此地置業的銀行家。If Old Greenwich feels less guarded than some other areas of town, it is hardly bohemian. Single-family homes in decent shape start at around $1 million, with the occasional exception; new construction can run millions more. Private neighborhood associations maintain their own beach areas and put fence sections in their roads to slow traffic. Local tastes are reflected in the wares at Back 40 Mercantile like Himalayan pink salt and $64 flip-flops.
老格林威治雖然感覺上沒有該鎮其它區域那麼戒備森嚴，但也不是很波西米亞。那些獨門獨戶、打理得非常體面的房屋，起價大約爲100萬美元（約合人民幣614萬元），偶有例外；而新建的房屋則有可能高達數百萬美元。一些民間社區協會維護着他們自己的海灘區域，並在道路上設置了一些路障來減慢車速。當地人的品味反映在諸如Back 40 Mercantile這樣的小店裏，比如喜馬拉雅粉紅巖鹽，和價格64美元（約合人民幣393元）的人字拖。The housing market is just now emerging from a nearly two-year slump induced by Hurricane Sandy. Flooding in low-lying areas and a wind-driven fire that destroyed three waterfront mansions "left a bit of a scar," said Gary Cunningham, a former stockbroker who now develops single-family homes in Old Greenwich and is the managing partner of Core Properties.
這裏的房地產市場經歷了颶風桑迪(Hurricane Sandy)造成的將近兩年的疲軟，現在正慢慢復甦。低窪地帶的洪澇災害，與一場摧毀了三棟海濱豪宅的借風起勢的大火，“給這裏留下了一點傷疤，”曾擔任股票經紀人、如今在老格林威治開發獨棟房屋並擔任Core Properties地產公司執行合夥人的蓋裏·坎寧安(Gary Cunningham)說。Uncertainty around the Federal Emergency Management Agency's flood zone remapping and new insurance rates also caused buyers to temporarily back off. These fears appear to be easing, however, Mr. Cunningham said. And he is further encouraged by recent revisions to the town's building regulations for flood zones.
聯邦緊急事務管理局(Federal Emergency Management Agency)的洪水區域重新勘測工作仍未確定，而新的保險費率也導致買家們暫時退避三舍。然而，這些擔憂似乎正在減輕，坎寧安說。而且該鎮最近爲洪水區修改的建築規程，也讓他愈發受到鼓舞。If the last three months are any indication, buyer confidence is back in a big way. Since June, at least four waterfront properties have traded above $6 million; the most expensive, a 7,700-square-foot colonial on Greenwich Cove, closed at $13.05 million.
如果最近三個月的情況是一種預兆的話，那麼可以說，買家的信心正在大幅提升。自6月份起，至少有四棟海濱房產的交易金額超過600萬美元（約合人民幣3686萬元）；其中售價最貴的是一棟位於格林威治灣(Greenwich Cove)、面積7700平方英尺（約715平方米）的殖民地風格住宅，成交金額爲1305萬美元（約合人民幣8017萬元）。What You'll Find
這裏有什麼？The heart of Old Greenwich (population 6,600) is its business district on Sound Beach Avenue, the main thoroughfare. The look is small-town America: rows of shops beneath colorful awnings, benches for sitting, plentiful flowerpots. Most of the businesses are independently owned.
老格林威治（人口6600人）的中心地帶，是位於主幹道桑德海灘大道(Sound Beach Avenue)的一片商業區。那裏看上去是典型美國小鎮的樣子：一排排商店掛着五顏六色的雨棚，到處都是長椅可供坐下休息，還有大量的盆栽花卉。那些店面大多數是獨立經營的。"People get very upset when they get a hint of national chains coming in," said David Rafferty, the president of the Old Greenwich Association. The district has seen its share of empty storefronts over the years; maintaining enough support to keep businesses going is a challenge, Mr. Rafferty said. These days, however, more residents are opening businesses themselves. In addition to Back 40, the district has gained a dog groomer and a bakery and cafe, Sweet Pea's Baking Company.
“人們一旦得知有哪個全國連鎖店要進駐，就會變得很不滿，”老格林威治委員會(Old Greenwich Association)的主席戴維·拉弗蒂(David Rafferty)說。該區域這些年來一直存在一定比例的空置店面；維持足夠的消費水平以保證這些店面的運營是一項挑戰，拉弗蒂說。但是近來，有更多居民開始自己營業了。除了那家Back 40商店之外，該區域還新增了一家愛犬美容店和一家烘焙食品與咖啡店Sweet Pea's Baking Company。The area also has its own train station, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the privately run Perrot Memorial Library. Nearby is 32-acre Binney Park, a green oasis with a duck pond and footbridges.
這個區域還有一座自己的火車站，已被列入國家史蹟名錄(National Register of Historic Places)，另有一座私人運營的佩洛特紀念圖書館(Perrot Memorial Library)。附近還有一座面積32英畝（約13公頃）的賓尼公園(Binney Park)，那裏是一片綠洲，有一座鴨子池塘和幾座人行小橋。Interstate 95 and Route 1 slice through Old Greenwich. Properties above Route 1 are generally less grand and less expensive than those below, which are closer to both shopping and the water.
95號州際公路(Interstate 95)和1號線(Route 1)都貫穿了老格林威治。1號線下游的房產一般比上游的更貴、更豪華，因爲那裏更靠近購物區，離海邊也更近。What You'll Pay
要花多少錢？Of the 2,260 housing units in Old Greenwich, about 2,000 are single-family detached houses, according to United States census data. As of the end of July, 78 sales had closed year to date, down slightly from the same period last year, according to data provided by Charles Nedder, an agent with Coldwell Banker. The median sales price was up about 3 percent over the same period last year, at $1.379 million.
據美國的普查數據，在老格林威治的2260棟房屋之中，大約有2000棟是單戶式的獨立住宅。而據科威國際不動產(Coldwell Banker)的一位經紀人查爾斯·內德(Charles Nedder)提供的數據，至7月底，今年上半年已經成交了78筆交易，比去年同期略有下降。而房屋銷售的中間價格爲137.9萬美元（約合人民幣847.2萬元），比去年同期上漲了大約3%。North of Route 1, the postwar subdivision of Havemeyer Park retains many of its original Capes and colonials, though teardowns are increasing. Older homes start in the high $700,000s, Mr. Nedder said. Below Route 1, $2 million is the more likely entry point for the four- or five-bedroom homes commonly sought by young families, said Rob Johnson, an agent with Halstead Property.
在1號線上遊路段的哈夫邁耶公園(Havemeyer Park)戰後住宅區，雖然遭到拆除的房屋數量還在不斷增加，但也保留了許多原來的科德角(Capes)風格與殖民地風格的房屋。老式住宅的起售價接近80萬美元（約合人民幣491.5萬元），內德說。而在1號線的下游路段，通常適合年輕家庭的那些四居室或五居室住宅，更有可能以200萬美元（約合人民幣1228.7萬元）的價格起售，哈爾斯泰德地產公司(Halstead Property)的一位經紀人羅伯·約翰遜(Rob Johnson)說。New construction is another story. A quarter-acre lot with a teardown property goes for $1.2 million to $1.5 million, which means builders must price their properties at upward of $3 million, Mr. Cunningham said.
新開發的住宅則是另一種情況。一塊四分之一英畝（約合1012平方米）的土地帶一棟拆遷房，售價在120萬美元（約合人民幣737.2萬元）至150萬美元（約合人民幣921.5萬元）之間。這意味着承建商們必須將他們的房產價格擡高至300萬美元（約合人民幣1843萬元），坎寧安說。Condominiums at Old Greenwich Gables range from one-bedrooms, generally priced in the $500,000s, to three-bedrooms in the $900,000s, according to Mr. Johnson. At the Common, a ‘70s-era complex, unrenovated alcove studios go for as low as $270,000, and renovated two-bedrooms go up to the high $400s, according to Peter Hoyt, an agent with William Raveis.
在老格林威治的蓋博大廈(Old Greenwich Gables)，共管公寓的一般價格從單臥室的50萬美元（約合人民幣307萬元），至三臥室的90萬美元（約合人民幣553萬元）不等，據約翰遜說。而在Common這棟70年代的綜合大樓中，壁龕大小的未翻修單間公寓，售價可低至27萬美元（約合人民幣165.9萬元），而翻修過的兩居室公寓的售價要將近50萬美元（約合人民幣307.2萬元），據William Raveis房地產公司的一位經紀人彼得·霍伊特(Peter Hoyt)說。What to Do
可以做什麼？Greenwich Point is the hub for outdoor activity. With panoramic views of the Sound, the park is used for swimming, fishing, sailing, picnicking, hiking and cycling. Seasonal park passes are available to town residents for $31; for those without passes or for nonresidents, daily entry is $25 a vehicle plus $6 a person.
格林威治岬角(Greenwich Point)是戶外運動的集散地。這座公園擁有海灣的全景，被用於游泳、釣魚、出海、野炊、徒步和騎行。鎮上居民購買公園季票的價格爲31美元（約合人民幣190.5元）；對於非本地居民或沒有季票的人，一日的門票是25美元（約合人民幣153.6元）/車，6美元（約合人民幣36.9元）/人。格林威治岬角公園的海灘上。
A seasonal farmers market is held Wednesday afternoons in the parking lot of the Presbyterian Church.每週三下午，在基督教長老會教堂(Presbyterian Church)的停車場會有當季的農貿市場。
The private Innis Arden Golf Club has an 18-hole golf course, swimming pools and tennis. The Rocky Point Club, also members-only, offers swimming and sailing.私營的高爾夫俱樂部Innis Arden Golf Club，有一座18洞的高爾夫球場，還有幾座游泳池和網球場。同樣是會員制的“岩石岬角俱樂部”(Rocky Point Club)可供游泳與航海。
The Commute通勤方式
The Metro-North train ride to Grand Central Terminal takes about an hour. A monthly pass is $276 at the station. Parking permits at Old Greenwich station cost $407 annually. It takes two to three years for applicants to get to the top of the waiting list, according to a spokesman for the town's department of parking services.地鐵北線(Metro-North)的列車大約1小時可到達中央車站(Grand Central Terminal)。北線車站的月票售價爲276美元（約合人民幣1695.6元）。老格林威治車站的停車許可證年費爲407美元（約合人民幣2500.4元），但據該鎮停車服務辦的一位發言人說，申請者要花2至3年時間才能排入候選者清單的前列。
The SchoolsAbout 370 students in kindergarten to Grade 5 attend the Old Greenwich School. Eastern Middle School, with about 780 students, serves Grades 6 through 8. Greenwich High School, with an enrollment of about 2,600, offers more than 300 courses, including 25 advanced placement classes, and fields 42 varsity teams.
老格林威治學校(Old Greenwich School)從幼兒園至五年級有大約370名學生。中東學校(Eastern Middle School)提供6至8年級的教育，約有780名在校生。格林威治高中的在校生約爲2600名，該校提供了超過300門課程，包括25個進階選修課程，併成立了42支校隊。Mean SAT scores for the class of 2013 (the most recent year available) were 559 for reading, 585 for math, and 571 for writing, compared with the state means of 499, 503 and 504. Ninety percent of the class of 2013 went on to attend college, according to a spokesman for the school district.
2013屆學生的平均SAT成績（目前可查的最新數據）是閱讀559分，數學585分，寫作571分，而這幾項成績的州平均分爲499，503和504。據該校區的一位發言人說，2013屆的學生有90%都進入了大學。The History
歷史沿革Old Greenwich, which was the original town of Greenwich, as it was the first area settled by Europeans, has undergone several name changes. According to the town historical society, in the mid-1800s, Greenwich was used to designate the central part of town, and the original Greenwich was renamed Greenwich, Old Town.
老格林威治經歷了幾次名稱變更，此地就是最初的格林威治鎮，因爲這裏是第一處歐洲人定居地。據該鎮歷史協會(town historical society)的資料，在19世紀中期，“格林威治”常指的是小鎮的中心地帶，於是最早的格林威治就更名爲了“格林威治老城區”(Greenwich, Old Town)。
In 1872, to draw summer tourists to the shoreline inns, the area was called Sound Beach. But public access to the shoreline gradually diminished, and in 1931 the beach moniker was dropped in favor of Old Greenwich.到了1872年，爲將夏季遊客吸引到海邊旅館來，該地區被稱爲桑德海灘(Sound Beach)。但後來，公共海灘的面積逐漸減少，於是到了1931年，海灘的稱號逐漸被“老格林威治”取代了。
