寧夏能否成爲下一個納帕谷 甚至波爾多

On a fall evening in a fluorescent-lit classroom at Tsinghua University in Beijing, a dozen students listened intently. The speaker, Emma Gao, held a glass to the light and asked them to study the swirling liquid inside. Tsinghua is known as the “M.I.T. of China,” but this was no freshman seminar in fluid mechanics. It was a gathering of the student wine club.

一個秋天的晚上，北京清華大學一個帶日光燈照明的房間裏，十幾個學生正認真地聽着講座。發言者高源(Emma Gao)把一隻玻璃杯迎向光線，讓學生們仔細觀察杯中打旋的液體。清華大學素有“中國的麻省理工學院”之稱，但眼前並不是一年級新生的流體力學課，而是學生葡萄酒俱樂部的活動。

Ms. Gao, a diminutive woman with a quick smile, was conducting a tasting of recent vintages from her family-run winery in Ningxia, a remote Chinese region on the edge of the Gobi Desert. Behind desktops lined with glasses, the students sniffed and sipped, comparing a fruity red with a richer, oakier French-style wine.

高女士個子不高，笑容乾脆，這些酒產自她家族經營的葡萄酒莊。酒莊位於戈壁沙漠邊遠的寧夏，一箇中國偏遠的省份，此時她組織學生們品嚐的，正是她家酒莊裏近期出產的葡萄酒。桌子後面放着一排玻璃杯，學生們輕嗅、小口品嚐，對比一種果香紅酒與另一種味道更濃郁，帶有橡木清香的法國式葡萄酒。

Since her winery has begun to win international acclaim, Ms. Gao, who is 38, has emerged as the unlikely new star of an even more unlikely new Chinese industry. The winery, Silver Heights, has been a pioneer in China, bringing sophisticated Western winemaking techniques to what had been an industry focused on bulk production.

高女士今年38歲，她的酒廠已經開始贏得國際聲譽，因此她也成了是這個看似不可思議的中國新產業當中一顆不可思議的新星。她的酒莊“銀色高地”是中國葡萄酒業的先驅，把精密成熟的西方釀酒技術帶入了中國釀酒業這個關注大批量生產的產業。

Taking a cue from that boutique-winery model, Ningxia has ambitions to become the Napa Valley of China. Local winemakers have won prestigious awards, and plans are underway to double the region’s vineyards and create a wine tourism hub. Foreign investors have also taken notice. The French Champagne maker & Chandon makes sparkling wines there, while the spirits giant Pernod Ricard is spending heavily to modernize its local winery.

寧夏受精品釀酒業模式啓發，想把自己打造成中國的納帕谷(Napa Valley)。當地釀酒廠已經獲得了不少著名大獎，此外將當地酒莊數目翻倍，打造葡萄酒旅遊中心的方案也在醞釀之中。外國投資者亦注意到了此地。法國香檳製造者酩悅( & Chandon)公司在這裏生產起泡酒，烈性酒巨頭保樂力加(Pernod Ricard)也投下鉅額資金，爲公司在當地的酒廠打造現代化設施。

“People know Napa makes the best wines in America and Bordeaux makes the best wines in France,” says Hao Linhai, a top regional official who oversees the industry. “When they think of Chinese wines, we want them to think of Ningxia.”

“人們知道美國最好的葡萄酒產自納帕，法國最好的葡萄酒產自波爾多，”當地負責酒業的最高官員郝林海說。“我們希望人們一提起中國葡萄酒，就能想到寧夏。”

While China is better known for fiery, 100-proof baijiu than prized vintages, its fast-growing middle class is increasingly demanding Western delights. And that includes fine wine.

不過中國更有名的還要算是酒精在50%含量的烈性白酒，而不是昂貴的葡萄酒，但如今中國飛速發展的中產階級也在日益追求西方享受。包括精緻的葡萄酒。

Chinese drinkers quaffed more than 1.5 billion bottles of red wine in 2014, double the level of 2008, according to IWSR, a research firm based in London. Over all, China ranks fourth in red wine consumption, behind France, the United States and Italy. Wine production in the country has surged to meet that demand. From virtually nothing in the early 1980s, it is now the world’s seventh-largest winemaker.

根據倫敦調查公司IWSR的數據，2014年，中國飲酒者消費了超過15億瓶的紅酒，比2008年增加了一倍。中國的紅酒總消費位居全球第四，僅次於法國、美國和意大利。爲了滿足需求，中國的葡萄酒產量也在上升。20世紀80年代初，中國的葡萄酒產量接近於零，如今已經是世界第七的葡萄酒生產國。

Aided by the same long-range planning and government support that have brought success in everything from textiles to high-end electronics, China made 120 million cases of wine in 2014. That’s a bit less than a third of what is produced in the United States, and just behind the export powerhouses Australia and Argentina.

從紡織業到高端電子工業，中國的許多產業都受惠於長期計劃與政府支持，葡萄酒產業亦是如此，2014年，中國的葡萄酒產量達到1.2億箱。比美國葡萄酒產量的1/3低一點，略低於澳大利亞和阿根廷兩個出口大國。

But Chinese wine is made almost exclusively for the domestic market, says Ma Huiqin, a professor at China Agricultural University in Beijing who works closely with Ningxia’s wine industry. And until recently, most of it was barely drinkable by Western standards, produced by giant industrial winemakers.

但是，中國的葡萄酒主要是供給國內市場的，位於北京的中國農業大學教授馬慧琴說，她與寧夏的葡萄酒產業保持着密切合作。直到前不久，中國的大部分葡萄酒還是由大型工業化酒廠生產，很難達到西方的飲用標準。

Now a new generation of Chinese winemakers is trying to upgrade quality in an effort to win over local wine drinkers as their tastes become more discerning, as well as capture the aficionados who drink mostly imports from France, America and elsewhere. And eventually, as with many other Chinese industries, the most successful will look to sell their wines overseas.

如今，新一代中國葡萄酒釀造者努力提升質量，以圖滿足品味變得更加敏銳的國內葡萄酒消費者，同時吸引那些主要喝法國和美國等地進口葡萄酒的資深愛好者們。並且和許多其他中國產業一樣，自己的產品能夠銷往海外是他們心目中最大的成功。

“They’ve got all the money in the world, they’ve got all the ambition in the world, and they’ve hired all the top consultants,” says Steven Spurrier, the British wine merchant who organized the “Judgment of Paris,” the 1976 blind tasting that stunned the wine world when California wines beat the French. “It’s inevitable the Chinese are going to make better and better wines.”

“他們有的是錢，有的是雄心壯志，還僱了很多頂級顧問，”英國葡萄酒商史蒂芬·斯珀里爾(Steven Spurrier)說。他是“巴黎評審”(Judgment of Paris)的組織者，這場1976年的葡萄酒盲品活動曾經評定加利福尼亞葡萄酒優於法國葡萄酒，令整個葡萄酒界都爲之震驚。“中國的葡萄酒會愈來愈好，這是毋庸置疑的。”

Sitting in the courtyard of her family’s ramshackle compound outside the regional capital of Yinchuan, Ms. Gao of Silver Heights looked out over the vineyard her father planted nearly 20 years ago. Among the first in the region to plant grapes, he suggested she go to France to study winemaking in 1999. “I was 21. I said, sure, why not?” she said. “It was France that interested me, not winemaking.”

在寧夏首府銀川的郊外，銀色高地酒莊的高源坐在自家一處破敗的院落裏，望着她父親將近20年前種下的葡萄園。他是這一帶第一批種植葡萄的人，1999年，他建議高源去法國學習釀製葡萄酒。“我那年21歲。我說，好吧，爲什麼不呢？”她說。“我其實是對法國感興趣，而不是釀酒。”

After earning a degree in oenology, she did a stint at the highly regarded Calon-Ségur, where she met, and eventually married, the winemaker. French attitudes made a deep impression. “I learned to focus on quality, to make the best wine you can with the material you have,” she said.

獲得酒類研究學位後，她在享有盛名的凱隆世家酒莊工作了一段，和那裏的釀酒師相識，最後嫁給了他。法國的態度對她產生了深深的影響。“我學會了關注質量，用手頭的原料釀出最好的葡萄酒，”她說。

After Ms. Gao returned to China, the first vintage she and her father produced in 2007 was just 10 barrels, or 3,000 bottles. Today, Ms. Gao makes four wines, with total production of 60,000 bottles. A 2013 bottle of her Summit label sells for around $75.

高女士回中國後，2007年，她和父親釀出的第一批葡萄酒只有十桶，合3000瓶。如今高女士的酒莊生產四種葡萄酒，總產量達到6萬瓶。銀色高地出品的一瓶2013年的“闕歌”(Summit)葡萄酒售價在75美元左右。

“She’s considered the best winemaker, with practically the best wine, in all of China,” says Gérard Colin, a French consultant who helped Lafite Rothschild develop a winery in China. “Emma put Ningxia on the map.”

“她已被視爲中國最好的釀酒者，她出品的葡萄酒幾乎也是中國最好的，”傑拉德·科林(Gérard Colin)是幫助拉菲古堡酒莊( Lafite Rothschild)在中國建立酒莊的法國顧問，他說，“艾瑪（高源的英文名）讓寧夏進入了世界酒莊的版圖。”

A poor coal region wedged below Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, with its hilly, arid scrubland, is ill suited for most agriculture. It’s dry and hot in the summer, with long, freezing winters. But its sandy, rocky soil proved ideal for growing grapes. The Helan Mountains to the west protect the vineyards from harsh desert winds, while cool nights keep the grapes from ripening too fast.

寧夏曾是一個貧瘠的煤礦產區，位於內蒙南部，地形多山，氣候乾旱，生着灌木叢，不適合大部分農作物。夏季炎熱乾燥，冬季漫長寒冷。但多砂堅硬的土地卻非常適合種植葡萄。西部的賀蘭山脈可以保護葡萄園不受凜冽的沙漠風暴侵襲，寒冷的夜晚可以讓葡萄不至生長得過快。

Eager to create a new industry, the regional government built extensive irrigation systems starting in the late 1990s and put winemaking at the center of development plans. In 2005, the government helped start the area’s first “demonstration” winery, Helan Qingxue.

地方政府渴望打造新產業，自20世紀90年代末起，開始修建大量的灌溉系統，把釀酒業作爲發展計劃的核心。2005年，政府幫助建造了這一地區的第一個“示範”酒莊：賀蘭晴雪。

A major turning point came in 2011 when Helan Qingxue won a gold medal in a prestigious international competition by the British wine publication Decanter. A 2009 bottle of its Jia Bei Lan was named best red Bordeaux varietal over 10, beating out rivals from Napa, Australia and Bordeaux.

2011年，賀蘭晴雪在英國葡萄酒雜誌《醇鑑》(Decanter)主辦的國際大賽上獲金獎，這成了重要的轉折點。一瓶2009年的加貝蘭紅酒被評爲10英鎊以上級最佳波爾多品種級紅酒，擊敗了來自納帕、澳大利亞與波爾多的競爭對手。

Suddenly, what had been a slow buildup turned into a stampede. The award “made people realize that wine could be a great business,” said Guo Xiaoheng, a native of the region who trained as a sommelier in France before returning to sell winemaking equipment. Demand — and prices — for Ningxia’s wines began to take off.

突然之間，這裏的葡萄酒業出現了厚積薄發。這個獎項“讓人們發現葡萄酒可以成爲一項大買賣，”當地人郭曉恆（音譯）說，他曾在法國接受斟酒師培訓，回國後開始賣釀酒設備。對寧夏葡萄酒的需求開始上漲，其價格也隨之水漲船高。

A decade ago, Ningxia had just a handful of wineries. Today, there are more than 70, with 40 more under construction, and the government plans to reach 200 by 2020. As elsewhere in China, red wines dominate, mostly the Bordeaux blends — principally mixtures of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc — popular in China.

10年前，寧夏只有寥寥幾個酒莊。如今，這裏已經有70多個酒莊，還有40多個正在建設之中，政府計劃在2020年讓這一數字達到200個。和中國其他地方一樣，這裏以紅酒爲主，多數是在中國流行的波爾多混合品種，混合了赤霞珠、梅洛和品麗珠三種葡萄。

Jancis Robinson, a British wine journalist, judged a blind tasting of Chinese wines in Shanghai last year. “Ningxia really did shine. They produced most of the top wines,” she said. They are now “very acceptable commercial quality wines.”

去年，英國葡萄酒記者傑西斯·羅賓遜(Jancis Robinson)在上海盲品了若干中國葡萄酒。“寧夏葡萄酒真的很突出。他們生產了大多最好的葡萄酒，”她說。現在它們已經是“擁有非常可以接受的商業品質的葡萄酒”。

For Ms. Gao, that’s not good enough. Early one morning in May, she drove an hour out to the Helan Mountain foothills, where she is building a winery with more advanced equipment. The expanded vineyards will allow Silver Heights to grow to 200,000 bottles per year.

對於高源來說，這還不夠。五月的一個清晨，她開車一小時來到賀蘭山腳下，她正在那裏興建一座擁有更先進設備的酒莊。這座擴建的酒莊將令銀色高地的產量增長到每年20萬瓶。

Surveying the waist-high vines jutting from the rocky soil, she said it takes five years or more before they produce the quality she requires. In a nearby plot, she has begun to experiment with pinot noir, chardonnay and other varietals.

她觀察着岩石土壤中生長出來的齊腰的葡萄，說至少還要再過五年，這些葡萄結出的果實才能達到她所需要的質量。在附近的一塊地，她已經開始嘗試黑皮諾和霞多麗等品種的葡萄。

“We want to try the land, to see what’s suitable,” she says. “We are not investing for one or two years; we’re investing for the next 100 years. Those will be wines for future generations to make.”

“我們希望測試這塊土地，看看種什麼纔是最合適的，”她說。“我們不是在做一兩年的投資，我們是要爲未來的一百年做投資。這是未來的一代代人將要釀製的酒。”

& Chandon’s new sparkling wine facility — with its clean modern lines and state-of-the-art equipment — has become one of the area’s biggest standouts since it opened two years ago.

兩年前，酩悅公司嶄新的酒廠，包括潔淨的現代生產線和代表最先進水準的設備，頓時成了當地最爲醒目的一景。

Pointing out the giant tanks used to produce 50,000 cases last year, the estate director, Shen Yang, says Chandon is in the first phase of a long-term investment aimed at getting China’s white-collar professionals to drink more sparkling wine.

酩悅在寧夏酒莊的經理沈暘指着去年生產了5萬箱酒的巨大容器說，酩悅正在進行一項長期投資，目的是要讓中國懂葡萄酒的白領人士能夠喝到更多的氣泡酒，目前正進行到第一階段。

“Our mission in China is to create a new market for this wine,” Mr. Shen said.

“我們在中國的任務就是要爲這種葡萄酒開拓全新的市場。”沈先生說。

Today, Chinese demand for sparkling wines is tiny — roughly 2 percent of total wine consumption, he says, compared with 9 percent for mature markets. But & Chandon decided that with imports rising, it was time to start producing locally.

他說，目前中國對於氣泡酒的需求還很小，大約只佔到葡萄酒總消費的2%，而在成熟的市場，氣泡酒消費佔葡萄酒總消費的9%。但鑑於中國進口量的增加，酩悅認爲是時候開始在本地進行生產了。

“China’s market has enormous potential,” he added. “The interest in wine now is a reflection of its stage of economic development.”

“中國市場有巨大的潛力，”他補充說，“如今人們對葡萄酒的興趣反映了中國經濟發展的階段。”

Ningxia’s growing reputation has attracted investment, as domestic and international players alike look at China’s market. The region’s wineries produced 270 million bottles in 2014, nearly triple the level of three years earlier.

國內外投資者都很關注中國市場。因此寧夏的崛起吸引到了不少投資。2014年，這裏的酒莊共生產了2.7億瓶葡萄酒，是三年前的近三倍。

The resulting boom has reshaped Yinchuan. Signs of prosperity are everywhere, from the five-star Kempinski Hotel to the office towers and apartment complexes popping up all across the city. On the city’s outskirts, a constant flow of tractors and trucks race along winding two-lane roadways rutted with potholes. A new highway to speed visitors to the wineries is under construction.

這一繁榮改變了銀川的面貌。從凱賓斯基五星大酒店，到城市裏到處興建的辦公大廈和公寓大樓，到處都是繁榮的跡象。市郊蜿蜒坑窪的雙車道公路上總是不斷地有拖拉機和卡車來來往往。一條全新的高速公路正在興建，可以方便參觀者前往酒莊。

Changyu Pioneer Wine, China’s oldest domestic wine producer — and one of the three giants that dominate the market — has spent over $100 million creating a Disneyesque, nearly 140,000-square-foot “chateau,” complete with fountains, turrets and two suits of medieval armor guarding the gates. Run in partnership with the Austrian winemaker Lenz Moser, it is the latest of six castles that Changyu has built around China to draw middle-class Chinese who have begun to enjoy Western-style vacations. The general manager, Ruan Shi Li, says he expects 80,000 visitors this year, more than double its first year.

張裕公司是中國最老牌的國內葡萄酒生產商，也是目前佔領中國葡萄酒市場的三巨頭之一。公司斥資1億多美元，打造了一座佔地近14萬平方英尺的迪士尼式“酒莊”，內有噴泉、塔樓，還有兩套中世紀盔甲守衛大門。這座酒莊是與澳大利亞釀酒師蘭斯·摩塞爾(Lenz Moser)合作經營的，張裕公司在中國各地共建造了六座類似的城堡，希望能夠吸引開始享受起西式度假模式的中國中產階級人士前來，這座酒莊是其中最新的一座。酒莊總經理阮士禮（音譯）稱，他預計酒莊今年的遊客人數將超過酒莊經營首年遊客人數的兩倍，達到8萬人。

But some are starting to worry about whether the breakneck growth is sustainable, as the new wealth has prompted something of a speculative land rush. Chen Deqi was among Ningxia’s earliest investors, buying 25,000 acres in 2007. Now he’s dividing it into 100 parcels to create “mini chateaus” for the wealthy.

但是，新的財富刺激了一些類似於土地投機潮的投資熱，一些人開始擔憂這種高速增長是否是可持續的。陳德啓（音譯）是寧夏的早期投資者之一，他在2007年購買了25000英畝的土地。現在，他把這塊土地劃分成了100份，想要爲富人打造“迷你酒莊”。

Mr. Chen says he already has buyers willing to pay 1 million renminbi — roughly $160,000 — for the first two. He says the land is now worth 20 times what he paid for it.

陳先生說，他已經找到願意投資100萬人民幣（約16萬美元）購買頭兩塊地的買家了。他說，這片土地現在的價格已經是他買地時價格的20倍。

Others are concerned that quality could suffer. Xie Donjiang, a Ningxia native who developed a wine property south of Beijing and also owns the Ektimo winery in Sebastopol, Calif., returned to check out Ningxia last fall. He was disappointed.

還有一些人擔心葡萄酒的質量會出現下滑。謝東強（音譯）是一位寧夏本地人，他在北京南部投資建造過一座葡萄酒產業，目前是位於加利福尼亞州塞巴斯托波的艾科蒂莫(Ektimo)酒莊的所有者。去年秋天，他回到寧夏考察，不禁感到失望。

He argues that Ningxia officials have encouraged the willy-nilly planting of grapes without understanding which varietals are best suited to its terroir — the combination of soil, exposure and climate that makes each vineyard unique.

他說，寧夏官員一直在鼓勵人們毫無計劃地種植葡萄，卻並不瞭解什麼葡萄品種最適合在當地風土條件下栽種——風土條件是由土壤、日照、氣候等方面的綜合構成，是每一座葡萄園的獨特之處。

“Ningxia is pushing too hard,” Mr. Xie said. “This is basic analysis for wine, but the government is not doing it.”

“寧夏的步子太快了，”謝先生說道，“瞭解風土條件是對於葡萄酒的基礎分析，但是政府卻沒有做這件事。”

Zhou Jianyu is a businessman from Hunan. Like many younger Chinese, Mr. Zhou acquired a taste for wine while studying abroad. At first, he favored European wines — mostly French and Italian. But three years ago, he began drinking only Chinese wines. “They were excellent, so I began to drink more,” he said.

周建宇（音譯）是一位湖南的商人。和許多年輕中國人一樣，他在國外留學期間喜歡上了葡萄酒。他起初更喜歡歐洲葡萄酒——主要是法國和意大利葡萄酒。但是三年前，他開始只喝中國葡萄酒了。他說：“它們棒極了，所以我開始更多喝中國葡萄酒。”

On a tour of Legacy Peak, one of Ningxia’s best new wineries, Mr. Zhou and his friends had a lunch of fish, crabs, chicken and vegetables. While they ate, the winemaker, Zhou Shu Zhen, discussed the local climate and explained how a longer barrel aging added depth to her reds.

周先生曾到寧夏最好的新酒莊之一的留世酒莊旅遊。他和朋友在那裏吃午飯，有魚、螃蟹、雞和蔬菜。席間釀酒師周淑珍談起了當地的氣候條件，向他們解釋，較長的橡木桶陳化期增加了她所釀造的紅酒的厚度。

“For many people, California or French wines have their own flavor,” said Mr. Zhou, who is not related to the winemaker. “But I’ve discovered that Ningxia’s wines have their own flavor and character too.”

“對許多人來說，加州或法國的葡萄酒都有着獨特的風味，”周先生（和周淑珍並無親屬關係）說，“但是，我發現，寧夏的葡萄酒也有它自己獨特的風味和特點。”

As Ningxia races to expand, cultivating customers like Mr. Zhou will be critical. Much of the explosion in wine consumption was driven by government officials and executives at state-owned companies buying expensive vintages for banquets and gifts. In the last two years, the government has been on a tough anticorruption campaign, and one consequence was a 12 percent drop-off in red wine consumption last year. The stock market crash and slowing economy this year are not helping.

隨着寧夏的步履加快，培養像周先生這樣的顧客將是關鍵。此前，葡萄酒消費的爆炸式增長大都是由政府官員和國企高管拉動的，他們購買昂貴的葡萄酒用於宴會或作爲禮物。過去兩年間，政府發起了嚴厲的反腐運動，其後果之一，就是令去年紅酒的消費量下滑了12%。今年股票市場的暴跌以及放緩的經濟對紅酒銷量更是雪上加霜。

The shakeout is forcing winemakers to focus on “real buyers,” says Fongyee Walker, the managing director of Dragon Phoenix, a wine education consultancy based in Beijing. That is the middle- and upper-class Chinese who drink wine because they like it, not because of the status or favors it brings.

北京葡萄酒教育諮詢機構龍鳳美酒諮詢公司的總經理趙鳳儀說，如今，經濟衰退正逐漸迫使葡萄酒生產商們關注“真正的買家”——中國的中產階級和上流階層，他們喝葡萄酒，是因爲他們喜歡葡萄酒，而不是爲了彰顯身份或品味。

To build that customer base, Ningxia’s producers say they are concentrating on getting their wines into shops and restaurants in Beijing and other major cities. Few Ningxia wines are available outside the region, and prices are high.

爲了打造這個消費者基礎，寧夏的生產者們說，他們正專注於讓自己的葡萄酒走進北京和其他大城市的商店與餐廳。目前，在寧夏以外的地區能夠買到的寧夏葡萄酒很少，價格也很高。

“Even if people love our wines, they cannot find us,” says Wang Fang of Kanaan Winery. Both Kanaan and Legacy Peak have recently signed deals with top wine distributors.

“就算人們喜歡我們的葡萄酒，他們也找不到我們。”迦南美地酒莊的王芳說道。近來，迦南美地酒莊和留世酒莊都與頂尖葡萄酒經銷商簽訂了協議。

Many are also envisioning a time when top Chinese wines will be a common sight on the shelves of American or European stores.

許多人都憧憬着有一天，頂尖的中國葡萄酒能成爲美國或歐洲商店貨架上常見的商品。

Mike Insley, a New Zealander who recently arrived to upgrade Pernod Ricard’s vineyards, says the area reminds him of Marlborough — the center of his country’s wine industry — in the late 1980s. Back then, New Zealand’s wines had no international recognition and its vintners were only beginning to understand the wines they produced.

新西蘭人邁克·英斯利(Mike Insley)最近來到了中國，幫助改良保樂力加公司(Pernod Ricard)在中國的葡萄園。他說這個地方讓他想起20世紀80年代末的新西蘭馬爾堡（Marlborough），那裏是新西蘭葡萄酒產業的中心。那時，新西蘭的葡萄酒還沒有受到國際認可，新西蘭的葡萄酒生產者也纔剛剛開始瞭解他們所生產的酒。

Today, wine is New Zealand’s No. 6 export, with sales of more than $940 million. “That’s what happens when a country gets this right,” Mr. Insley said.

如今，葡萄酒已經是新西蘭的第六大出口商品，銷售額超過9.4億美元。“當一個國家做得好的時候，這種事情就會發生。”英斯利說。

Chinese vintages are starting to pique overseas interest. Bruno Paumard, a French winemaker who exports to Britain, Australia and Hong Kong from a large estate in nearby Inner Mongolia, has begun to ship his wines as well. And Changyu Moser XV, which now sells about 170,000 bottles a year in Britain, Germany and the Netherlands, is gearing up for a big expansion. Mr. Moser says it aims to hit roughly five million bottles across the Continent within a few years; he will also soon begin talks with American distributors. Thanks to a strong 2015 vintage, he adds, “we have a chance to make China a real player in the international arena.”

現在，中國上好的葡萄酒逐漸開始引起了海外人士的興趣。布魯諾·鮑馬爾(Bruno Paumard)是一位法國釀酒師，他向英國、澳大利亞和香港出口來自中國內蒙古附近一處大型酒莊的葡萄酒。他也已經開始出口自己的葡萄酒。張裕摩塞爾十五世酒莊每年在英國、德國和荷蘭售出約17萬瓶葡萄酒，如今正在爲一場大型擴張做準備。摩塞爾先生說，公司計劃在幾年內，讓公司的葡萄酒在歐洲大陸的銷量達到約500萬瓶，而他本人很快也會開始與美國的經銷商談判。他還說，多虧了2015年優質葡萄酒的良好表現，“我們纔有機會能讓中國成爲國際領域內的真正玩家。”

Silver Heights has also had interest from Europe. But Ms. Gao worries that Chinese wines are still too expensive to compete in international markets. For now, expanding her vineyards and improving her winemaking are more important than exporting.

銀色高地酒莊也引起了一些歐洲人士的興趣。但是高女士擔心，中國葡萄酒目前的價格太過昂貴，無法在國際市場上與其他葡萄酒競爭。就目前而言，拓展自己的葡萄園、釀酒技術，要比出口葡萄酒更加重要。

“We do not have time for that now,” she said with a laugh. “Maybe next year.”

“我們現在沒有時間考慮這個問題，”她笑着說，“也許明年吧。”