在朱諾走下郵輪 品嚐阿拉斯加美味

Nearly one million cruise passengers annually visit Juneau, Alaska’s rugged state capital, from May through September, often swarming the town of nearly 33,000 residents on day trips and shore excursions. Its main attractions include the nearby Mendenhall Glacier, where the visitors’ center offers boardwalk trails that overlook bear-viewing areas, and small boat trips to watch orca and humpback whales.

每年5月至9月，近百萬郵輪乘客拜訪阿拉斯加州崎嶇不平的首府朱諾。在日間遊覽或上岸短暫遊覽期間，他們往往會擠滿這個有近3.3萬居民的小城。該市的主要旅遊景點包括附近的門登霍爾冰川(Mendenhall Glacier)，那裏的遊客中心提供可以俯瞰熊出沒區域的木板路遊覽，以及可以觀看虎鯨和座頭鯨的小船遊覽。

If, post-tour, Most of those visitors ate their meals back on their ships, they could hardly be blamed for shunning popcorn and fudge. Until recently, Juneau didn’t have much to offer the discerning diner. But what a local chef, Tracy LaBarge, started nine years ago with a small shack behind the public library devoted to king crab has snowballed with new restaurant openings, a weekly food truck event and fresh enthusiasm for locally sourced fare.

遊覽結束後，大部分遊客回到船上吃飯，爲了逃避爆米花和乳脂軟糖，所以這不能怪他們。直到不久前，朱諾沒有太多美食可以提供給獨具慧眼的食客。九年前，當地大廚特蕾西·拉巴奇(Tracy LaBarge)在公共圖書館後面開了個小飯館，專賣帝王蟹。如今這裏已有多家新餐館開業，每週舉辦一次流動餐車集會，還出現了對當地食物迸發出的新鮮熱情。

“We were having dinner parties at our house because you couldn’t get a variety of food out,” said Kelly Moore, known as Midgi, who is a Juneau food blogger and columnist, observing the culinary boom of the last two years. “Now you can get it without having to do the dishes. Within a two-block area, wherever you look there’s something incredible to eat, from a food truck to fine dining.”

“過去，我們在家裏舉辦晚宴派對，因爲在外面找不到吃的，”朱諾的美食博主和專欄作家Midgi（原名凱莉·摩爾[Kelly Moore]）說。她注意到過去兩年當地飲食業的繁榮發展。“現在，你不必自己做就能獲得各種美食。在兩個街區的範圍內，不管往哪裏看，你都能找到非常好吃的食物，不管是流動餐車還是在高級餐廳裏。”

In 2006, Ms. LaBarge opened Tracy’s King Crab Shack (), a modest stand with an honest approach, including making the cooks, and especially the proprietor herself, visible at the stove. The meaty red king crab legs were fun to wrestle, but locals in particular queued up for her cream-based crab bisque, making Ms. LaBarge a culinary star. Last summer, she doubled the restaurant’s size and moved to South Franklin Street, a main-drag location opposite a cruise dock.

2006年，拉巴奇開設了特蕾西帝王蟹小飯館(Tracy’s King Crab Shack, )，這個樸素的飯館以誠待客，顧客們能看到竈臺邊的廚師們，特別是店主本人。這裏多肉的紅色帝王蟹腿剝起來很有趣，不過當地人更喜歡排隊購買奶油蟹肉濃湯，拉巴奇因此成了烹飪明星。去年夏天，她把餐館搬到了主幹道南富蘭克林街，對面有個郵輪碼頭，店面擴大了一倍。

In addition, she opened two more restaurants last year, the upscale Salt () and the Indian restaurant Saffron (). The former serves creative food with an Alaskan accent, like hamachi crudo with pickled onion or crab carbonara. The latter, specializing in Indian comfort food, is more unexpected in the cold climate. On a rainy August afternoon last year, I lingered over creamy lentils and tangy yogurt-based salads, next to an Indian family of eight who had left their cruise ship in search of more exotic fare and found it in the cooking of Sharmila Shaligram, a native of Pune, India, whom Ms. LaBarge persuaded to move to Juneau for the opening.

另外，去年她還開了兩家新餐館——高檔餐廳“鹽”(Salt, )和印度餐館“藏紅花”(Saffron, )。鹽餐廳供應阿拉斯加風味創意菜，例如生獅魚醃洋蔥或蟹肉奶酪烤意麪。藏紅花餐館專做印度式的溫馨食物，在阿拉斯加寒冷的氣候裏更是出人意料。去年8月一個下雨的下午，我在藏紅花餐館慢慢享用奶油扁豆和味道濃郁的酸奶沙拉，旁邊是一家八口印度人，他們離開郵輪，尋找更具異域風情的食物，結果卻在沙米拉·薩利格拉姆(Sharmila Shaligram)製作的食物中如願以償。薩利格拉姆是印度浦那人，這家餐館開業時，拉巴奇勸他搬來朱諾。

“I wanted to do what we didn’t have in town,” Ms. LaBarge said of her diverse collection of restaurants, which farther out of town includes the sports bar McGivney’s, () serving the crab bisque as well as chicken wings and poutine, the Canadian fast-food dish.

“我想做些當地沒有的東西，”拉巴奇提到自己開設的不同餐館時說。她甚至還開了一家體育酒吧——麥吉夫尼(McGivney’s, )，那裏除了供應雞翅和加拿大快餐肉汁乳酪薯條，還供應蟹肉濃湯。

Ms. LaBarge and company have been joined by other daring chefs who are delving deeply into the Alaskan larder. Leading the way is Beau Schooler, who was a 2015 semifinalist for Rising Star Chef of the Year awarded by the James Beard Foundation. At the Rookery Cafe (), a coffee shop by day centered by a long wooden communal table, his dinners, which change frequently, draw on local ingredients (I had seared halibut with locally grown zucchini, cherries, feta cheese and mint), and crowds hit capacity well before 6 p.m.

除了拉巴奇，該市還有其他一些大膽的大廚，他們深入研究阿拉斯加美食。其中的領導者是博·斯庫勒(Beau Schooler)。2015年，他曾入圍詹姆斯·比爾德基金會(James Beard Foundation)舉辦的年度新秀大廚(Rising Star Chef of the Year)半決賽。他是魯克裏咖啡館(Rookery Cafe, )的大廚。這家咖啡館白天營業，餐館正中是一張公用木長桌。這裏的翻桌率很高，顧客們被當地食材（我點的是煎大比目魚搭配當地出產的西葫蘆、櫻桃、菲達奶酪和薄荷）所吸引，還不到下午6點這裏就客滿了。

One block away, Mr. Schooler and the Rookery owner Travis Smith opened Panhandle Provisions () last summer, offering house-cured charcuterie such as Alaskan pork salami with red wine, and grab-and-go fare like bison sandwiches with buffalo milk blue cheese, as well as foods imported from Spain to Brooklyn, like the preserved veggies from Brooklyn Brine Company.

去年夏天，斯庫勒和魯克裏咖啡館的店主特拉維斯·史密斯(Travis Smith)在一個街區外合開了平鍋柄食品店(Panhandle Provisions, )，這裏供應自制熟食（例如阿拉斯加蒜味豬肉臘腸配紅酒）、外賣食物（例如野牛肉三明治配藍紋水牛奶酪），以及從西班牙、布魯克林等地進口的食物（例如布魯克林布林恩公司[Brooklyn Brine Company]的醃製素菜）。

This month, Ms. Moore, the food writer, introduced Juneau Food Tours (), a two-and-a-half--hour walking tour around the capital with sampling stops at Panhandle Provisions, Alaskan Gourmet Foods, which specializes in regional products like game sausage and smoked salmon, and Silver Bow Bakery, famous for bread made with a sourdough starter, said to improve with age, that is more than a century old. The tour concludes with an Alaskan Brewing Company tasting at the historic Alaskan Bar.

本月，美食作家摩爾推出了朱諾美食之旅(Juneau Food Tours, )。在兩個半小時的步行之旅中，你會在這個首府的幾家食品店停留品嚐——平鍋柄食品店、阿拉斯加美食店（Alaskan Gourmet Foods，這裏專供當地食品，例如野味香腸和薰三文魚）和銀色蝴蝶結麪包店（Silver Bow Bakery，這裏以用酵母麪糰做成的麪包聞名，據說這種麪糰時間越久味道越好，目前歷史已有一個多世紀之久）。美食之旅的終點是著名的阿拉斯加酒吧(Alaskan Bar)，你在那裏可以品嚐阿拉斯加啤酒公司(Alaskan Brewing Company)的啤酒。

Wedged between the narrow Gastineau Channel and Mount Roberts, downtown Juneau’s compact layout makes progressive feasts possible on foot, including hitting Food Truck Fridays weekly at the Juneau Arts and Culture Center (), featuring music and mobile food stands alongside the permanently stationed burger specialist Pucker Wilson’s (),

朱諾市中心夾在狹窄的加斯蒂諾海峽(Gastineau Channel)和羅伯茨山(Mount Roberts)之間，佈局緊湊，步行就能到達前衛的美食集會，包括每週在朱諾藝術文化中心(Juneau Arts and Culture Center, )舉辦的餐車星期五集會(Food Truck Fridays)，那裏有音樂、流動食品攤以及每次都會亮相的專家級普克·威爾森漢堡攤(Pucker Wilson’s, )。

According to local chefs, what Juneau (and Alaska in general) has over other food-focused destinations is the versatile bounty of the productive Pacific Ocean.

當地大廚們說，與其他美食目的地相比，朱諾（乃至整個阿拉斯加）的一個優勢是，這裏有豐富多樣的太平洋海產。

“We have so much seafood in Alaska to choose from, and it’s very accommodating to cook,” Ms. LaBarge said. “You can do halibut a thousand ways. It’s a chef-friendly food.”

“阿拉斯加有很多海鮮，非常適合烹飪，”拉巴奇說，“你有一千種做大比目魚的方法。它是大廚很喜歡的一種食物。”