醜陋的腳穿好看的鞋也差強人意

Women’s shoes are often regarded as smAll torture chambers for our feet, designed to give us an instant leg-up in the glamor charts while reducing us to an eye-watering hobble come the end of the day。

女士高跟鞋通常被看作是腳的刑室，高跟鞋能夠立即提升魅力指數，但一天結束時，你會累到淚流滿面、蹣跚而行。

But there is so much more to the female footwear story than this one cliché。

但是有關女性高跟鞋，除了這種說法之外，還有很多說法。

Manolo Blahnik

莫羅·伯拉尼克

On improving upon nature: The feet have always been the inspiration. If you have horrible feet, I always see the challenge to make it better. . Even the ugliest foot is going to be okay with a shoe that I do. This is the redeeming quality of a shoe well-made。

改進天性：腳一直都是靈感所在。如果腳部不舒服，我通常會看到需要改進改進的挑戰。最醜陋的腳穿上我設計的鞋子也能差強人意。這也是好鞋子的補償特質。

On the wealth of history: I’ve always love extremities in statues, Greek and Roman, in museums all around the world. Some of the shoes [I design] go back to the Hellenistic period, and things like that, but they’re completely different. Nothing like that was in Hellenistic times. My mind works that way: I just put details that remind of me of that kind of period。

歷史財富：我一直非常喜歡世界各地博物館中希臘和羅馬雕塑的肢體部分。我設計的一些鞋子可以追溯至希臘時期，但又完全不同。希臘化時期根本沒有這樣的鞋子。只是我的思維是那樣的，在設計中融入一些可以讓我想起那段時間的元素。

On perfection: I like to do with absolute perfection the best I can. This is really my challenge nowadays. As you get to a certain age, you’ve got to do the best you can because it’s the only way you can really get satisfaction。

完美：我喜歡盡善盡美，這正是我今天面臨的挑戰。到了一定年齡，你一定要做到最好，因爲這是獲得滿足感的唯一方式。

Charlotte Dellal

夏洛特·德拉爾

On the high heel as object of art: I love collecting beautiful things. I love objects and, to me, the shoe looks good on the foot, off the foot, or on your mantelpiece。

將高跟鞋看做藝術品：我喜歡收集漂亮的東西，我喜歡物品，對我來說鞋子穿或不穿，或者放在壁爐邊上時，都是漂亮的藝術品。

Just from a design aesthetic, they have a wonderful shape. With the high heel, there’s the negative space between the heel and the ball of the foot, as well as the shoe itself. It becomes sculptural。

從設計美學角度，高跟鞋擁有完美的外形。因鞋子有跟，高跟與前腳掌和鞋子之間是負空間設計。這樣高跟鞋與雕塑就有很多相同之處。

On the transformative power of accessories: It’s a cliché in saying, but I do think accessories -- shoes particularly -- change an outfit. You can literally dress up when you put on a pair of high heel shoes. It changes the whole thing: the posture, the attitude, the feeling. Everything. It elevates you in every sense of the word; it makes you feel somewhat special。

配飾的轉換性力量：這麼說很老套，但是我確實認爲配飾，尤其是鞋子，能夠改變服裝效果。如果穿了高跟鞋，你自可以盡情着上盛裝。高跟鞋能帶來很大的改變：姿勢，態度，感覺。它能改變一切。它在方方面面都將你提高至新的水平，賦予你與衆不同的感覺。

Pierre Hardy

皮埃爾·哈迪

On the future present: Fashion is short-view sci-fi. It’s sci-fi for tomorrow, not into a century or two centuries。

時尚是短期的“科幻小說”，只是明天的“科幻小說”，而非一兩百年之後的“科幻小說”。

There is something about the projection that you have to reach to create new shapes and to invent a new type of object, but at the same time fashion talks about femininity and about elegance and about chic. All these notions are from the past and make reference to ideal shapes that we already know。

當然，設計時需要創造新的形狀或者設計新型物品，但與此同時，時尚反應的還有女性氣質、高雅與時髦。所有意向都源於過去，並參考我們一直的理想形狀。

That’s something I love about fashion: to combine the desire for the future with with the knowledge of what was before; to try to combine those two opposite elements。

這也是時尚吸引我的地方：將我們對未來的期待和之前的知識融爲一體，試着融合兩種對立的元素。

There was a period when people were much more prospective, and believed much more in the future and in progress -- for example, in the 50’s and the 60’s, and even the 70’s sometimes. But nowadays we embrace a lot of different periods, a lot of different styles altogether. I think regarding artists and the history of art, our period is very baroque moment, a much combined moment。

有段時間，人們更具前瞻性，更加相信未來和進步。比如，在五六十年代甚至在七十年代的一些時候。但現在，我們接納不同階段，不同風格。我認爲對於藝術家以及藝術史來說，我們這個時代是巴洛克形式的，是個大融合的時代。

In our society, you know, civilization, walking barefoot is forbidden. Totally. Even if you aren’t aware of it, this taboo is included in your mind. It’s an obligation, a constraint. I think shoes and this love of shoes is a way to twist this constraint into a pleasure. It’s the definition of feminism or desire. Because you don’t have this reason to go barefoot, let’s make the shoe as glorious as possible。

在當今社會文化下，不允許赤腳步行。即使你對此並不瞭解，這種禁忌也是隱藏在你的意識之中的。這是一種義務一種約束。我認爲鞋子以及都鞋子的熱愛是將這種約束轉化成樂趣的一種方式。它是對女性主義或慾望的詮釋。鑑於你不能赤腳行走，那麼我們儘可能設計好的鞋子吧。