美麗不凍人,可能嗎?
When the wind blows in from Siberia it’s easy to throw style out the window and bundle yourself up like some latter-day babushka. But is it possible to look cool and keep warm when the temperature drops below freezing? Consider the following advice from our friends in the (very far) north.
當西伯利亞的寒風颳來之時，人們很容易就顧不上再研究穿着打扮了，一門心思將自己裹得像是步履蹣跚的老太太。那麼，在氣溫低過零度的寒冷天氣裏，真的有辦法既保持溫度又保持風度嗎？聽聽這些北方來的朋友們是怎麼說的吧(真的是很北的地方哦)。“Only in Russia can you see women casually strolling on the ice-covered streets wearing a pair of stiletto heels,” says Moscow-based designer Ulyana Sergeenko. “Even on the coldest days women here strive to look beautiful and glamorous. I love that Russian women always want to look their best. I believe a woman should look beautiful and graceful, no matter what.”
“只有在俄羅斯你才能看到有女性穿着小細高跟鞋在冰封的街道上悠閒散步。”莫斯科設計師Ulyana Sergeenko這麼說道：“哪怕是在最爲寒冷的那些天，這裏的女性都會努力做到漂亮和優雅。我喜歡俄羅斯女性這種時時刻刻都希望讓自己看上去處於最佳狀態的做法。我堅信一個女人應該讓自己漂亮優雅，不管發生了什麼。”Sergeenko’s hard-line approach to sub-zero style is something she applies to her own winter wardrobe. “It’s not only about fur. There’s a whole range of amazing and beautiful things you can only wear in winter – muffs, angora shawls, funny woollen mittens and gaiters, beautifully embroidered coats, heavy capes, bright puffer jackets and valenkí – really warm, comfortable boots made from dense felted wool. It’s a very traditional Russian thing. When it’s freezing cold for months and keeping yourself warm is your highest priority, you really have to be creative to avoid being stuck with the same combination of clothes every day.”
Sergeenko給出的“零下着裝建議”，其中有很多單品也是她爲自己準備的。“並不是僅僅只有皮草。其實有許多漂亮的東西是隻能在冬天才能穿戴的——袖套、安哥拉羊毛披肩、羊毛手套和靴套、有着精美刺繡的外套、厚重的斗篷、明豔的羽絨服和雪地靴——這種用皮毛一體的羊皮做成的靴子真的非常保暖，舒適度也不錯。這是一種非常傳統的俄羅斯服飾。當持續幾個月的零下低溫到來時，保暖纔是最重要的事情，但又要多花點心思，免得每天都以差不多的形象示人。”
You can match Sergeenko’s eclectic cold weather style with Brora’s embroidered shawls (￡109) and folk-patterned cashmere gloves (￡45); bright puffer jackets (￡59.90) from Uniqlo and wool cape-coats (￡299) by Somerset by Alice Temperley at John Lewis.
你可以在Sergeenko給出的冬季着裝基礎上，再搭配以Brora的刺繡披肩(售價109英鎊)和有着民族風圖案的開司米羊毛手套(售價45英鎊)、優衣庫的兩色羽絨服(售價59.90英鎊)以及Somerset by Alice Temperley的羊毛斗篷外套(售價299英鎊)。Olga Dunina, fashion director at Vogue Russia, has a more forgiving approach. “This winter I’m wearing a Chanel parka and Marc Jacobs lace-up combat boots with chunky knit socks. Or alternatively an Acne oversized sheepskin biker jacket with chunky knits from Stella McCartney and wool ribbed tights. It’s all about layering, most often with a chunky scarf I can use like a hood, and cashmere underwear from my favourite Russian cashmere designer, Tegin.”
《Vogue》雜誌俄羅斯版的時裝總監奧爾加·杜妮娜(Olga Dunina)給出的方案則有更廣闊的選擇空間。“這個冬天，我穿着的是香奈兒的皮衣和馬克·雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)的繫帶軍靴以及Stella McCartney的粗針短襪。或者還會選擇一件Acne的寬鬆型羊皮機車夾克以及Stella McCartney的粗針毛衣和羊毛緊身衣。多層次混搭，通常我還會再來上一條編織圍巾，可以用作頭巾；以及由我最喜歡的俄羅斯開司米羊毛設計師Tegin出品的羊毛內衣。”As for men, Igor Garanin, fashion director of GQ Russia, says: “It’s all about layers and enormous scarves. Looking smart is the best way to keep warm with cashmere shirts and ties. This winter I really love the thick cashmere cardigans from Ballantyne, double-breasted coats by Dries Van Noten and scarves from Faliero Sarti.”
至於男性，《GQ》雜誌俄羅斯版的時裝總監伊戈爾·加拉寧(Igor Garanin)說：“配搭和寬大的圍巾最重要。穿戴羊絨襯衫和領帶是讓你看起來輕巧靈活並還能保暖的最好辦法。這個冬天，我最愛的是來自Ballantyne 的超厚羊毛開衫、Dries Van Noten的雙排扣外套，以及Faliero Sarti 的圍巾。”Danish-born designer Peter Jensen, who swapped the freezing winters of his homeland for a different kind of cool in London’s East End, says: “I always start wearing two pairs of socks from the end of October – a normal pair and a pair of thick knitted ones. My mother still knits them for me. It is the only thing she can be bothered to knit now.”
如今躲開自己家鄉嚴寒的冬季，在倫敦東區工作和生活的丹麥設計師皮特·詹森(Peter Jensen)說：“我通常從10月底就開始穿兩雙襪子了——一雙是普通襪子，另一雙則是非常厚的針織襪。我的母親現在還在爲我織呢。這是目前爲止她唯一百織不厭的東西。”And when he goes home? “I really like Sunspel’s thermal underwear and their cashmere scarves and gloves. I also have a great Junya Watanabe for Gloverall duffel coat with a zip-in padded lining. I wear my own label hats in lambswool. But my favourite cold weather essential is a heart-shaped hand-warmer. You just click it and it heats up. It makes you feel like you can go Christmas shopping for hours.”
那他要是回家的話又穿什麼呢？“我喜歡Sunspel的熱能內衣以及他家的羊毛手套和圍巾。我還有一件非常棒的渡邊淳彌的牛角扣粗呢大衣，襯裏裝有可以拆卸的拉鍊。我還會戴上自己品牌的羔羊毛帽子。但要說我最愛的冬季必需品，那還得是那隻心形的暖手爐。你只需要摁它一下，它就開始發熱，暖和得讓你覺得足可以應付好幾個小時的聖誕血拼。”
