75年後,斯大林格勒戰役的記憶並不如煙

VOLGOGRAD, Russia — Like every Russian schoolchild, I grew up learning about Hitler’s murderous advance into Russia during World War II, and how it was halted at the Battle of Stalingrad — a critical turning point in the war.

俄羅斯伏爾加格勒——與每一名俄羅斯學童一樣，我從小就被教導，在第二次世界大戰期間，希特勒殘暴地入侵了蘇俄，斯大林格勒保衛戰阻止了德國人——那場戰役是“二戰”的關鍵轉折點。

The fight raged for 200 days, and the city was reduced to ruins. Civilians who couldn’t evacuate starved, some eating rats and clay. Resistance to the German onslaught was fierce as the defending army had no choice but to fend off the attack or die standing, following Stalin’s order: “Not one step back.”

戰役激烈地進行了200天，城市化爲廢墟。沒能逃走的平民飢寒交迫，有的人靠吃老鼠和泥土充飢。防衛軍激烈地抵抗德軍的攻勢，爲了服從斯大林“不準退後一步”的命令，他們別無選擇，必須以生命爲代價奮起抵抗。

At the end, a population that had been half a million was just 35,000.

最後，這座城市的50萬人口只剩下3萬5千人。

Since the war, the city has been completely rebuilt, and in 1961 was renamed Volgograd, an effort to erase Stalin’s legacy. But memories of the fighting, 75 years ago this year, are strong. Volgograders walking the streets or going to work pass by many kinds of memorials to those who sacrificed their lives.

戰後，這座城市已經徹底重建，爲了抹去斯大林的遺產，在1961年它更名爲伏爾加格勒。但75年前那場戰鬥的記憶仍未消散，許多走在街頭或在上班途中的伏爾加格勒人都會經過各種各樣紀念先烈的紀念碑。

The main memorial is the Mamayev Kurgan complex, over which towers “The Motherland Calls,” a statue that symbolizes the common mother of all Russians leading them to engage in battle. Visible from almost every vantage point in the city, the statue is a powerful reminder of the price that Soviet people paid to defeat Nazism.

城裏最重要的紀念性建築是馬馬耶夫崗(Mamayev Kurgan complex)雕塑羣，其中最高的是一尊名爲《祖國母親在召喚》(The Motherland Calls)的雕像，它象徵俄羅斯人共同的母親帶領他們加入戰鬥。幾乎從城市的每一個角度都能看到這尊雕像，它有力地提醒人們，蘇聯人民爲戰勝納粹主義所付出的代價。

I have worked as a conflict photographer for more than 10 years. Once, when visiting Homs, Syria, in 2014, I found myself comparing the destruction I saw with that of Stalingrad. When I visit Volgograd now — modern, reconstructed — I wonder if Homs and other cities destroyed by war will ever look and feel like this.

我作爲一個戰地攝影師工作了超過10年。2014年，我在敘利亞的霍姆斯(Homs)，我把在那裏看到的毀壞情況與斯大林格勒相比。當我來到今天這個現代的、重建一新的伏爾加格勒時，我想知道霍姆斯和其他被戰爭摧毀的城市會不會有一天也變成這樣的模樣、給人這樣的感受。

When the Germans sent in tanks, Mikhail Panikakha was fighting in a trench. He had already thrown his grenades and had just two Molotov cocktails left. He was raising one bottle to throw when a bullet smashed it, setting him on fire. He took the remaining bottle, jumped out of the trench and hit the nearest German tank, setting it on fire. The other tanks withdrew.

德國人的坦克大舉壓境時，米哈伊爾·帕尼卡卡(Mikhail Panikakha)正在戰壕中戰鬥。他已經扔光了手榴彈，只剩下兩枚燃燒彈。當他舉起其中一枚，準備向外扔去時，一顆子彈擊碎燃燒彈，他自己着起了火。拿着剩下的一枚，他跳出戰壕，甩向離自己最近的德軍坦克，坦克燃燒了起來。其餘的坦克紛紛後退。

After the fighting, all that remained of the village of Rossoshka, 35 kilometers (about 22 miles) from Volgograd, were ruins of buildings, ashes, shell craters and thousands of corpses. Today, two cemeteries stand at the site; 60,000 German soldiers are buried in one, 20,000 Soviet fighters in the other.

戰鬥結束後，距離伏爾加格勒35公里的羅斯諾什卡村(Rossoshka)只剩下一片廢墟、灰燼、彈坑和數千人的屍體。今天，那裏有兩座墓地；一個埋葬着6萬名德國軍人，另一個埋葬着1.2萬名蘇聯戰士。

Each summer, groups of volunteers look for the remains of soldiers in fields and under city streets. In 2017, the bodies of 800 soldiers were discovered.

每年夏天，志願者小組都會在田野裏和城市街頭下方尋找士兵遺骸。2017年，他們找到了800名士兵的遺體。

One day this summer, searchers unearthed the body of a Soviet fighter at the bottom of a pit a meter deep, his arms folded and legs bent.

今夏的一天，搜尋者從一個一米深的坑底挖出了一名蘇聯戰士的遺骸，他雙臂交叉，雙腿彎曲。

During the war, the industrial part of the city was a station for tractors and tanks. Now, the yearly rock festival Volgorock is held there. This year, groups of young people danced between old metal constructions, above which hangs a billboard emblazoned with the word “Stalingrad.”

戰爭時期，城市的工業區是拖拉機和坦克的駐地。現在，一年一度搖滾音樂節伏爾加羅克(Volgorock)在那裏舉行。今年，一羣羣的年輕人在舊金屬建築之間跳着舞，上面懸掛的一塊廣告牌上印着“斯大林格勒”。

On the waterfront each summer, an orchestra plays popular songs from Soviet times.

每年夏天，一支管弦樂團都會在江畔演奏蘇聯時代的流行歌曲。

“I was about 5 years old when the Germans began to bomb Stalingrad,” recalled Anatoly Savin, who is 80-something and was dancing with his wife, Irina. “I was playing in the street when the rumble of planes and explosions began.”

80多歲的阿納託利·薩溫(Anatoly Savin)和妻子伊琳娜(Irina)跳着舞，“德國人開始轟炸斯大林格勒的時候，我大概5歲，”他回憶道。“我正在街上玩，聽到轟炸機的轟鳴，然後爆炸開始了。”

Vladimir Turov, 97, is a war veteran. He said that every day, his battalion had forced back tank offensives, the bombs from the German air raids falling from the sky. On Sept. 12, 1942, his battalion was almost completely surrounded by Germans. But he refused to leave his wounded friend, fighting off the advancing forces with his machine gun. There was a huge explosion. His head spun and his eyes saw stars. He woke up in a hospital.

97歲的弗拉基米爾·圖羅夫(Vladimir Turov)是一名退伍軍人。他說，他當年所在的營每天都會迫退坦克的進攻和從天而降的德軍空襲炸彈。1942年9月12日，他的營幾乎完全被德國人包圍。但他沒有離開受傷的朋友，用機槍擊退了前進的德軍部隊。一聲巨響。他頭暈目眩，眼冒金星。 醒來時，他在一間醫院裏。

The All Saints Church was built on the Mamayev Kurgan memorial complex in 1993, after the fall of the Soviet Union, so that believers could honor the memory of the fallen.

蘇聯解體後，萬聖會教堂(The All Saints Church)於1993年在馬馬耶夫崗建成，信徒們能夠在這裏紀念逝去的人。

The battle created so many scars in this city that may never be totally healed. The Square of Heroes, also part of the memorial complex, contains a monument to a nurse carrying a wounded soldier from the battlefield.

那場戰役給這座城市留下了如此多的傷痕，許多可能永遠都無法癒合。英雄廣場(The Square of Heroes)也是紀念建築羣的一部分，這裏的一尊紀念碑刻着一個護士攙扶一名在前線受傷的士兵。

The Volga River was Hitler’s main target. Soviet soldiers fought to the death to keep possession of this strategic artery and important symbol. Now the calm, gentle surface of the river hides traces of the bloody fight. At the bottom of the river bed, burned-out ships, tanks, aircraft and the remains of thousands of soldiers still rest.

伏爾加河是希特勒的主要目標。爲了保住這個戰略動脈以及重要的象徵，蘇聯戰士與敵軍決一死戰。如今，這條河平靜柔和的河面隱藏了血戰的痕跡。在河底，燒燬的船隻、坦克、飛機和數千名死去的士兵仍安息在那裏。