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不要指責D&G廣告模特了

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For model Zuo Ye, who recently featured in Dolce and Gabbana's deplored advert, the experience of being duped into the starring tokestic role was enough to “almost ruin [her] modelling career”.

對於出演杜嘉班納被抨擊廣告的模特左也來說,這個糟糕的主演經驗幾乎“毀了她的模特生涯“。

You've probably seen it by now: the 40-second long depiction of Chinese culture, complete with a painfully patronising voiceover guiding the model through the eating of oversized Italian meals with cheap chopsticks.

你現在可能已經看過了:在40秒長的廣告對中國文化的描寫中,用一個惺惺作態旁白展示一個模特在用一雙廉價的筷子吃一個超大號的意大利食物。

TFBoys band member Wang Junkai stepped down from his role as Chinese brand ambassador for D&G and a number of other famous figures denounced the long-criticised creative decisions of the designer brand.

TFBoy樂隊成員王俊凱主動放棄了杜嘉班納中國品牌大使,其他名流對於杜嘉班納拍攝這樣視頻的行爲也進行了譴責。

And Zuo herself also became a target for that anger.

作爲模特兒的左也成爲網友發泄憤怒的衆矢之的。

Describing the shoot as “different from what [she] initially expected”, Zuo claimed in an apology on Chinese social media platform Weibo that she felt “uncomfortable” once it became clear what her role in the advert would be.

左也在中國社交媒體平臺微博上發表道歉,稱拍攝場景“和一開始她期望的不一樣”,當她知道她在廣告中扮演的是什麼角色的時候廣告,她覺得很“彆扭”。

She said: “During the filming process, I was required by the director to laugh from ear to ear [and] laugh behind [my] hands.

她說:“在拍攝的過程中,我被導演要求手放在前面大笑。”

“As the food given was all super-sized, I did feel embarrassed when holding chopsticks. At the same time, I was required to laugh in an exaggerated way, but I hate to laugh in real life.”

“所有上來的食物都是超大尺寸的,用筷子夾住他們的時候我感覺很尷尬,同時我還被要求要非常誇張地笑,其實我在現實生活中是不喜歡笑的。”

Following that Zuo claimed to have “received lots of attacks and threats online” as well as being harassed “through phone calls, email and online”, noting that part of the reason she initially signed on for the role was due to the opportunities working “with any top brand” overseas as a Chinese model would bring her.

之後左也稱自己“受到了很多網上的攻擊和恐嚇”,還有來自“電話,郵件,和網絡”的各種騷擾。同時,她一開始接受這個角色是因爲中國模特和這個國外“頂尖品牌”合作會帶給她很多機會。

But whether or not she knew is beside the point; the advert should not have been made. The more important question is this: why it is that people of colour are still tasked with making choices like these, just to sustain their livelihoods?

不過不管她是否知道具體的內容這些都不重要了,這樣的廣告就不應該被拍攝出來。還有重要的問題是:“爲什麼在這種情況下有色人種還是會爲了生計而選擇這樣的工作?”

Ascribing Zuo a level of influence to the point of being able to convince a global fashion powerhouse to change its entire orientalist treatment is naive.

不過認爲依靠左的一己之力可以說服這個全球時尚品牌大亨改變對於東方的態度,想法是很天真的。

不要指責D&G廣告模特了

Control for productions like these lies firmly in the hands of creative teams – most likely dominated by white employees – who have been free to dream up these nods to racism unchallenged for years, either because there's no one there to object or because the few people who would do not feel supported enough to challenge the status quo.

這些(視頻)製作都牢牢地控制掌握在創意團隊的手中, 極有可能是由白人僱員決定。這些人多年來不受限制、不受挑戰地、憑空想象種族歧視且奉行於此,要不就是因爲那裏沒有人反對,要不就是沒有人感覺到有足夠的支持來改變這種狀態。

Thankfully, consumers are slowly beginning to grasp the consequences of tokenism. It's not just harmless fun, nor is it just a matter of hurting people's feelings. As with Zuo, the fallout can ruin a career.

值得慶幸的是,消費者們開始逐步意識到這種象徵主義的要義。這不是什麼無傷大雅的玩笑,也不是僅僅是傷害人們的感受。從左的角度來說,這一次的崩塌也毀了她的事業。