聖羅蘭任命新任創意總監 YSL picks Anthony Vaccarello as creative director

Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello has been chosen as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, with one of the world’s best-known fashion brands Moving quickly to replace Hedi Slimane.

比利時設計師安東尼•瓦卡萊洛(Anthony Vaccarello)已確定出任伊夫•聖羅蘭(Yves Saint Laurent)的創意總監，這家全球知名時裝品牌快速爲艾迪•斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)找到了繼任者。

The appointment comes just four days after the departure of Mr Slimane, who shook up a brand founded more than 50 years ago, injecting pace and grunge aesthetic to great commercial success.

斯理曼離職僅4天后，聖羅蘭就宣佈了這一任命。斯理曼對這一創立50多年的品牌作出了劇烈改變，爲其注入節奏感和垃圾美學，令聖羅蘭獲得了巨大的商業成功。

Yves Saint Laurent’s French parent, Kering, hailed the arrival of Mr Vaccarello, who has won fans in the fashion world thanks to his careful balance of minimalism and contemporary sex appeal.

伊夫•聖羅蘭的法國母公司開雲集團(Kering)對瓦卡萊洛的到來表示熱烈歡迎。這位新任總監以其對極簡主義和當代性感的精準平衡，贏得了時尚界的追捧。

Francesca Bellettini, president and chief executive of the fashion house, said on Monday: “His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison [he] impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity”.

聖羅蘭總裁兼首席執行官弗朗西斯卡•貝萊蒂尼(Francesca Bellettini)在週一表示：“他的現代、純粹的美學理念契合了我們公司的定位。他完美地平衡了女性的性感和男性的銳利這兩大元素。”

François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and chief executive, described 36-year-old Mr Vaccarello as “a vivid and young force”.

開雲集團董事長兼首席執行官佛朗索瓦•亨利•皮諾特(François-Henri Pinaul)稱36歲的瓦卡萊洛是一股“年輕活力”。

The Belgian designer, who was previously at Italian brand Versus Versace, is to present his first collection for YSL in October during the Paris Spring-Summer 2017 fashion week.

安東尼•瓦卡萊洛此前效力於意大利品牌範思哲(Versus，Versace)。這位比利時設計師的首場聖羅蘭時裝展將於今年10月份的2017春夏巴黎時裝週期間舉行。

Mr Vaccarello faces a challenge to continue the extraordinary success achieved under his predecessor. Revenues between 2011 and last year saw a compound average growth rate of 29 per cent across all categories and regions.

瓦卡萊洛面對着一個挑戰，他要延續前任所取得的非凡成就。2011年至2015年間，聖羅蘭旗下所有產品全球營收復合增長率達到29%。

The brand also notched up its highest operating margin during the second half of last year. YSL accounts for 12 per cent of Kering’s luxury sales.

去年下半年，聖羅蘭還創下最高營業利潤率，其銷售額佔開雲集團奢侈品銷售的12%。

Last week, when Kering confirmed Mr Slimane’s exit, putting an end to months of speculation about his possible departure, some luxury analysts raised red flags.

開雲集團於上週確認斯理曼的離開，爲幾個月來圍繞其離職的猜測畫上了一個句號。部分奢侈品分析師對此發出了預警。

“This is clearly a negative,” said Luca Solca, luxury analyst at Exane BNP Paribas, at the time. “Saint Laurent is the fastest-growing brand in the Kering portfolio . . . Slimane found the sweet spot.”

法國巴黎銀行證券部(Exane BNP Paribas)奢侈品分析師盧卡•索爾卡(Luca Solca)當時表示：“這顯然是個負面消息。聖羅蘭是開雲集團投資組合裏增長最快的品牌……斯理曼找到了最佳定位。”