職場人士如何選擇一款合適的香水？
香水，無疑是個人風格中看不見的一個部分。但是卻可以大大影響別人對你的印象。
香水不僅可以增加你的個人魅力，提高信任度，降低心理壓力，增強信心和警覺性，還能提高你獲得女孩子電話號碼的機率。
儘管有這些種種優點，還是有80%的男士不會經常使用香水。也許是缺乏對香水的瞭解，對各種術語的困惑，也害怕使用錯誤，因爲難聞的味道被人笑話，所以讓男士們在香水這件事上望而卻步。
那麼今天就和小編一起來看看香水的門道，瞭解瞭解什麼是香水，香水又有哪些種類，更重要的是該如何選擇和正確使用香水呢？
What Are Fragrances?
什麼是香水？
Fragrances are complex mixtures of what people in the industry refer to as raw materials. These raw materials can be extracts from natural sources or synthetic raw materials.
香水是一種業內人士所稱的各種原料的複雜混合物。這些原料可以是天然或合成材料的提取物。
Oils are dissolved in a solvent (usually alcohol), to preserve a pleasant concoction of scents. The higher the concentration of oils – the greater the strength of the fragrance. The strength determines how long an application of the fragrance lasts on your skin.
精油溶於溶劑中（通常爲酒精），以保持怡人的香味。精油的濃度越高，香水的味兒就越濃。香水的濃度決定了它在我們身上持續的時間長短。
What Is The Difference Between Fragrance, Perfume, Toilette And Cologne?
香水，香精，淡香水和古龍水之間有什麼區別？
Fragrance是香水的通用術語，男女皆宜。它可以有多種形式，且被賦予不同的名稱，但通常屬於下面這幾類：Eau Fraiche：The Most diluted version of fragrance, usually with 1% – 3% perfume oil in alcohol and water. Usually lasts for less than an hour.
清新淡香水：稀釋度最高的香水，通常在酒精和水中含有1％-3％的精油。香味通常持續不到一個小時。
Cologne (Eau de Cologne)： Oldest term for perfume, used in North America for masculine scents. Light, fresh and fruity, typically composed of 2% – 4% perfume oils in alcohol and water. Tend to be used in fragrances for younger people. Usually lasts for about 2 hours.
古龍水：最古老的香水術語，用於北美的男性香水。質地輕盈，氣味清新，酒精和水中通常含有2％-4％的精油。多爲年輕人使用，持續時間約2小時。
Toilette (Eau de Toilette)：A light spray composition with 5% – 15% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol. Usually lasts for about 3 hours.
淡香水： 酒精中含有5％-15％純香精的輕質噴霧劑。持續時間約3個小時。
Perfume (Eau de Parfum)：Historically genderless, used to describe both men’s and women’s fragrances. The best term used to describe a fragrance. Contains 15% – 20% pure perfume essence and lasts for about 5 to 8 hours.
香水：歷史上無性別之分，可用於描述男士和女士香水。也是用於描述香味的最佳術語。酒精中含有15％-20％純香精精華，持續時間約5〜8小時。
Perfume：A corruption of the Latin phrase per fumum (through smoke). The most concentrated and expensive of all fragrance options. Slightly oilier, perfume, or parfum, is composed of 20% – 30% pure perfume essence. A single application of perfume can last up to 24 hours.
香料：從拉丁語per fumum衍變而來。是所有香水中最濃縮和最昂貴的。少量精油，香精或香水中含有20％-30％的純香精精華，使用一次即可持續24小時。
一般香型：Floral：花香，常見的有玫瑰（rose），薰衣草（lavender）茉莉香（jasmine）丁香花（lilac） Woody: 木香，常見的有檀香（sandalwood）雪松（cedar）苔蘚（moss）廣藿香（patchouli） Citrus：柑橘香，常見的有橘香（orange）柚香（grapefruit）檸檬香（lemon） Fruity：果香，常見的有無花果（fig）黑醋栗（blackcurrant）桃子（peach）覆盆子（raspberry） Fresh： 清香，常見的有亞麻味（linen） Green : 青草香，比如綠葉，綠草，竹香味 Spicy：辣香，比如肉桂香（cinnamon）生薑（ginger）肉豆（nutmeg）番紅花（saffron） Sweet: 甜香，包括香草味（vanilla）杏仁味（almond）The Life Cycle Of Fragrances
香水的生命週期
香水的時效可以分爲三段——就像是一個生命週期——不妨將它想象成一個逐漸消散的金字塔。每一個部分都有各自的香味或“調子”，它們互相粘連，最後就成了你所聞到的那樣。
一般香水的香味由三個調子組成：即前調、中調和基調（也稱尾調）。
Top note：The top or basic note is the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose first. The top note lasts around 15 minutes – 2 hours.
前調：前調是一瓶香水最先觸及鼻子的輕微的香味，能持續約15分鐘至2小時。
Typical top and middle notes are various floral scents, fruity scents, marine/aquatic notes, and spices such as cinnamon. Examples of these notes include citruses, powdery scents and light florals.
典型的前調是各種花香，果香，海洋調或水調以及肉桂等香料。這些調子包括柑橘，粉末香料和花香成分。
Medium note ：Also referred to as the middle or heart notes – showcase the main elements of the fragrance. These notes develop after the top note clears – around 30 minutes and can last 3-5 hours after being sprayed.
中調：也被稱爲“香核”——展示了一款香水的精華所在。中調在前調之後出現，大約在30分鐘左右，並且可以持續3-5個小時。
Heart notes most often include heavier floral scents. The middle and base notes are the extra layers of scents which give the fragrance its distinctive smell.
中調通常含有更濃的花香。中調和基調是賦予香水獨特氣味的兩個氣味層。
Base note：The last to develop and helps fix the fragrance to the skin. This is where you will smell the bolder notes of the scent, which become more noticeable when the fragrance has been on the skin for a while. Base notes lay the foundation for the fragrance and will determine how long the fragrance lasts on your skin. Base notes tend to last from 5 to 10 hours. Typical base notes are sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.
基調：最後散發並讓香味“嵌入”皮膚的調子。這個時候氣味最是濃郁，尤其當香水已經在皮膚上存留一段時間後，這些香味會變得更加明顯。基調爲香水奠定了基礎，並將決定香水能在皮膚上持續多長時間。基調往往持續5至10個小時。典型的基調由檀木，香根草，香草，焦油，皮革，菸草和麝香組成。
As the notes dry up, the scent will change, allowing for the scents to evolve and be more interesting. Typically, the mark of a low-quality fragrance is if it remains monotone throughout its life.
隨着每個調子轉換，香水的氣味也發生變化，香味層層遞進，趣味橫生。通常來說，如果一款香水在整個生命週期中始終保持單調的香味，可見其質量不佳。
How To Select And Buy The Right Perfume？
如何選擇和購買正確的香水？
Scientific studies suggest that an individual can select the perfume that works best with his natural body odor. Don’t let others choose for you, instead let them reinforce your judgment.
科學研究表明，每個人都可以選擇到最適合自己體味的香水。不要讓別人爲你做出選擇，而是通過他們的反應來證明你的選擇是正確的。
Don’t try a blind buy – purchasing a perfume on someone else’s recommendation.
不要盲目購買——在別人的推薦下買了一款（不適合自己的）香水。
You need to test if the perfume complements your natural body odor. Department stores are a convenient place to trial different samples, just ensure you don’t buy till ready. You should try not more than four fragrances at a time (two is ideal).
你需要測試這款香水是否和你的體味相得益彰。百貨公司是一個非常方便的地方，你可以在那試用不同的樣品。在你準備好之前，確保不要胡亂購買。一次最好不要嘗試超過四種香水（兩種是最理想的）。
How to test fragrances？
如何測試香水？
Spray one on each wrist and each inner elbow.
在每隻手腕和每個內肘上噴一點兒。
Between smelling each cologne, refresh your palate with something strong, like coffee beans (usually provided).
聞不同的古龍水時，用一些氣味重的東西，比如咖啡豆（一般香水櫃臺都會提供）來讓你的鼻子重新進入新的狀態。
Smell all the notes. Avoid using the paper strips provided for testing the fragrance. The initial top note smell isn’t necessarily the one that lingers for the rest of the day.
要聞完所有的調子。不要使用提供的試香紙來測試。前調不一定是一整天持續的那個氣味。
After spraying the fragrance on your wrists, walk around the department store, and smell the colognes at various intervals up to an hour.
在手腕上噴灑香水後，可以在百貨商店周圍走走，差不多每隔一小時聞聞氣味。
Rules For Perfume Application
香水使用規則
Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a shower. Hold the spray nozzle 3-6 inches from your skin and focus on these rules for applying perfume:
在乾燥的皮膚上噴灑香水，最好是在淋浴後。將噴嘴保持在距離皮膚3-6英寸處，並在使用香水時，注意下面的這些規則：
Pulse points – Your body heat will push the scent through out the day, creating a nice scent trail commonly called sillage. Start with the warm parts of your body – chest, neck, lower jaw, wrist, forearm, inner elbow, shoulder.
可以噴在脈搏點處——身體散發的熱量會讓氣味持續一整天，創造出一種通常被稱爲sillage的芳香。你可以從身體溫暖的部分開始——胸部，頸部，下頜，手腕，前臂，內肘，還有肩部。
Re-spray only when required – You can add more sprays to your wrists or take sprays away depending on how long the scent lasts.
只有在需要時才進行噴塗——根據香味的持續能力，來增加或減少噴在手腕上的次數。
Don’t kill the note – Rubbing the perfume into the skin seems a sensible thing to do. In reality – it breaks the molecular bond, making the scent weaker.
不要破壞調子—— 將香水擦在皮膚上似乎是一件明智的事情，但事實上，這樣會破壞分子鍵，也讓香味變得更弱了。
Don’t spray and walk – Spraying a fragrance in the air and walking through the mist is worthless. Most of it the fragrances drops straight to the floor.
不要噴在空氣裏然後再弄到身上——在空氣中噴灑香水，然後再走上前讓香水落在身上，這個方法並沒有什麼用。其實大部分香水都直接落到地板上了。
Don’t spray fragrance on your clothes – The fragrance isn’t allowed to mix with your oils, and hence it can’t naturally go through the stages of notes like it should. The oils in a fragrance will stain many fabrics.
不要在你的衣服上噴灑香水——不要將香水與油性的東西混合，因爲這樣它就不能自然地經過三個階段的調子。而且香水中油性的物質也會污染許多織物。
Don’t splash too much – If you are applying cologne from a regular bottle, take one finger and press it against the opening of your bottle, and then tip it over gently.
不要灑太多——如果你常從瓶子裏倒古龍水，請用一根手指壓在瓶子的開口處，然後輕輕地將其倒出一點兒。
Less Is More – “Fragrance should be discovered, not announced”. People should be close to smell the perfume but not overpowered by it.
少即是多——“香水應該是被他人發現的，而不是大肆地向別人宣揚”。人們能在靠近時聞到你身上的香味，而不是遠遠地就被它薰到了。
Women like to be with guys who smell good
女生喜歡和那些聞起來很好的傢伙呆在一塊兒
Wearing a fragrance is a distinctive way of expressing yourself. Depending on the scent you choose, wearing a fragrance can make you more attractive and more approachable.
使用香水能讓你用獨特的方式來展現自我。根據你挑選的氣味，用一點兒香水會讓你顯得更有吸引力，也更平易近人。
Once you find some fragrances that you feel comfortable wearing and build an appreciation for perfumes that complement your natural odor, you’ll move on to the next level of purchasing fragrances – choosing them simply because you like how they smell.
如果你發現某些香水讓你感覺特別舒服，而且也能鑑賞出哪種香水適合你的體味，那麼你就已經到達購買香水的下一級別了——選擇它們只是純粹因爲你喜歡它們本身的氣味。
常見品牌：Cucci 古馳——身份與財富的象徵
Versace 範思哲——讓人着迷的性感
Hermes愛馬仕——對精緻的追求無止境
Dior 迪奧——把優雅發揮到極致
Chanel 香奈兒——一直被模仿，從未被超越
Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫·聖羅蘭——個性化的典範
Givenchy 紀梵希——獨一無人的享受
Anna Sui 安娜蘇——童話般的神祕與優美
Burberry 巴寶莉——英國式經典
所以，還在等什麼，快去選擇你的專屬香水吧！這個夏天，也許會因爲這一抹清香而變得與衆不同呢！ （本文首發於滬江商務英語公衆號，掃碼關注，即可獲取更多商務英語資訊。轉載請“滬江商務英語”後臺聯繫！）
