發現巴厘島的另一面 Finding the Other, Cheaper Side of Bali

It was about five miles from the Kudesa Homestay guesthouse in Kemenuh village to the Gianyar Night Market, on the Indonesian island of Bali. So I asked my host, Mangku, whether I could make it on the bike he had available for rent. No problem, he said, he knew people who do it all the time.

在印度尼西亞的海島巴厘島上，從位於克美奴(Kemenuh)村莊的庫德薩民宿(Kudesa Homestay)到吉安雅夜市(Gianyar Night Market)的距離，僅有5英里。於是我問我的房東——大家都叫他“師傅”(Mangku)——我能不能騎輛他提供租借的車去那裏。他說沒問題，他認識很多人一直都是這麼去的。

It was a miscommunication. I was asking about the bicycle, but he meant the Motorbike, which made sense since motorcycles and scooters are the main form of transportation on Bali, the fourth, final, and by far most touristy stop on my Indonesia tour.

他誤解了我的意思。我問的是自行車，而他說的則是摩托車。這並不奇怪，重型機車和小綿羊本來就是巴厘島上最常用的交通工具。在我此次的印尼之旅中，巴厘島是第四站和最後一站，也是迄今爲止我去過的一處普通遊客最常去的地方。

Alas, I don’t know how to ride them. Still, he reluctantly let me take the tough-looking red hybrid bicycle, warning me to stay out of the heavy traffic. I took his instructions literally, sticking just off the road in what I would call the anti-bike lane.

唉，我根本不會騎摩托車啊。但他還是很不情願地讓我牽出了那輛造型粗獷的紅色混合自行車，告誡我與繁忙的車流保持距離。我嚴格地執行了他的指示，始終遠離幹道，只在在我看來根本就不不適合自行車行駛的小巷裏穿行。

That meant bouncing over pebbly dirt shoulders and narrow sidewalks often blocked by parked cars and market stalls, edging onto the road only when there was a lull in the nearly constant scooter buzz.

這意味着我要不斷地躍過卵石與泥土砌成的路肩，還有總被停放車輛與集市小攤阻塞的狹窄人行道，只有在幾乎不絕於耳的摩托車轟鳴聲偶有間歇時，才能緩緩地駛上路面。

It was worth it, for two reasons. First, it gave me easy access to the unadulterated Balinese food sold at market stalls — a spicy jumble of mixed vegetables called serombotan, a luscious goat satay (no beef, since the vast majority of Bali, unlike the rest of Indonesia, is Hindu).

這麼做還是值得的，原因有兩點。首先，這讓我很方便地在集市小攤上買到了地道的巴厘島食物——辣味雜蔬serombotan，還有味道醇美的山羊肉沙爹（這裏沒有牛肉沙爹，因爲和印尼的其他地方不一樣，巴厘島的大部分人都是印度教徒）。

And, on the way back, drenched in sweat, I stopped to see a group of men scorching the hair off two slaughtered pigs and ended up with an invitation to spend the festival of Galungan with a new friend.

而且，在回來的路上，渾身被汗浸透的我，中途還停了下來，觀看一羣男人燒掉兩頭宰殺的肉豬身上的鬃毛，並在最後收到了一位新朋友的邀請，與他一同歡度加隆安節(Galungan)。

Three days and four nights is a ridiculously short stay for one’s first time on Bali. Ideally, I knew, getting away from the tourist crowd meant heading away from southern Bali’s two tourist epicenters: Kuta, which has a reputation as a depraved Cancun for young Australians; and Ubud, for those seeking the more spiritual Bali described in Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love” without straying too far from a Starbucks.

三天四夜的旅程，對於首次巴厘島之旅而言，實在短得可笑。我知道，在理論上，遠離熙攘的遊客，就意味着要離開巴厘島南部的兩處遊客聚集地。一處是庫塔海灘(Kuta)，在年輕的澳大利亞人當中被視作生活頹廢的坎昆(Cancun)；至於那些想要尋求伊麗莎白·吉爾伯特(Elizabeth Gilbert)在《一輩子做女孩》(Eat, Pray, Love)中所描繪的巴厘島風情，但又不想離星巴克(Starbucks)太遠的人，必去的地方則是烏布(Ubud)。

Instead, I stayed outside Ubud in the village of Kemenuh, which travelers visit for its woodcarving shops but not much else. Mangku himself was a retired woodcarver who became a village priest, which is what “Mangku” means.

而我卻留在了烏布外側的克美奴村莊裏，遊客們常來遊覽這裏的木雕工藝商店，但除此之外也就沒什麼了。師傅自己就是一位退休的木雕工人，現在則當上了鄉村牧師，這也是“師傅”這一稱謂的本意所在。

His family still runs a shop nearby, Sembahyang Wood Carvers, that ships its intricate, mesmerizing woodwork around the world, with the prices for some of the larger mahogany pieces stretching into tens of thousands of dollars.

他的家人仍在附近經營着一家商店“崇拜木雕”(Sembahyang Wood Carvers)，將店內那些工藝複雜的精美木雕運往世界各地，其中部分體型較大的紅木製品的價格，甚至能夠衝到數萬美元。

The guesthouse is a complex of elegant buildings in traditional Balinese orange brick and adorned with carved sandstone as elegant as the sculptures, with one big difference between the two family businesses: the price. My room cost 125,000 rupiah, or $9.41 at 13,279 rupiah to the dollar.

我所居住的賓館由幾棟造型優雅的建築構成，它們用傳統巴厘島風格的橘紅磚塊砌成，並以砂岩雕刻加以裝飾，其精美程度與雕像不相上下——這個家族的這兩項產業，最大區別就在於價格。我所住的房間費用爲12.5萬盧比，按1美元兌換13,279盧比折算，約合9.41美元。

But I had moved there only after spending a day in Ubud. On my first trip I had to at least see what the hype was about. (I did completely skip Kuta, with no regrets.)

但我是先在烏布呆了一天後纔到這裏來的。既然是我的首次巴厘島之旅，我好歹也得見識一下，炒作得天花亂墜的到底都是些什麼。（我倒確實直接略過了庫塔海灘，而且毫無遺憾。）

So, arriving after midnight on an indirect flight from Papua, I checked into the very pleasant Odah Ayu Guest House, just off Ubud’s main strip, where a tasteful room cost me 400,000 rupiah.

於是，我從巴布亞省(Papua)出發，經過轉機，在午夜過後抵達巴厘島，住進了環境宜人的鷗達阿玉賓館(Odah Ayu Guest House)，就在烏布的主要商業區對面，一間佈置雅緻的房間價格花了我40萬盧比。

The next day was packed full of attractions. First, the Puri Lukisan Museum (85,000 rupiah), which offers an introduction to Balinese art on lush grounds. Many paintings depicted scenes from Hindu epics I knew nothing about; I struggled to understand them but still found their elegant floral style absorbing.

我在第二天的行程裏，排滿了各式各樣的旅遊景點。首先是畫宮博物館(Puri Lukisan Museum)（門票售價8.5萬盧比），在一片綠意盎然的土地上初步瞭解了一下巴厘島的藝術。許多油畫作品中所描繪的風景，都出自我一無所知的印度教史詩，我極盡所能去理解當中的內涵，但還是覺得優雅的花草造型最爲迷人。

I paused at “Just Punishments in hell,” an intricately detailed depiction of “all the different kinds of punishments suffered by the dead that fit the misdeeds of their lives.” Characters were impaled on trees or partly submerged in a pool of flames; others were being pushed into dragons’ mouths or had their genitals set on fire.

我在《地獄裏的公正處罰》(Just Punishments in hell)前駐足片刻，這幅作品用十分複雜的細節，描繪了“亡者因自身生前罪行所遭受的各種不同類型的相應處罰”。畫中的角色有的被釘在樹上，有的被半埋在火盆裏，還有的正被送往巨龍的口中，或者正被灼燒着他們的生殖器。

Then it was on to Ibu Oka, renowned (as in, featured by Anthony Bourdain) for babi guleng, or roast suckling pig, for a 55,000-rupiah plate with meat so moist I’d call it swampy, doused with a peppery sauce and much ballyhooed pork skin that I found a bit too chewy. (I prefer my crackling a bit more, um, crackling.)

然後我去了Ibu Oka，這間小店專以babi guleng也就是烤乳豬聞名（美國大廚安東尼·波登(Anthony Bourdain)也對其盛讚有加），一盤售價5.5萬盧比，裏面的豬肉鬆軟多汁，被我戲稱爲“沼澤”，澆上胡椒醬，配搭很大程度上宣傳過度、在我看來有點太過難嚼的豬肉皮。（我更喜歡更脆一些的肉皮，嗯，脆脆的那種。）

Then there was the famed Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, which is on lovely temple grounds and certainly worth the 30,000 rupiah fee, especially if you’ve never before had monkeys eat bananas out of your hands.

接着則是大名鼎鼎的聖猴森林避難所(Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary)，它坐落在一片風景迷人的神廟之中，3萬盧比的票價絕對物有所值，尤其是你從來沒有餵過猴子吃你手裏的香蕉的話。

And I was intrigued by online raves about the Sari Organik Warung Bodag Maliah, depicted as an organic restaurant in a pristine location amid rice fields. It wasn’t quite as pristine as promised: A pedestrian (and motorbike) path ran through it, dotted with souvenir shops and cafes. I’d call them not so much rice fields as “Rice Fields,” framed as a destination for travelers. Few agricultural features I’ve seen have signs directing you toward them.

我也對網上衆人追捧的餐廳Sari Organik Warung Bodag Maliah興趣濃厚，據說這家有機餐廳位於稻田中的一處質樸之地。那裏其實並沒有宣傳所說的那麼質樸：一條步行道（也是摩托車道）從中穿過，路邊點綴着幾家紀念品商店和咖啡館。要我說，這裏的稻田並沒有多到可以被稱作“稻田”，最多就是一處面向遊客的旅遊景點罷了。而我很少看到哪些農業特色地點會有明確的標識引導你抵達目的地。

I get the appeal, but a week earlier, I had clambered over rice fields on Sulawesi for miles and miles, without a tourist in sight. In Papua, I had hiked hours to villages without seeing a single sign, let alone one directing you to the local sweet potato plantations.

我能瞭解當地所想要傳達的訴求，但就在一週前，我剛剛在蘇拉威西島(Sulawesi)上翻過了連綿數英里的稻田，途中可連一名遊客都沒見着。在巴布亞省，我曾徒步數小時前往不同村莊，路上連一個標誌都沒看到過，更別說能夠引導你前往當地紅薯種植園的標誌了。

Still, the cafe was lovely. My salad was so fresh it tasted as if I were picking it directly from the earth, and with some surprising ingredients, with greens like leaves of both guava and soursop. At 48,000 rupiah, it was a bargain.

儘管如此，這裏的咖啡館還是很可愛的。我點的沙拉用料新鮮，口感彷彿剛剛從地裏直接採摘回來的一般，裏面還用到了一些罕見的食材，例如番石榴葉、紅毛榴蓮葉等綠葉菜。一盤只需4.8萬盧比，實在是物美價廉。

As was my day in Ubud, which cost me, astonishingly, something like $20. But halfway through the day I paused and went to , the site I turn to for lodging not listed elsewhere, and found Kudesa. (I didn’t even find it on TripAdvisor.)

以上就是我在烏布的一天，總共竟然才只花了我20美元左右。但在那天中午，我一度暫停行程，訪問網站，試圖尋找一間在其他網站上看不到的住宿地點——我就是這樣找到的庫德薩民宿。（我甚至在TripAdvisor上都沒有看到過這家的信息。）

During my stay at Odah Ayu, I had met Komang, a member of the family that owns it; as I checked out, he offered to drive me to Kudesa. Thirty minutes later, we passed through a lavish carved gate and entered what looked like a palace or temple: buildings made of that orange brick, their doors shrouded in ornate sandstone carving. Komang was impressed. “This is maybe rich family,” he said.

暫住鷗達阿玉期間，我認識了克曼(Komang)，他是這家旅館主人家族的一員；當我退房時，他提出願意開車送我到庫德薩民宿。30分鐘後，我們穿過一扇奢華的雕花大門，進入了一處仿若宮殿又像是神廟的地方：橘紅色磚塊砌成的建築物，門扇上包着一層華美無比的砂岩雕刻。這讓克曼眼界大開。“這戶人家大概很有錢，”他說。

Perhaps, but one that charges less than $10 for a single. The place had undergone an expansion recently, and now included a handful of fancy-looking rooms along a reverse infinity pool. (That’s my new term for when the infinity edge points in the wrong direction — to the rooms themselves).

或許，但是單人間的收費也纔不到10美元而已。這裏不久前剛剛經過擴修，如今擁有好幾間設計精美的客房，沿着一座反向無邊緣設計的泳池一路排開。（這是我創造的一個新名詞，指稱那些池邊朝向一反常態，朝着客房一側的無邊緣泳池。）

I never got to see my single; the place was nearly empty, so I was upgraded to one of the older doubles (regular price, 180,000 rupiah.) It was a no-nonsense room, with a single sheet and blanket on the bed, an air-conditioner that leaked, and acoustics that allowed me to diagnose sleep apnea in the guest next door. Considering the elegant surroundings (and the dinner they served me by the pool the next night, no charge), it was still a deal.

我從頭到尾都無緣得見我預訂的那間單人間；這間民宿在當時幾乎空無一人，於是我直接被升等到了一間年頭更久的雙人間（常規標價爲18萬盧比）。這間客房的狀態簡直寫滿了故事：牀上鋪的是單人被和毯子，空調在漏水，隔音效果足以讓我診斷出隔壁客人是否患有睡眠呼吸暫停中止症。考慮到優雅別緻的周邊環境（還有他們次日晚上爲我安排的池邊晚餐，免費的喲），我覺得還可以接受。

That dinner was lovely, a standard plate of rice, meat and spicy homemade sambal, but did not compare to that first night I ate at the market, after parking my bike among dozens of scooters.

那頓晚餐還算開心，一客標準份量的米飯、肉和辣口的自制叄巴醬，但是跟我第一天晚上將自行車停在一堆小綿羊裏後在集市上吃的那頓，還是沒法比。

No taxis wait at the market, making it difficult for travelers to get there on their own, and English is a rarity, so those not willing to get on two wheels may wish to consider a tour offered by the Casa Luna cooking school for 400,000 rupiah to tame the chaos and choose the right dishes.

集市附近沒有候客的出租車，很不方便遊客自己前往，會講英語的人也很少，因此那些無意自己騎車出行的遊客，不妨考慮參加烹飪學校Casa Luna舉辦的美食遊，收費40萬盧比，幫你撫平所有混亂，選擇萬無一失的佳餚。

I tried a more D.I.Y. solution. On the ride over from Ubud, I asked Komang to list a few Balinese dishes I should try. He gave me three: serombotan, betutu and sate langwan. I jotted them down (having no idea what they were) then asked him how to say “Where is the most delicious _________?” in Indonesian. “Di mana ________ yang enak?” was his suggestion. He also gave me the phrase in Balinese, just in case.

我則嘗試了一種更爲自力更生的辦法。在駕車前往烏布的路上，我讓克曼爲我推薦幾道必嘗佳餚。他對我說了三道：serombotan、betutu和sate langwan。我用筆記了下來（但對於這些到底是什麼東西毫無頭緒），然後問他“哪裏有最好吃的_________？”用印尼語怎麼說。他教導我說：“Di mana ________ yang enak?”他還教了我一句巴釐語，以防我萬一有用得着的時候。

It worked brilliantly. First, I tried asking for the serombotan, and was pointed to a woman standing at a no-name cart behind an array of plates and bowls loaded with vegetables, bean sprouts, soybeans and more. She piled them all together for me, dashed on a combustible sauce and charged me 5,000 rupiah, a delicious, crunchy, tongue-numbing bargain.

這句話真是派上大用場了。我先是試着問了一下serombotan，結果被指向了站在一輛無名推車旁的女人，她置身在一堆碗盤的後面，裏面裝着蔬菜、豆芽、黃豆還有許多其他的東西。她將所有這些東西堆成一盤，擺在我的面前，澆上一種可燃的醬料，然後收了我5,000盧比，真是一道香脆美味、令人舌頭髮麻的平民美食。

Next, two other women argued before sending me to Warung Carmayani for betutu, slow-roasted poultry (chicken, in this case) with rice, for 22,000 rupiah. Nice, but rather bland.

接着，另外兩位女士在送我前往Warung Carmayani品嚐betutu前爭論了一番，這道美食是用家禽（這裏用的是雞）慢慢烤制而成，配上米飯，一客要價2.2萬盧比。味道不錯，但還是平淡無奇了些。

Finally, sate langwan (which turned out to be a fish satay) was sold out. So I compromised at a stand labeled Sate Kambing Juprianto, which specialized in goat satay. A man tossed 10 two-bite sticks of meat over glowing coals and whipped together a rich, surprisingly savory peanut sauce for me on the spot for 20,000 rupiah. I finished it off with some es campur, shaved ice and crazily colorful gelatins, fruit and coconut milk for an additional 6,000 rupiah.

最後是sate langwan（似乎就是一種魚肉沙爹），但是店裏賣完了。於是我做出了妥協，改去了一間標着“Sate Kambing Juprianto”，專賣山羊肉沙爹的小攤。一個男人當場將10塊兩口大小的肉塊丟到灼熱的木炭上方，然後與一種厚重粘稠但風味極佳的花生醬攪拌在一起，總共收了我2萬盧比。最後，我又另外花了6,000盧比，點了一份es campur，這是一種澆有一堆五顏六色的明膠啫哩、水果切塊和椰奶的刨冰。

On the way back, in Blahbatuh, the village before Kemenuh, I saw a group gathered around the slaughtered pigs and pulled over.

返回賓館的途中，我在克美奴前面的一個村莊布拉巴度(Blahbatuh)看到一羣人圍着幾頭宰殺完畢的豬，便將車靠邊停了下來。

“Where are you from?” boomed a voice.

“你是從哪兒來的？”一道嗓門震天響的聲音問道。

I immediately took a liking to Widi, perhaps in part because he reminded me, in both looks and boisterously welcoming manner, of a friend in New York. He explained that he and a few others had killed two pigs to divide among his extended family, to be used in dishes for Galungan, during which ancestral spirits are believed to visit.

我立刻就喜歡上了威迪(Widi)，或許有部分原因是因爲，無論他的樣貌還是他熱情待人的方式，都讓我想起了我在紐約的一位朋友。他向我解釋道，他和其他幾個人剛剛宰了兩頭豬，準備分給他的家族親戚們，用來製作成菜餚，爲當地人民認爲會有祖先魂魄來訪的加隆安節做準備。

He invited me over the next morning for a breakfast of lawar, made of minced pork and vegetables and grated coconut, jumbled together with a spicy sambal.

他邀請我在次日清晨與他共進一種名爲lawar的早餐，這道菜餚用切碎的豬肉和蔬菜混合椰絲，再拌上一種辣口的叄巴醬製成。

I had planned a tour of island temples and other attractions with Mank Jay, a driver and guide who was Mangku’s nephew, so I stopped by early and met Widi’s family, who lived in a traditionally structured family compound.

我已經計劃好，要與師傅的外甥，司機兼導遊曼克·傑(Mank Jay)，結伴遊覽島上的神廟與其他景點，於是我早早拜訪，見到了威迪一家，一個擁有着傳統家族結構的大家庭。

I had read that every Hindu family in Bali had its own temple, or sanggah, but I hadn’t imagined an entire section devoted to shrines representing different manifestations of the gods and the family’s ancestors. Offerings of rice and flowers had been laid in front of each; Widi himself prays there three times a day when he can, two times when he is working as a bus driver.

我曾經在書上讀到過，巴厘島上的每一個印度教家庭都擁有自己的神廟，這在當地的語言裏叫作sanggah，但是我完全想象不到，他們會開闢出一整塊區域來陳設神龕，裏面供奉着不同的神靈及家族祖先們的化身。每一尊神像前，都擺放着米飯和鮮花作爲祭品；威迪自己在條件允許的情況下，每天會在這裏拜上三次，做大巴司機的時候則是一天兩次。

I was invited back to spend the first day of Galungan with Widi’s family (more on that next week). But that day I still had my tour with Jay, for which he charged 600,000 rupiah, including gas. You may find others willing to do it for 400,000 or 500,000, but it’s worth extra for a guide you like, and I recommend Jay (62-812-3739-8422).

我受邀在加隆安節當天再次來訪，與威迪全家共度佳節首日（下週再講述更多詳情）。但是那一天我也已經計劃好，要與傑一同出遊，這趟行程傑總共收我60萬盧比，包括汽車的油費。你或許發現其他人通常只願意出到40萬或50萬盧比，但能請到自己喜歡的導遊，多花點錢也是值得的，在此我要強烈推薦一下傑（62-812-3739-8422）。

We motored around to numerous temples and historic spots, the highlight of which was Kerta Gosa, a partly restored complex that had served as a royal home and hall of justice for the Balinese king. Two elegant, typically Balinese buildings remain, one set dramatically in the middle of a pond, as if it were a ship connected to the shore by a sculpture-lined gangplank.

我們開着汽車，參觀了大量的帝廟與古蹟，其中值得一提的是司法亭(Kerta Gosa)，這座經過部分修繕的建造原本是一處皇家住宅，也是巴厘島國王主持公義的審判大廳。這裏還保留着兩棟造型優雅、典型的巴厘島風格建築，一棟引人注目地矗立在池塘中央，有如一艘輪船停泊在此，靠一塊邊緣雕刻着花紋的跳板，與池岸相連。

Inside, the ceilings are painted with mesmerizing depictions of the Hindu epics, most notably the Bhima Swarga story, in which a man enters the underworld to rescue his parents. In a scene now familiar to me, sinners were depicted being punished in hell — in this version, for example, hanging from trees over a pit of fire as rats gnawed on the ropes.

建築內部，天花板上描繪着引人入勝的印度教史詩畫卷，最值得注意的是怖軍天堂(Bhima Swarga)的故事，講述了一個男人進入冥界營救自己父母。這個場景我倒有些熟悉，描繪的就是罪人們在地獄中受罰的情景——譬如在這裏，就是被繩索吊在樹上，下方是一個火坑，上面則有老鼠在啃噬着繩索。

“We believe in karma,” Jay said. “When you do a bad thing in your life, and the gods call you, your time is up. And then you see what they’re going to do to you.”

“我們相信因果報應。”傑說，“如果你在活着的時候做了壞事，當神靈召喚你的時候，你的大限就到了。然後你就會看到你以前的作爲帶給你的報應。”

I had asked Jay if there was a traditional rural village we could visit to get away from the temples and monuments. So he took me to Penglipuran, a beautiful village with an odd twist.

我曾經問過傑，有沒有什麼傳統的鄉村村落可以參觀，讓我們擺脫那些神廟和紀念碑的。於是他帶我去了彭力布南(Penglipuran)，一處美麗又帶着幾分古怪的村莊。

Along its main street of beautifully laid-out stone, families live in homes that date back centuries to pre-Hindu Bali. One catch: You pay 15,000 rupiah at the ticket booth to enter, where you are handed a scrap of paper with a number, referring to the house you have been assigned to visit.

在用石頭精心鋪就的大路兩旁，村民們所居住的房屋可以一直上溯到幾個世紀以前，印度教尚未進入巴厘島的時期。有一點要注意：在售票處支付1.5萬盧比的入村費，你會拿到一張寫有號碼的紙片，指定一棟房屋供你遊覽。

The houses and people were lovely, but it felt as if I had entered a human zoo that was an apt metaphor for the island as a whole, particularly the more touristed parts: traditional families living traditional ways, as travelers pay to wander through their lives.

這裏的房屋和村民都很可愛，但是會給我一種誤入了某間人類動物園的感覺，就這座島而言，這的確是個十分恰當的比喻，尤其是那些十分旅遊化的部分——這裏的傳統家庭沿襲着傳統的生活方式，而遊客們付費入場四處參觀。